Service question and summary

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flatlander
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Service question and summary

#1 Post by flatlander » Sun Jul 31, 2011 8:22 am

Ok so the service light is on and having enlisted the assistance of a suitably talented and generous forum member :smt003 … well to be fair Blinkey volunteered …mad fool! :smt002 I am going to attempt the 14 k service. So …after using the search function; yes there are some of us who can do at least that; this is what I have come up with as my schedule for you all to comment on and highlight the obvious errors for hopefully it may help for other mechanical numpties such as myself

…And no Jay I am not going to attempt it all in one go, even I am not that dumb… well I may be but not in this case…LOL

From what I have read the 14k service is mainly Filters Oil, Coolant checking tightness of various bits and pieces, greasing/ oiling things etc. And as I have looked at the manual... it tells you to change the fuel lines every 4yrs so give them a good looking at - at the very least....

I already have the Fuel exhausts to replace standard – so that is one job down!

1) First make sure I have access to a paddock stand! Or even an Abba stand

2) Get access to a Stubby Flex Head Ratchet Set not the cheaper ones - where from?

3) Then as we are changing the front sprocket for a 15 tooth jobbies I should remember to make sure I tighten to the correct torque and use a glob of thread lock (locktite )

4) 4 iridium spark plugs - NGK's Iridium plug for the Falco is the DCPR9EIX there's also the DENSO IXU27 Before removing the spark plugs take care to clean all the crap away from the surrounding area of the plugs on the Falco, blast the head cavities with compressed air if you can. Check out an IT supplier for cans of compressed air. You don't need to torque spark plugs though. Just follow the instructions on the box. It is something like do up to finger tight then 1/2 turn with a wrench. If you do fit some, check their tightness occasionally

5) IF you do have to whip the spark plugs, the process is as follows:

A) Remove the two bolts holding the front of the tank in place. (8mm). lift the tank and find a suitable propping up tool.
B) Remove the 7 bolts holding the airbox cover on. (7mm), remove the airbox cover and the air filter.
C) Remove the six 4mm Allen bolts around the throttle bodies. Remove the airbox.
D) Remove the rubbery plastic piece connecting the front air intakes.

6) Now you should have access to all 4 spark plugs. Assembly is the reverse of the instructions above. The intake hoses are a bit of a pain, but a bit of a wiggle and a jiggle (reminds me of a song) and they should be fine.

7) For the air filter eventually look at changing for the full Evoluzione air kit which will last as long, but will give increased performance as well over an K&N air filter – but for now a sponge performance one which can be cleaned and reused is best

8) I have summarized the various views on oil as:
Use sport4 oil - 15/30 semi synthetic or Rock Oil (Sigma) semi, Castrol semi synth or Putoline semi 15.50 or Motul 5100 15W-50 the 300V is pretty much WSBK spec and is way OTT for our bikes. It can be found here http://www.opieoils.co.uk Opie Oils can provide a discount and filters etc. If in doubt put what was already there as older models may have clutch slippage issues with fully synth.

Use a standard oil filter - check size long or short and get appropriate cover if needed (change to long if short how do I check this easily?) long is about 72mm short is about 36mm I think
Drain the oil from the oil tank and the crank case as shown in the diagram

Oil change location image

Once finished then to turn the service message off, just hold in the main beam flash switch and press the 'R' button until it's gone

Other Jobs

I have Valve check is not part of the 14k service and also read that it is so which is it?

While doing the plugs etc … Check it has been derestricted and that cables are covered or fitted with connectors to avoid shorting

If you buy a torque wrench make sure it comes with a calibration certificate.... you'll probably have to spend a few more pennies, go for Britool or Norbar if you can. Have a new bolt ready to replace one that is proving difficult to remove is a good move as it may be weakened when removing and prone to snapping on refitting.

Future Jobs

Fit the "upgrade" clutch oil jet (not actually part of the service and not sure if I need to as mine is an 04 bike?)

Replace the coolant various options such as premixed Halfords or self mix but again which one …??

Optional - Replace the coolant expansion tank with a shiny Tuono one with CF cover (again not actually part of the service).

Still got to replace clutch and brake fluid and lines Cobra or HEL


Okay so what did I miss and what do I need to know aprt from a decision on the oil? :smt017
For the avoidance of doubt and for the benefit of my wife, not everything I may say here will be absolutely true I may on ocassion embellish a little for effect.
That said when it comes to motorbikes, I like to ride side saddle with a nice frock

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Aladinsaneuk
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#2 Post by Aladinsaneuk » Sun Jul 31, 2011 11:44 am

Ok - personal views but

Tools - I do not think you can go far wrong with the halfords pro stuff:
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... zone=PLPz1

If you do not need a full set then buy what you need only!

Again for us amateur spanner jockeys the halfords torque wrench is fine - I use http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_165469 and that works well for me

The iridium plugs - only two choices, many of us use them - once fitted no need for future maintenance - and yes do clear out around the front plugs - lots of shite collects there!

Yes buy and use WHERE INDICATED blue loctite

Do you already have a K&N? If so buy and use their refurb kit - if not then inspect what state your air filter is in - it may well not need replacing. If it does, price up a replacement - I suspect a K&N from evil bay may well be a similar price.(that gives 2-3 bhp btw)

Yes to the clutch jet - call griff and just do it

Oil - what year is your bike? I would suggest that a 10/40 semi bike oil would a good choice - and cheaper than 15/50 that the original manual indicated - aprilia approved 10/40 in 1999 btw.... Use opie oils - we get a forum discount!

