Ohlins forks

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control_67 · #1 Post by **control_67** » Mon Jun 18, 2012 3:53 pm

I just won a set of forks on eBay, if they are as described they've done 200 miles and I got them for under £400. I know I'll need th correct yokes and handlebars (although I have heard that you can use sleeves in the top yoke/bars). Will I need anything else for the conversion? I see there are 'Ohlins' caliper bolts available that are cap head rather than hex. Are these needed or can I use normal caliper bolts? Can I use the standard spindle? I'll be sticking with the brembo wheels until I can find a pair of Oz for a realistic (not eBay) price.

Cheers all

D-Rider · #2 Post by **D-Rider** » Mon Jun 18, 2012 4:44 pm

control_67 wrote:I just won a set of forks on eBay, if they are as described they've done 200 miles and I got them for under £400. I know I'll need th correct yokes and handlebars (although I have heard that you can use sleeves in the top yoke/bars). Will I need anything else for the conversion? I see there are 'Ohlins' caliper bolts available that are cap head rather than hex. Are these needed or can I use normal caliper bolts? Can I use the standard spindle? I'll be sticking with the brembo wheels until I can find a pair of Oz for a realistic (not eBay) price.

Cheers all

I'm presuming these are not radial brake versions

Anyway, that's a bargain price.

You do need the calliper bolts as they fit into recesses - the normal hex heads don't fit.

Standard spindle is fine.

OZ wheels - ebay prices are your guide ..... on a very very lucky day you might get a pair for a bit over £400 but anywhere up to £800 is not uncommon these days. Split the difference and you get the likely budget guide.

I've not shimmed the yokes on mine as I have fitted Gen 2 ohlins yokes (only because the top yoke looks nicer) but I have shimmed the bars

control_67 · #3 Post by **control_67** » Mon Jun 18, 2012 5:15 pm

Cool thanks, I guess there's no issue with lockstops or ignition barrel as they are designed to fit the RSV that shares is yoke with the falco then.

Is the gen 2 top yoke the one that has cut outs? Did you make your shims or buy them?

Pretty excited about getting a little more Swedish gold on the bird.

D-Rider · #4 Post by **D-Rider** » Mon Jun 18, 2012 7:28 pm

The Gen 2 lock stops are different but I've had no trouble. The ignition switch is a different matter - spacers needed to line it up with the hole, then something to fill the gap in the hole as the gen2 bikes have an immobiliser that makes their ignition switch fatter (a cunning selection of O-rings superglued together did the job for me) and then the steering lock pin needs lengthening a tad to work (I drilled and tapped it and loctited a bolt in there - job done - works well)

Don't mix gen1 top and bottom yokes - the offset is about 1.5 mm different. It is physically possible to force them to fit but really not recommended!

blinkey501 · #5 Post by **blinkey501** » Mon Jun 18, 2012 7:43 pm

control_67 wrote:Cool thanks, .

Is the gen 2 top yoke the one that has cut outs? Did you make your shims or buy them?

I saw the top yolks when i visited andy a couple of months ago.
I knew i had seen the results of his efforts before.
Scroll through these pictures and you will see..........
https://www.ridersite.com/viewtopic.php?t=7003

D-Rider · #6 Post by **D-Rider** » Mon Jun 18, 2012 8:12 pm

control_67 wrote:Cool thanks, .

Is the gen 2 top yoke the one that has cut outs? Did you make your shims or buy them?

Indeed the Gen 2 yokes have the holes .... and very nice absences of anything are they too (as Jay has linked in the pics)

I made the shims for the clipons - basically a 2mm difference in diameter so some 1mm ally did the job.

blinkey501 wrote:I saw the top yolks when i visited andy a couple of months ago.

My memory's going - I must have forgotten that I served you eggs

control_67 · #7 Post by **control_67** » Mon Jun 18, 2012 8:24 pm

Cool, just sourced a set of gen 1 yokes and clipons for £150. Compared to eBay prices that's an awesome deal, but how does it compare to real world prices? Just waiting on pics of them from the seller, he's breaking a 2000 model so I can ask if he's got any other useful parts if anyone wants

SimonDk · #8 Post by **SimonDk** » Mon Jun 18, 2012 8:51 pm

breaking a 2000 model so I can ask if he's got any other useful parts

A 2000 model what? .. I assume 'Falco', but what's with ohlins forks then (mod?). .. Aaaanyway: Rear seat pad, please.

control_67 · #9 Post by **control_67** » Mon Jun 18, 2012 8:56 pm

SimonDk wrote:
breaking a 2000 model so I can ask if he's got any other useful parts
A 2000 model what? .. I assume 'Falco', but what's with ohlins forks then (mod?). .. Aaaanyway: Rear seat pad, please.

