Difficulty finding Neutral!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Blackranger68]

Not long ago I bought a falco, havent rid it that much as I have been doing some servicing work on it ie new tyres sprocket chain front forks rebuild and the latest a new 14amp battery.

Pleased with my work I took my falco out for a spin this evening only to find that whilst stationary at traffic lights I found it nearly impossible to find neutral gear. Is this normal?

I know that any other bikes I have owned I can get neurtal in a split second but this bike its very awkward to find it and I found myself holding the clutch in most of the time.

any ideas or suggestions on how to find a cure for this?

Also pulled into the petrol station still couldnt find neutral swithche bike off pressed the gear leaver and hey presto straight into neutral. Got petrol came back out and it wouldnt start, wouldnt even turnover. Switched ignition off and back on and it fired up first time! Any suggestions on what could of caused that?

[Falcopops]

Neutral can be a pain, mine's only started to be difficult in the last year after 8 easy years, others have had more difficulty.

There's a different clutch jet you can get that make it easier, have a search for "clutch jet".

The issue at the gas station could be related to the side stand switch or the kill switch. Side stand switches have been known to go bad and the kill switch can become corroded. It could also be that you didn't have it properly in neutral.

HTH

[Aladinsaneuk]

Until you have done the clutch jet - and yes, just do it, go from second into neutral - a lot easier

Some also get into the habit of slipping it into neutral before coming to a stop....

[flatlander]

Clutch jet is £10.47 from griff at aprilia performance[/list]

[anzacinexile]

A lot suffer from this. First make sure the clutch is well bled and try 10W-40 oil (as well as the jet maybe). After bleeding and changing the oil mine just slips in now, cold or hot. Mines always been a bugger when cold but all is well now

[D-Rider]

Probably the most discussed subject on the forum over the years.

Comments as per the others on here - you'll find a lot more with the Search Function too

[HowardQ]

In all the 7 years plus I have had my Falco I have looked for the elusive "Neutral".
Must admit this has not been an easy task!
Sadly Andy I have never tried using the search function to look for it, but hey it might be worth a try next time I am stopped at traffic lights with my laptop on the tank!

Being serious, going from 2nd to neutral, as suggested works fine, so I have just done it that way for years.
The clutch jet mod seems a good solution but I ain't got around to it yet!

Have you also noticed how the clutch fluid is also black?
Don't ask it just is, (quickly returns after a fluid change as well), but works fine!

Just enjoy the bike.

[Firestarter]

And to provide the flip-side comments, I've never really had a problem. Only time I get trouble is when I've left the chain go a long time, but as soon as the tension is back OK, it seems fine

I haven't swapped the clutch jet, but I do remember something about later models having an easier time of it (mines an 04)

[mrapriliafalco]

And to provide the flip-side comments, I've never really had a problem. Only time I get trouble is when I've left the chain go a long time, but as soon as the tension is back OK, it seems fine

I haven't swapped the clutch jet, but I do remember something about later models having an easier time of it (mines an 04)

Same as mate I have a new chain and sprockets,find neutral no problem now

[GregD-UK]

Hi all,

Yes, as said above, the dredded "neutral" saga keeps going. Check your clutch oil (bleed it and change oil yearly). Position of lever is quite important, BUT, the adjustment on the ickle pin in the lever housing is CRITICAL

I adjusted mine, and can find neutral anytime. Even when cold!

P.S. Remember to release the tiny allen key on the pin before you start rivving lumps out of the pin head.
P.P.S. I have turned my pin through 180 degrees and put the allen head ontop instead on the bottom, might fall out (unlikely). It also reminds you that it is there

[Blackranger68]

[quote="flatlander"]Clutch jet is £10.47 from griff at aprilia performance[/list][/quote]

Is the jet easy to put in? and how or where do I get hold of griff on this site?

I am assuming that the clutch fluid is easy to replace and uses the standard Dot 4 brake and clutch fluid? Or is there a better alternative that some of you guys have tried?

I have read on here that even the new fluid goes black very quickly, and that this is normal... bit strange but hey as long as it works fine and I can get a neutral.

I will check the chain adjustment is correct also though when I set it up it seemed fine to me.

I did replace the side stand switch with a honda fireblade one. Much better than the original and has a stainless steel peg whereas the one that was on it was not working because of the plastic pin being broken. When the side stand is down the light now comes on in the dash.

Im still on the hunt for a RR04 - RR07 fireblade side stand. The one I have got on is not the original one and it dont even hold the bike at a proper angle. Does anyone know if I need to find the entire fireblade side stand including the mounting bracket?

Thanks for all your help.

[anzacinexile]

Changing clutch fluid is easy. Tube on nipple, open reservoir, open nipple fully and let the old drain out whilst keeping the reservoir topped up. Wait until fluid goes clear in the tube and close nipple. SIMPLES

Actually, if you're going to do this, RTFM and bleed at the same time. I'll bet my mortgage you'll get a stream of bubbles, almost foam.

[Aladinsaneuk]

with respect

NO :)

read https://www.ridersite.com/viewtopic.php?t=3763 and do that for bleeding - I use that guide and reverse bleed - it works!

changing the clutch jet - http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/show ... clutch+jet is a long thread but explains it very well - twenty minute job - BUT GET THE RIGHT SIZE SCREWDRIVER and a wooden tooth pick

(Note to self and Andy - we need to make our own version of this thread for our technical section....)

[D-Rider]

I think the success of different bleeding methods depends on whether you are going for a fluid change or whether you've had components/hoses off and have got a load of air in the system.

Anzac's method should be fine for fluid replacement.

One thing I found helpful was to add a banjo bolt with a bleed nipple at the clutch master cylinder. It made removing the bubbles that have risen to the top much easier. The radial master cylinder I am now using has a top bleed nipple as standard but the "conventional" brembo master cylinders fitted to Falcos don't.

[anzacinexile]

with respect

NO :)

With respect YES. I've NEVER, repeat NEVER had a problem bleeding clutch or brakes using the RTFM method. I know others have problems but for the life of me I dont understand why and that includes completely empty circuits