Oil filter - post a picture of what you have - I strongly suspect it will be the original short filter but we will be able to see and confirm it ( halfords carry the pattern ones as stock - about 6 quid - and if you are going there any way....)

Antifreeze - http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_229902 is what I use but see what if any opie oils offer as well

Valve check - probably beyond many of us as it is a pita - is the only thing I get a mechanic to do..... Check through your service history....

When you play with the air box make sure the plate is removed - that was the original restriction - check the wire has been snipped as well

Finally, our forum discount with HEL makes them the preferred choice - I would consider your brake line options though.....

*****

Have fun with it - and feel free to ask for any other pointers


Let's face it, you wouldn't go to a nurse to get good advice on a problem with a Falco - you'd choose an Engineer or a mechanic...


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#3 Post by D-Rider » Sun Jul 31, 2011 1:30 pm

Crikey - you have been a busy reader.

Just to contradict my good friend Nursie, if you do fit the iridium plugs you will still need to check them like you would any plug.
They should give a stronger spark and help starting and running.

.... and as for NGK and DENSO, only the second of those companies pay my wages.

If you post up a pic of the oil filter, we can tell you which you have (no need to remove from the bike).
“Scientists investigate that which already is. Engineers create that which has never been.”
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Aladinsaneuk
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#4 Post by Aladinsaneuk » Sun Jul 31, 2011 1:45 pm

Oh yes check them - but need to replace ?


Let's face it, you wouldn't go to a nurse to get good advice on a problem with a Falco - you'd choose an Engineer or a mechanic...


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#5 Post by D-Rider » Sun Jul 31, 2011 2:28 pm

Aladinsaneuk wrote:Oh yes check them - but need to replace ?
Err yes ..... service life is increased but not infinitely.

You will still get erosion of the ground electrode - the fit and forget ones that some cars have have platinum coated ground electrodes - these don't.
Therefore, lifetimes are increased but not so much as to make these a "fit once" item.

A useful link: http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/tech ... _plugs.htm
“Scientists investigate that which already is. Engineers create that which has never been.”
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Aladinsaneuk
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#6 Post by Aladinsaneuk » Sun Jul 31, 2011 3:03 pm

Ah cool

So it's the NGK ONES THEN ;)


Let's face it, you wouldn't go to a nurse to get good advice on a problem with a Falco - you'd choose an Engineer or a mechanic...


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#7 Post by D-Rider » Sun Jul 31, 2011 3:40 pm

Aladinsaneuk wrote:Ah cool

So it's the NGK ONES THEN ;)
why?
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flatlander
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THANKS!

#8 Post by flatlander » Sun Jul 31, 2011 3:52 pm

Bike is o4 olympic bronze ... not faster but prettier! and as I am going slower I have more time to appreciate it! :smt007
For the avoidance of doubt and for the benefit of my wife, not everything I may say here will be absolutely true I may on ocassion embellish a little for effect.
That said when it comes to motorbikes, I like to ride side saddle with a nice frock

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#9 Post by MartDude » Sun Jul 31, 2011 4:28 pm

Re plugs. Cheap (standard) NGK's on e-bay :
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/APRILIA-1000- ... 633wt_1139
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Aladinsaneuk
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#10 Post by Aladinsaneuk » Sun Jul 31, 2011 4:50 pm

Just because the ngk ones seem to be cheaper ATM - I use the denso's myself, but have used the ngk's on another bike


Let's face it, you wouldn't go to a nurse to get good advice on a problem with a Falco - you'd choose an Engineer or a mechanic...


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#11 Post by blinkey501 » Sun Jul 31, 2011 5:54 pm

jeff you get the service bits and locktight and i will bring the tools required :smt023
Tolerance will be our undoing.

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#12 Post by Aladinsaneuk » Sun Jul 31, 2011 6:02 pm

I reckon that printing out the big service workshop manual is worth it btw

Oh, you need a warm engine for the oil change and cold engine for antifreeze..... I did mine after running bike for 5 minutes, temp showing at 70. - by the time I had drained the oil etc and gaffes around, the fluids were cool enough to drain

You will need either new copper washer or access to a way of annealing the old one - camping gas stoves do that job well!


Let's face it, you wouldn't go to a nurse to get good advice on a problem with a Falco - you'd choose an Engineer or a mechanic...


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flatlander
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Oil Housing and shopping

#13 Post by flatlander » Tue Aug 02, 2011 2:54 pm

For the avoidance of doubt and for the benefit of my wife, not everything I may say here will be absolutely true I may on ocassion embellish a little for effect.
That said when it comes to motorbikes, I like to ride side saddle with a nice frock

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Samray
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#14 Post by Samray » Tue Aug 02, 2011 3:16 pm

Possibly.
Nursey wrote:Use opie oils - we get a forum discount!


https://www.ridersite.com/viewtopic.php?t=6226


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#15 Post by Kwackerz » Tue Aug 02, 2011 4:40 pm

Youll find they do filters, plugs, oils, antifreeze...
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