Falco Winter Work

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Willopotomas · #31 Post by **Willopotomas** » Thu Dec 02, 2010 6:44 pm

Why me?..lol..

Compression test will show major leaks, a leak-down test will tell you everything. If you're getting good compression with a compression tester, then chances are everything is sealing as it should. The way engines are designed and made these days (also the higher quality of oils) means you shouldn't have any compression issues unless something has gone wrong.. By which time you'll know about it.

Higher grade alloys, coated bores and tighter machining tolerances mean the engine will most likely out live the rest of the bike. If it ent broke.. Don't fix it.

rick · #32 Post by **rick** » Thu Dec 02, 2010 6:49 pm

Well I'm going to check it again on sat... sure it's fine re: reverse turning of engine - it turns over fine (manual cranking) so I'm just worrying about nothing.

Will u busy sat?!

fastasfcuk · #33 Post by **fastasfcuk** » Thu Dec 02, 2010 7:10 pm

rick, i wish i had'nt said always turn the crank the way it runs.it is a rule of thumb and can in theory cause the chain-belt to jump as you throw slack by turning the other way.very very rare.
you'll be fine.

Willopotomas · #34 Post by **Willopotomas** » Thu Dec 02, 2010 7:20 pm

fastasfcuk wrote:rick, i wish i had'nt said always turn the crank the way it runs.it is a rule of thumb and can in theory cause the chain-belt to jump as you throw slack by turning the other way.very very rare.
you'll be fine.

If the belt/chains were slack enough to do that they'll throw themselves off while it's running. Not heard of this happening by turning the engine back wards.. Ever.. (but I'm not saying it's never happened

)

Rick. PM sent dude.

fastasfcuk · #35 Post by **fastasfcuk** » Thu Dec 02, 2010 9:01 pm

they do'nt have to be slack, turning an engine the wrong way can create slack.the tensioner is designed to work against the crank in it's rotation. i have known it but you have to be really unlucky.it was hammered into me never turn an engine the wrong way.

Viking · #36 Post by **Viking** » Thu Dec 02, 2010 10:33 pm

When I used to pull my Honda engine apart for rebuilds, I turned the crank in both directions without any problems at all. Ever.

I just made certain that I turned the crank in the correct direction to tension the camchain when I was about to check all the valve gear.

rick · #37 Post by **rick** » Fri Dec 03, 2010 10:34 pm

Thanks for all youre replies guys, mucho appreciated. I'm now 99.99% convinced all is well...

Turn the engine several times in the correct direction with no contact between valves and pistons - CHECK
Intake valve opens as pistons move downwards - CHECK
Both intake and exhaust closed as piston moves to TDC with compression - CHECK
Both intake and exhaust closed as piston moved back down - CHECK
Exhaust opens and piston returns to start point - CHECK

Marvellous!

rick · #38 Post by **rick** » Sat Dec 04, 2010 9:57 pm

So I've put the valve covers back on and tried to start her up.......

....and she sounds beautiful

The first two or three seconds sounded a bit noisey (almost like something was "tightening up") but then she sounded the same as ever. So no issues re: valves/pistons having lunch and started first pop :)

Well chuffed and thanks to all for words of advice and Will for offering to pop over this morning (had to cancel since I forgot about a kids birthday party my daughter wanted to go to). Been home for a few hours now and been non-stop working on the bike! Wifey wasn't too impressed but hey, there we go lol

So valves checked... few just on tolerance but I'll check again in 9k miles unless I have any reason to suspect something is up. The front cover was a bitch to remove but once you've worked out how its done its just time consuming.

I've also cleaned and re-gapped my iridium plugs (although 3 of 4 didn't need it) cleaned/added new electrical tape on various cables and generally tidied things up. I also gave the throttle bodies a good clean, greased the springs on the throttle mechanism and serviced the pipercross air filer using the K&N cleaning kit (thanks to Alad for recommending that some time go). The heat shield on the inner side of the tank that protects it from the rear cylinder was peeling and pretty grotty so I replaced it with some heatshield I had for some panniers a year or so ago.

I'm just about to add some window sealant around where the filter joins the carbon plate of my Rene kit... there is a very small gap at the front I never noticed before and I read somewhere on here (think it was paddy) who added some sealant. Anything to reduce the possibility of crap being sucked in there!

All thats remaining engine-wise is oil, filter and balancing throttle bodies.

Here's a couple of pics:

Willopotomas · #39 Post by **Willopotomas** » Sat Dec 04, 2010 11:29 pm

I love progress pics like this.

Glad you're getting some spanner time in mate.. The leaky workshop problem has set me back a week in getting the place straight enough to get a bike in.. Bloody electrics packed up this evening and can't sort it till Monday.. Buggah!

Falco9 · #40 Post by **Falco9** » Sun Dec 05, 2010 10:22 am

rick wrote: I've also cleaned and re-gapped my iridium plugs (although 3 of 4 didn't need it)

I'm almost certain that you should not try to re-gap iridium plugs. They wear out so slowly anyway (as you've found) but you can crack the insulation around the tips when adjusting them because its so thin.

Chances are you should be fine though, especially as the bike fired up and sounds so sweet, but normally its a definate no no unless the gap is enourmous

Excellent write up though, my next job is to replace (or hopefully just re-fit) the front rocker cover gasket as its leaking so your pics are very helpful

F9

fastasfcuk · #41 Post by **fastasfcuk** » Sun Dec 05, 2010 10:59 am

as rich says.

rick · #42 Post by **rick** » Sun Dec 05, 2010 5:43 pm

Oops didn't realise re: plugs... obviously been lucky!

Last night, mindful of the small gap between the base of the filter and the baseplate on my Rene kit, I decided to add some sealant on the plate to make a tighter fit... I used silicone sealant and it seems to have worked a treat. I didn't add the sealant near the mounting holes because it was tight there anyway.

Pic:

This morning I've also looked into balancing throttles and have read up on idle thumbscrew, TPS sensor (and using diag tool), air bleeder screws and, since I have this:

...the ECU trim pots (assuming this is like an air/fuel mixture). I read somewhere that balancing TB's aint really necessary, but I have also read that some people prefer they're front cylinder to pull harder than the rear.

Thoughts on this?

#43 Post by **Kwackerz** » Sun Dec 05, 2010 6:23 pm

Now you're entering the dark side.

Unless you know what youre doing with the Trim Pots, Dont touch them. Just polish the swingarm instead.

If you do know what youre doing, proceed with a big bag of caution and a bloody good notepad and pen to record exactly what you do to the bike. if you get it wrong you will run round in circles trying to get it all set back to where it was...

All it needs is a sneeze while youre adjusting something and youre in shitsville

rick · #44 Post by **rick** » Sun Dec 05, 2010 6:29 pm

:) :)

I've already made loads of notes of where things are AND put little marks on all adjustments so I can return if needs be.

I've read a few guides on this, mostly on AF1 forum, and they seem easy enough... here is one example Clicky

#45 Post by **Kwackerz** » Sun Dec 05, 2010 6:36 pm

Dr Rossi's reply http://www.rsvzone.com/forums/showthrea ... ECU-screws is very good. 10th line of text is probably the best advice on there..