Once you get the bolt out (not easy I know, have you thought about drilling and helicoiling or even spark erosion?) refit up to finger tight and apply no more than 1/2 turn (if that) it only needs "nipping" up IMHO and if you can find a suitable copper washer to go behind it so much the better. (it doesn't have a copper washer does it?, I can't remember)
I ran my Falco (2 oil changes a year for 5 yrs) doing this and no problems the magnetic bolt came out easily every time. I am an engineer by trade (a mechanical one) so I do appreciate that the term "nipping" up is a loose one to someone who is less experienced at spanner twirling in general.
Torque wrenches vary in quality enourmously, Just last week I read Ride magazine had bought one from Machine Mart (Clarks) now I normally buy their gear as it normally good quality without breaking the bank, but the wrench they bought sheared off 4 bolts when used on the factory setting and is now in the bin it was that bad
No offence to my american friends but this reliance on using a torque wrench for "every" nut and bolt on a bike does seem to stem from the USA. In the engine, yes every time, but if you don't know when a wheel nut or a spak plug is tight enough I reckon you should leave it to a mechanic (this comment is not aimed at you dyzio but a general one)
When I mentioned this on the AF1 forum I was bombarded with comments about "not being safe" , "If your wheel falls off you've only yourself to blame" etc.... Well I'm approaching 40yrs of biking on & off road, and many years in competition trials riding as well, and I've never lost a nut or bolt off a bike yet
Just my two pennies worth. Sorry it doesn't really answer the question, but seriously as you tighten the bolt I reckon you will know when it is tight enough just from the feel
F9
