Falco Winter Work

Message

Nooj · #91 Post by **Nooj** » Sun Dec 19, 2010 11:37 pm

Can't remember how the OE lines fit, is there a T-piece that screws onto the bottom yoke?

Falcopops · #92 Post by **Falcopops** » Mon Dec 20, 2010 12:03 am

Ditch the clamp. I put Cobra lines on mine, which are way thinner than the O/E lines so are loose as well as angled in the grommets. I didn't expect the grommets to stay in place, but they're fine, so nothing to be concerned about.

rick · #93 Post by **rick** » Mon Dec 20, 2010 4:28 pm

Yeah these are also cobra and they are definitely thinner then OE...

I have rotated the clamp you can see in the picture more anticlockwise which helps, and also used a small tie where the two hoses meet a few inches higher. I like things to be neat and tidy so will either attempt to remove grommits from old lines and install over the Cobra ones, or make the Cobra ones a bit more beefy by applying lots of self emalgamating tape.

Either way they look ace and although I've changed a lot (pads, fluid, cleaned caliper and new hoses!) the brakes do feel much much better (although of course the proof is in the pudding and that pudding is a bit white and frozen at the moment!).

rick · #94 Post by **rick** » Sun Dec 26, 2010 7:54 pm

Had a bit of spare time this evening so decided to remove front discs and lift the washer tabs on the bobbins to free them up a bit... I used to get a slight pulsing at lever and have been putting this off until the winter.

So... my question is have I gone too far

I raised the tabs a bit all around and to my untrained eye they appear to be too loose now... whatcha think? Video below...

Willopotomas · #95 Post by **Willopotomas** » Sun Dec 26, 2010 10:43 pm

best way to clean them out is with a nut n' bolt and a can of brake cleaner. Put the nut n' bolt through the hole in the bobbin and tighten until it pinches a little (dont over do it!).. Use the spanner to rotate the bobbin round while spraying brake cleaner in the gap. You'll be amazed at the crap that come out!

As for the one you've done.. hmm.. I've seen worse..lol..

rick · #96 Post by **rick** » Tue Dec 28, 2010 10:30 am

Cheers Will

I've now completed the front wheel work... bearings were checked before removing wheel and are fine and as above post, I've cleaned and loosened all bobbins and they all sping freely (some more freely than others

.

I've also sanded the discs to remove any glazing and some scoring using both a small wire wheel and some 80 grit sand paper. Both front discs are around 4.75mm thick and so are still above the tolerance for minimum thickness.

Here's a pic of one before work:

And one finished and fitted to the wheel:

I sanded the disc using a criss-cross pattern to remove as much scoring as possible... hopefully this will give the new pads a good surface to bite into.

I removed all loctite residue from threads and all bolts and have replaced discs and torqued up to 30NM with some more loctite applied. Wheel is now ready to refit to bike which I'll hopefully do sometime today... now I need to dig out the tightening procedure for the fork clamps

D-Rider · #97 Post by **D-Rider** » Tue Dec 28, 2010 11:01 am

When you take the bike out next, bed the pads in properly. The initial deposition of pad material onto the disc is critical for how they will perform.

This link explains how and why - and a load of other braking related stuff.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_wa ... disk.shtml

I've posted it a number of times but it always deserves another airing.

rick · #98 Post by **rick** » Tue Dec 28, 2010 11:13 am

Aha cheers... noticed that posted somewhere else and was meaning to read it...

Regarding front wheel re-installation... in the past I just put the spindle through, tightened up the pinch bolts on the left-hand side, torqued up the axle nut, and tightened other pinch bolts. Never had a problem doing this... but the manual states you should drop the bike and settle the suspension before tightening pinch bolts.

What procedure do u guys recommend?

fastasfcuk · #99 Post by **fastasfcuk** » Tue Dec 28, 2010 11:24 am

second one.

Nooj · #100 Post by **Nooj** » Tue Dec 28, 2010 3:42 pm

Yep. Get everything aligned and naturally settled in place with the weight of the upright bike (not leaning over on the side stand) on it THEN tighten the bolts.

D-Rider · #101 Post by **D-Rider** » Tue Dec 28, 2010 3:52 pm

Nooj wrote:Yep. Get everything aligned and naturally settled in place with the weight of the upright bike (not leaning over on the side stand) on it THEN tighten the bolts.

.... and be careful when tightening the pinch bolts - especially those with Ohlins forks - easy to crack the fork bottoms.

rick · #102 Post by **rick** » Tue Dec 28, 2010 4:52 pm

Cherz for the tips guys!

rick · #103 Post by **rick** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 8:06 pm

So I had five hours today to work on bike... managed to replace the front wheel and managed to install a new clutch slave seal, braided hose and bleed the complete system

I started by bleeding the clutch hydraulics and removing the old hose, noting how it was routed. I had to remove the top bolt for the oil tank to remove/install the lines which was a bit of a pain

I had previously replaced the seal on the clutch slave but had ordered two so I though why not, might as well fit a new one. I removed the clutch slave, gave it a bloody good clean and installed the new seal avec silicon grease. There was black reside in the cylinder presumably from the grinding effect of aluminum against aluminum (like when you use autosol to clean metal). I reinstalled the slave cylinder but didn't bother torqueing up...

I then installed the line, following same path as original, and torqued it up at the master cylinder to 15Nm. I connected the line at the slave cylinder and allowed the system to gravity bleed and when it started pissing out of the banjo at the slave cylinder I nipped up the bolts and began to bleed. I didn't have a new banjo with a bleed nipple so I used to OEM one but used new copper washers.

Bleeding was easy, I used the normal procedure of gaining pressure, holding down the lever and opening the bleed nipple. I continued this maybe 10 times, continually topping up reservoir, and then suddenly POW you get pressure. I continued this until no air came out and then removed the slave, moved it around around to displace any air, and then torqued it up. I then bled the remaining air out (which there was none!) and then torqued everything up and job done.

Really happy with the way it all went... really starting to see the end of my winter work... can't wait to get back out on it!

MartDude · #104 Post by **MartDude** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 8:16 pm

I'm getting jealous - all these people with garages

Nooj · #105 Post by **Nooj** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 9:29 pm

I haven't started my winter work yet, been too busy or too cold to do any yet