2000 RSV-R, so potentially an ohlins shock with the linkage, maybe oz wheels, swingarm etc

blinkey501 · #10 Post by **blinkey501** » Mon Jun 18, 2012 11:50 pm

control_67 wrote:
SimonDk wrote:
breaking a 2000 model so I can ask if he's got any other useful parts
A 2000 model what? .. I assume 'Falco', but what's with ohlins forks then (mod?). .. Aaaanyway: Rear seat pad, please.
2000 RSV-R, so potentially an ohlins shock with the linkage, maybe oz wheels, swingarm etc

Mmmm you say a 2000 mille r. If the shock code is AP8230 then it will also have ohlins racing around the bottom ring of the shock...
This shock will fit straight into the falco using the origional triangles
If it has the code AP8240 then the dog bone and tringles will be required also...

blinkey501 · #11 Post by **blinkey501** » Mon Jun 18, 2012 11:55 pm

D-Rider wrote:
control_67 wrote:Cool thanks, .

Is the gen 2 top yoke the one that has cut outs? Did you make your shims or buy them?

Indeed the Gen 2 yokes have the holes .... and very nice absences of anything are they too (as Jay has linked in the pics)

I made the shims for the clipons - basically a 2mm difference in diameter so some 1mm ally did the job.

blinkey501 wrote:I saw the top yolks when i visited andy a couple of months ago.
My memory's going - I must have forgotten that I served you eggs

SimonDk · #12 Post by **SimonDk** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 5:56 am

AP8230 then it will also have ohlins racing around the bottom ring of the shock... This shock will fit straight into the falco using the origional triangles
If it has the code AP8240 then the dog bone and tringles will be required

Forgot about the shock; I could be interested if the price is attractive. TIA.

Falcopops · #13 Post by **Falcopops** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 6:11 am

be aware that the clap torques on the ohlins forks is less than that for the O/E ones.

There have been instances where the axle clamps have sheared due to overtightening. Also the triple clamps need to be less tight due to the lighter construction of the fork tubes.

Look for the torque settings for the Ohlins equipped RSVs.

I too have shimmed the clipons, but I'd be wary of shimming the triple clamps the whole weight of you, the bike and bumps will be trying to dislodge them and I wouldn't want to experience a front end failure at any speed.

control_67 · #14 Post by **control_67** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 9:20 am

blinkey501 wrote:
control_67 wrote:
SimonDk wrote:
breaking a 2000 model so I can ask if he's got any other useful parts
A 2000 model what? .. I assume 'Falco', but what's with ohlins forks then (mod?). .. Aaaanyway: Rear seat pad, please.
2000 RSV-R, so potentially an ohlins shock with the linkage, maybe oz wheels, swingarm etc
Mmmm you say a 2000 mille r. If the shock code is AP8230 then it will also have ohlins racing around the bottom ring of the shock...
This shock will fit straight into the falco using the origional triangles
If it has the code AP8240 then the dog bone and tringles will be required also...

I managed to find an 8230 when I first got the falco, it made such a massive difference to the feel of the bike. I've emailed him back to see if he has any rear shocks (he's breaking two at the moment) or any Oz wheels. I'll report back with prices later

D-Rider · #15 Post by **D-Rider** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 9:27 am

Falcopops wrote:be aware that the clap torques on the ohlins forks is less than that for the O/E ones.

There have been instances where the axle clamps have sheared due to overtightening. Also the triple clamps need to be less tight due to the lighter construction of the fork tubes.

Look for the torque settings for the Ohlins equipped RSVs.

I too have shimmed the clipons, but I'd be wary of shimming the triple clamps the whole weight of you, the bike and bumps will be trying to dislodge them and I wouldn't want to experience a front end failure at any speed.

Definitely not something to overtorque. The radial brake forks are the ones most prone to this.
I seem to remember that the manual gives the same torque settings for conventional brake ohlins forks as for the marzocchi/showa forks .... but please check yourself !
I'm always very cautious when tightening mine

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