Brake Hoses - Which ones
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Brake Hoses - Which ones
Had my first decent run on the bike yesterday, running round the backroads of west Tyne valley and one thing struck me, the front brakes are not what I expected them to be.
My last bike a Monster 620 had exactly the same brakes 320mm twinpot Brembos and they stopped dead if required on one finger, I know the weight difference probably has something to do with that and it was new at the time, so I wanted to ask if braided hose is the difference.
There are three main ones out there:
Goodridge
HEL
Venhill
All claim the same things but the Venhill make a noise about having swivel unions making fitting easier.
Can anyone tell me from experience that new hoses make that much difference.
My last bike a Monster 620 had exactly the same brakes 320mm twinpot Brembos and they stopped dead if required on one finger, I know the weight difference probably has something to do with that and it was new at the time, so I wanted to ask if braided hose is the difference.
There are three main ones out there:
Goodridge
HEL
Venhill
All claim the same things but the Venhill make a noise about having swivel unions making fitting easier.
Can anyone tell me from experience that new hoses make that much difference.
The standard hoses on the Falco might not be braided but are freudenburg reinforced items and are very good.
I have changed to Hel at the front and for the clutch (using the sizeable forum discount). The reason I changed was that I fitted 4-piston callipers and radial master cylinders for which the banjo positioning and angles were quite different.
TBH I don't think it worth junking the standard freudenburg items unless you need to fit to different braking components or that the standard items have aged and should be replaced.
When I had the standard parts on there (callipers, master cylinder etc) the braking had deteriorated. I cleaned up the pistons on the callipers, replaced and bled the fluid and they were brilliant again. So much so that when I upgraded things I was quite disappointed.
I think people often compare a tired old system with a brand new setup and find it brilliant - whereas they'd get most of the improvement by servicing what they've got.
I have changed to Hel at the front and for the clutch (using the sizeable forum discount). The reason I changed was that I fitted 4-piston callipers and radial master cylinders for which the banjo positioning and angles were quite different.
TBH I don't think it worth junking the standard freudenburg items unless you need to fit to different braking components or that the standard items have aged and should be replaced.
When I had the standard parts on there (callipers, master cylinder etc) the braking had deteriorated. I cleaned up the pistons on the callipers, replaced and bled the fluid and they were brilliant again. So much so that when I upgraded things I was quite disappointed.
I think people often compare a tired old system with a brand new setup and find it brilliant - whereas they'd get most of the improvement by servicing what they've got.
“Scientists investigate that which already is. Engineers create that which has never been.”
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- Aladinsaneuk
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I changed to hel twin line braided for the frOnt brake lines as well - mainly because I could !
May I suggest you start by reading the bleeding the hydraulics thread in the technical section? Do that first
May I suggest you start by reading the bleeding the hydraulics thread in the technical section? Do that first
Let's face it, you wouldn't go to a nurse to get good advice on a problem with a Falco - you'd choose an Engineer or a mechanic...
- mangocrazy
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I'd agree with all of the above. If you go the braided hose route, make sure you get all stainless fittings. I've got HEL, but others are equally good. Steel braided hose is steel braided hose from any supplier.
It might also be worth checking your pads. If they've glazed through lack of use (or over-use, but that's unlikely), then the brakes will feel very wooden. I bought a secondhand Ducati years ago and the previous owner had been over-careful with it. I had to really smoke the brakes to get them working as they should. Check the pads and look for glazing (very shiny pad surface).
While the pads are out very gently (VERY GENTLY!) pump the brake lever to push the pistons out a bit. Inspect the pistons for corrosion and note whether any pistons are sticking. That should give you a starter for ten.
The overall condition of the bike should give you a clue. Yours looks absolutely mint, so I doubt you're suffering from corroded pistons, more from lack of use?
It might also be worth checking your pads. If they've glazed through lack of use (or over-use, but that's unlikely), then the brakes will feel very wooden. I bought a secondhand Ducati years ago and the previous owner had been over-careful with it. I had to really smoke the brakes to get them working as they should. Check the pads and look for glazing (very shiny pad surface).
While the pads are out very gently (VERY GENTLY!) pump the brake lever to push the pistons out a bit. Inspect the pistons for corrosion and note whether any pistons are sticking. That should give you a starter for ten.
The overall condition of the bike should give you a clue. Yours looks absolutely mint, so I doubt you're suffering from corroded pistons, more from lack of use?
Re: Brake Hoses - Which ones
Tonyunn wrote:Had my first decent run on the bike yesterday, running round the backroads of west Tyne valley and one thing struck me, the front brakes are not what I expected them to be.
i find mine the same there not inspirational i. fitted ebc/hh pads cleaned them all .new fluid better but ! . i found hell lines improved the feel (not lots but i could tell the difference) as d-rider points out the original lines are good BUT they are 10 years old . my brakes have just got worse !!
Ive fitted eix type plugs and a griff air box mod![]()
i have a pair of 4 pad type calipers, the pistons in these are all the same diameter so poss i bit more power and the initial better (more edges)
THE SNAG i have lost the pins and springs !!! pins OK found them, but cannot find the retaining springs (or remember what they looked like)
any sugestions![]()
dave
red and black v twin
Indeed - I doubt they are corroded but may have a build up of road crud/brake dust that impairs their movement.mangocrazy wrote: While the pads are out very gently (VERY GENTLY!) pump the brake lever to push the pistons out a bit. Inspect the pistons for corrosion and note whether any pistons are sticking. That should give you a starter for ten.
The overall condition of the bike should give you a clue. Yours looks absolutely mint, so I doubt you're suffering from corroded pistons, more from lack of use?
While you have them pumped out a bit (carefully like mango says ... you don't want to go too far), it's a good idea to attack them with some brake cleaner.
Actually, the OE pads are Toshiba (yes that surprised me too!)Tonyunn wrote:Cheers for that, I will go down the line of new (Brembo) pads as I looked at them and they do seem glazed and a bit thin.
“Scientists investigate that which already is. Engineers create that which has never been.”
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- mangocrazy
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I have goodridge hoses on the front and a hell on the rear. brake pads are goldfren sintered allround with wavy disks.
The standard calipers will never be brilliant, i probably use engine braking more than i do the front brake. Remember to check the rotors on the disk, when they get full of crud they can lead to feedback on the lever that is similar to warped disks.
Dale
The standard calipers will never be brilliant, i probably use engine braking more than i do the front brake. Remember to check the rotors on the disk, when they get full of crud they can lead to feedback on the lever that is similar to warped disks.
Dale
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