Axone header take-off points

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Nooj · #1 Post by **Nooj** » Sat Jun 16, 2012 9:56 am

Trying to sort some out on my Renegade headers, what's the best way to do it?

Are they things in their own right, or are they bits of bar that are welded on, then drilled and tapped in situe?

Also, exactly what thread are they? 1/8 BSP, but am I correct in thinking they are tapered? And where do I get the grub screws/plugs for them? Is it just the plugs that are tapered? Can't get my head round all these pre-historic plumbing fittings

#2 Post by **Kwackerz** » Sat Jun 16, 2012 2:13 pm

Can you post a pic of the offending articles, Nooj?

I can't remember there being a stock of 'widgets' in the back workshop and I wouldnt be surprised if they were hand built items by Mark or Ozzy. Gio might remember, he's spent enough time down at West Kingsdown..

Nooj · #3 Post by **Nooj** » Sat Jun 16, 2012 10:13 pm

Ummmmmm.......Can't take pictures of them, because I don't have any of them.

#4 Post by **Kwackerz** » Sat Jun 16, 2012 11:08 pm

Ah ok, thought you had damaged ones on rene headers. ISWYM now.. and explains why I cant remember any there!

Nooj · #5 Post by **Nooj** » Sun Jun 17, 2012 9:36 am

Reluctant to take the headers into a local engineer as there's no guarantee they'll put them in the right place. May post them up to Griff for convenience.

#6 Post by **Kwackerz** » Sun Jun 17, 2012 5:58 pm

Yup, I would say that is the safest option.

How're you going to do it? Cut from a standard header and weld onto the renes or fabricate new ones?

Falcopops · #7 Post by **Falcopops** » Mon Jun 18, 2012 3:29 am

From what I could see of mine at theweekend, you could just get a boss welded onto the header. The thread is some sort of pipe specific thing, I had to replace a lost bung a long time back and the local guy (knew everything there was to know about nuts, bolts and screws) immediately identified the thread and provided me with tapered grub screws as replacements and warned not to overtighten and split the boss, the boss isn't tapered.

Geting them in the right place shouldn't be too hard. The front has to line up with the hole in the plastic guard between the radiators, so use that to make a mark. You have a bit of latitude at the rear given the length of pipe available that is accessible, but I'd be trying to get them about the same distance from the head to remove that as a source of variation in readings.

paddyz1 · #8 Post by **paddyz1** » Mon Jun 18, 2012 6:00 am

Are these the same size as lamda fittings. You could go to a scrappy and hacksaw them out of a scrap car.

blinkey501 · #9 Post by **blinkey501** » Mon Jun 18, 2012 8:28 am

All air line fittings are BSP sizes ie quarter BSP or half inch etc.
Lambda sensor mounts on the exsausts are a different thing all togeather.
John a chap i work with has a hairdressers car. A bright red MGF and the nut that was welded to his exsaust for the lambda sensor, the threads were shagged.
He cut the old nut off and took it to BAPP and they measured the nut and gave him a replacement to weld back on.
It was a metric thread, usually they come in sizes of 8-10-12-16 and 20 respectively.
The nut they gave him was M18