Bar height adjustment

Message

blenks · #1 Post by **blenks** » Sat Aug 22, 2009 2:38 pm

Following the pleas for help over my aching wrists and possible bar risers. I'm wondering if anyone can give me some guidance on how to alter the set up to put the clip ons above the top yoke as suggested as a cheap solution. Not much of a mechanic and having read D-riders post regarding the 14mm Hex fixing I'm not confident to tackle it without a bit of knowledge. Do you think I would be better off letting the dealer do it when it goes in for a service end of September? I suppose I could put up with it for another couple of weeks.

D-Rider · #2 Post by **D-Rider** » Sat Aug 22, 2009 5:15 pm

Don't think you need to remove the top yoke so the 14m hex is not a problem (and I've now got the right tool anyway).
Think we just need to slip the forks down so they drop below the top yoke and that will allow the clipons to be removed.

Never done this mod though - are there any issues with cable / hose routing anyone?

Dare say I could probably help you to sort this out.

dyzio · #3 Post by **dyzio** » Sat Aug 22, 2009 5:39 pm

I did this a few months back. It can be tricky but wasn't too bad.
You'll need to take the top yoke off, slide the clip-ons off, put the yoke back on, lift the forks to around 6 rings showing, fit clipons back on.

You'll need to support the front of the bike (I used an abba stand and my mate was supporting the rear).

Bad bits:
- the first part of the brake line will be stretched, so get some braided hoses (I've ordered HEL's + extra 3cm, more than enough, I suppose the normal race kit would be fine as well).
- the clip-ons will hit either the tank or the fairing, depends how you set them.

The steering will be affected (faster turn in) but it will also feel a bit different at lows speeds. Some folk fit a steering damper, I rode 2-3k miles now and I don't think I'll be getting one.

HTH
dyzio

blenks · #4 Post by **blenks** » Sat Aug 22, 2009 7:26 pm

Had a look through the archives and found some instructions posted by Aladinsaneuk. If you still have the photos I would like to see them. Appreciate the offer of help D-rider. If I do decide to do it I will certainly call on you.

As for supporting the rear using a mate, would a paddock stand do? I have a rear and I'm looking for a front at the moment. Any preference as to fork or yoke type???

Anymore info out there from anyone just to help me decide whether to do it myself or not?

dyzio · #5 Post by **dyzio** » Sat Aug 22, 2009 9:10 pm

blenks wrote: As for supporting the rear using a mate, would a paddock stand do? I have a rear and I'm looking for a front at the moment. Any preference as to fork or yoke type???

No, you must remove all weight from the front. If you don't do this the yokes will just drop down.
Unless I'm wrong, a yoke stand could do the trick, but remember about the weight of the bike when you loosen the yokes: if you don't support it right it can either drop to the bottom of the forks or the forks can pop out (an extreme case). You could try putting something under the engine, a car jack might do the trick.

An abba stand fits into the swingarm bolt, more or less in the middle of the bike. That means that the person at the rear of the bike is acting as a counter weight.
I wouldn't attempt this with a rear paddock stand, but that's just me.

Anyway, that's how I did it, I'm sure Aladinsaneuk will be here shorlty.

D-Rider · #6 Post by **D-Rider** » Sun Aug 23, 2009 12:01 am

I've an ulti-pro stand (similar to the Abba). I used that and a trolley jack when I changed my forks .....

Aladinsaneuk · #7 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Sun Aug 23, 2009 12:10 am

i do have the photos but am in the process of moving house - so likely to take a while before i can post them up again....

the instructions i posted are quite simple i think - just take time to plan it and get front end lifted.... I did, possibly, over engineer what i did - but works for me :)

ReggieGasket · #8 Post by **ReggieGasket** » Sun Aug 23, 2009 9:44 am

Yes, my experience of doing this with other types of bikes is that it's just a matter of dropping the forks so the you can get the clip-ons out. I've used car jacks under the engine before, but I have an old bottle jack which is good for this type of thing. The Abba stand sounds ideal though.

On another line of thought, if you're new to the bike, you may find the wrist problems go away as you get used to the bike. Riding at speed helps as the wind blast takes weight off your wrists. Also, you may find you learn to take more weight through your back by adopting more of a racer crouch. I remember going from a KMX200 to an RGV250 many years ago and was in agony for a couple of months. It felt ridiculous at first. Then all the pain went away. I even toured round Wales and Cornwall with no problems. Eeeeee....

dyzio · #9 Post by **dyzio** » Sun Aug 23, 2009 10:30 am

This should help too:

http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/show ... p?t=153689

blenks · #10 Post by **blenks** » Sun Aug 23, 2009 12:33 pm

Thanks for the link dyzio. I had actually found it yesterday and printed it out. As mentioned though, it may just be a matter of getting used to it. I have just had 2 new boots fitted and went for a 100 mile trot this morning and it felt much better. I did not get so much numbness in my fingers, possibly due to vibration from the old front tyre. I will give it a while I think before making any adjustments but I will ask for it to be returned to standard settings during its service. As I have said previously there are more than 3 lines visible above the top yoke.

D-Rider · #11 Post by **D-Rider** » Sun Aug 23, 2009 1:04 pm

blenks wrote: I will ask for it to be returned to standard settings during its service. As I have said previously there are more than 3 lines visible above the top yoke.

You might regret it unless you increase rear ride height to compensate (though it can be easily changed back again) - you'll be slowing down the turn-in - for me this was one of the biggest issues when I first got the bike.
Getting rid of the OEM tyres was a big help then with the MilleR shock, jacking it up to maximum helped a lot, lightweight wheels made a big difference too and when I changed the forks I set them at the MilleR setting of 4 lines down.

It's good now - so much better than before.

There again, each of us is looking for a slightly different feeling from the bike so you might like it with a more standard setup.

HisNibbs · #12 Post by **HisNibbs** » Sun Aug 23, 2009 3:08 pm

Initialy I found the front end very vauge leading me to lack feel and confidence. I've increaced the rear ride height on my Ohlins to the max and have over 5 lines showing through the yokes. Much better. No problem with trying it out I suppose but I'm pretty sure if you are into chucking the bike through the twistiess, you will be going the wrong way by reducing the number of rings showing.