Rear Brake Caliper Bleeding

Message

Falcoholic · #1 Post by **Falcoholic** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 9:30 am

After fitting the new HEL braided hoses I'm impressed by the increased amount of "feel" I now have in the front brakes however I just can't seem to get the rear caliper to bleed properly. There is an awful lot of travel in the brake lever and it doesn't seem to have much braking effect. It was never that great before and I think Falco's are fairly notorious for having a measly back brake. I use mine quite a lot on slower riding and when stopped at the lights etc and although it was in tolerance for the MOT tester to pass it I just don't feel it's as good as it was before I changed the hose.
Is there a secret to bleeding it other than taking the caliper off and suspending it from the garage roof for a day or two to let the air in it rise to the bleed nipple before bleeding it again? I also thought about pushing the pistons back in with the reservoir cap off to force the air back that way.
Any suggestions?

EEEP · #2 Post by **EEEP** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 9:59 am

Sorry cant be of help, I am about to do the front and rear with the Hel lines. So any info would also help me, Were there any things to watch out for on the front lines?

EEEP

Falco9 · #3 Post by **Falco9** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 10:05 am

Just swapped my hoses to HEL last week, and the rear is a pig to bleed that's for sure

. I found that just moving the caliper around (upside down etc..) whilst pumping (steady!) the brake pedal worked very well for me.

You can feel the resistance when the caliper is in the right position. Keep moving it around as you move the brake pedal. Took me about 5 -10 minutes and she worked fine. Better ask Gio from now on though.

F9

Gio · #4 Post by **Gio** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 4:31 pm

Falco9 wrote:Just swapped my hoses to HEL last week, and the rear is a pig to bleed that's for sure . I found that just moving the caliper around (upside down etc..) whilst pumping (steady!) the brake pedal worked very well for me.

You can feel the resistance when the caliper is in the right position. Keep moving it around as you move the brake pedal. Took me about 5 -10 minutes and she worked fine. Better ask Gio from now on though.

F9

That back brake is very good

Falken · #5 Post by **Falken** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 6:51 pm

Had a similar problem with a ZZR600 once.
Try taking the caliper off and putting something between the pads, then get the bleed nipple (love that word) to the top so the air will rise.
They should then bleed OK

GregD-UK · #6 Post by **GregD-UK** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 9:36 pm

Yeap,

I have just done what falken suggested today! Put a screwdriver in between the pads, took off caliper and raised it above the position as high as possible. Then pump 4 or 5 times holf down pedal, open nipple then shut, then release pedal, done a couple of times, job done

U mean I am not the only guy that uses the back brake, amazing

Warranty yeah rite!

Gio · #7 Post by **Gio** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 9:39 pm

The best way of course is a vaccuum pump and do it from the calipers up.

I've done several brake systems this way and even on a dual system (like my blackbirds was) its never taken more than an hour.

Pierre · #8 Post by **Pierre** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 11:29 pm

I couldnt bleed my back brake on my trackbike. I could hear air being sucked into where the plunger goes so assumed the seal had gone.

Easiest fix i found was to take the pedal, caliper, hose, everthing off and chuck it in the parts bin. Saved about 1/2lb

edit: forgot to say when bleeding the front brakes remember theres a nipple on the lever. Only a plonker would forget that and pump about 3 pints though before realising

Viking · #9 Post by **Viking** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 11:39 pm

I have found that using a large syringe connected to the bleed nipple creates a useful amount of suction to pull any air out quickly.

Alternatively, fill the syringe with brake fluid and push it into the caliper via the bleed nipple - works a treat, as it pushes all the air up the lines into the master cylinder and then the fluid reservoir.

Falken · #10 Post by **Falken** » Thu Mar 29, 2007 10:58 am

Pleased it worked GregD-UK