Had the hands available helping to take the bike outside today.
Was very curious about how it would run with the new chip and filter.
I will hardly call this first try a ride, more a around the block thing. It fired up first time and after idling to normal temp. i started out real slow. after approx. 1 km it felt like something on the frontwheel kind of stuck and then let go again, stuck and let go... any of you have a clue? there is nothing visible to see. i just returned back home as i dont have the curage to go for a longer ride.
It felt like something gradually braking (tightening) and then snap...it did this twice within 5 10 sec.... to me it sounds like the wheel bearings. any other suggestions?
Finn
First 2009 ride and some advice needed
Moderators: Aladinsaneuk, MartDude, D-Rider, Moderators
First 2009 ride and some advice needed
Last edited by finn on Sat Feb 28, 2009 5:02 pm, edited 2 times in total.
could be... but after letting go and no touching the brake, how could it then stick again? could it be bearings?
when we took it outside, i could hear some scraping sound from the front disc.
when we took it outside, i could hear some scraping sound from the front disc.
Last edited by finn on Sat Feb 28, 2009 3:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Just had a short trip again... and there is definantely something wrong. It feels like there is a slight breaking and the sam time the front wheel feels hmmm crunchy.
i tried to feel the discs if they were warm/hot due to friction from the brakepads, but its cold, same goes for where i expect the wheelbearings should be.
i tried to feel the discs if they were warm/hot due to friction from the brakepads, but its cold, same goes for where i expect the wheelbearings should be.
Going on the condition of your chain in the other post then it is very possible that the brake discs and/or pads have got corroded. It will take a bit of hefty braking to clear this crap off and it does sound and feel awful to begin with.
HOWEVER - if you suspect the bearings then you should look very closely at them first as disintegrating bearings could be very nasty ! Can you raise the front of the bike and spin the wheel to feel them ?
I think if in any doubt about the bearing condition I would remove the wheel and check them SOON.
HOWEVER - if you suspect the bearings then you should look very closely at them first as disintegrating bearings could be very nasty ! Can you raise the front of the bike and spin the wheel to feel them ?
I think if in any doubt about the bearing condition I would remove the wheel and check them SOON.
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Firestarter
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All four should move - you may find that one (or two) move easier than the others, due to the amount of road gunk/brake dust on them, but unless they're properly stuck, you should find they'll all press against the pads - just slightly preferentially. Try "restraining" the two that move, and then gently pumping the lever to see if the two "stuck" ones move. If they're sticking, I'd try cleaning them before pushing them back into the caliper at all.
Don't ask me how to restrain them - my efforts in that area ususally resort to brute-force and ignorance, a work-mate, some wood and some g-clamps (depening on how many free hands I need).
Don't ask me how to restrain them - my efforts in that area ususally resort to brute-force and ignorance, a work-mate, some wood and some g-clamps (depening on how many free hands I need).
Aprilia SL1000 Falco '04 in Black & Red
Pads look OK. Get the front wheel up off the ground and give it a spin without the calipers on. If it still sounds crunchy or rumbly and clonky the the bearings could be shagged.
If it's not the bearings, put ONE caliper (with pads) back on and spin the wheel again and see what happens. Then take that caliper off, put the other one on and do the same.
It could be the buttons sticking on the disk rotors, making the disks run out of true which would give the grabbing symptoms you described. Sticking pistons would do the same though and it sounds like they are long overdue for a clean.
If it's not the bearings, put ONE caliper (with pads) back on and spin the wheel again and see what happens. Then take that caliper off, put the other one on and do the same.
It could be the buttons sticking on the disk rotors, making the disks run out of true which would give the grabbing symptoms you described. Sticking pistons would do the same though and it sounds like they are long overdue for a clean.
SHINY BIKE SYNDROME Motorcycle valeting and paint protection specialist.
Aladinsaneuk wrote:andy is having a VERY heavy period
My guess is that it's all OK now that Finn has told us:Nooj wrote:Pads look OK. Get the front wheel up off the ground and give it a spin without the calipers on. If it still sounds crunchy or rumbly and clonky the the bearings could be shagged.
If it's not the bearings, put ONE caliper (with pads) back on and spin the wheel again and see what happens. Then take that caliper off, put the other one on and do the same.
It could be the buttons sticking on the disk rotors, making the disks run out of true which would give the grabbing symptoms you described. Sticking pistons would do the same though and it sounds like they are long overdue for a clean.
Thought it would be sticking pistons.finn wrote:Thanks Firestarter.
Cleaned the pistons and they all move now.
Thank you all for your replies.
yes i took the pads out, cleaned the pistons and made them all move. Really an achievement by my standards as im not very experienced in DIY. seems like the breaking has gone. Also had a look at the bearing seals which seems to be ok. I suspect that a break down will create some heat and maybe show this as deformed seals. no heat on discs or bearings after driving 2 miles low speed. Maybe im just being paranoid.. and have forgotten the feel after 3 month layover. But i still have the high frequent ripple (dont laugh now, it could be the profile on the front tyre). I will take it to the workshop tomorrow, as im still a bit worried about this breaking snap...breaking snap thing on the first trip.
I dont have a wheel lifting stand so cant really do much more by my self. Has not really been my day today, drowned it and drained the battery. Only good thing was when i had charged it and the full throttle trick...Wow..what a roar and brutal sound with the new open airbox.
yes i took the pads out, cleaned the pistons and made them all move. Really an achievement by my standards as im not very experienced in DIY. seems like the breaking has gone. Also had a look at the bearing seals which seems to be ok. I suspect that a break down will create some heat and maybe show this as deformed seals. no heat on discs or bearings after driving 2 miles low speed. Maybe im just being paranoid.. and have forgotten the feel after 3 month layover. But i still have the high frequent ripple (dont laugh now, it could be the profile on the front tyre). I will take it to the workshop tomorrow, as im still a bit worried about this breaking snap...breaking snap thing on the first trip.
I dont have a wheel lifting stand so cant really do much more by my self. Has not really been my day today, drowned it and drained the battery. Only good thing was when i had charged it and the full throttle trick...Wow..what a roar and brutal sound with the new open airbox.
All good info for anyone else with similar symptomsMy guess is that it's all OK now that Finn has told us:
SHINY BIKE SYNDROME Motorcycle valeting and paint protection specialist.
Aladinsaneuk wrote:andy is having a VERY heavy period
looks like you have it sorted now.
always a good idea to pull over and check brakes if you doubt them. call for recovery if you have to!
siezed pistons are a right pain. i tend to remove them every other pad change aswell as the sliding pins. obviously fluid too. takes a good 2 hours or so but means you will always have decent brakes! and they wont sieze so easily.
Riding to lincoln once and the back brake seemed a bit dodgy. upon inspection i found 1/3 of the pad had snapped away, and when i used the rear brake i could feel it grinding into the hard metal of the pad. Thanks EBC for your quality pads!
always a good idea to pull over and check brakes if you doubt them. call for recovery if you have to!
siezed pistons are a right pain. i tend to remove them every other pad change aswell as the sliding pins. obviously fluid too. takes a good 2 hours or so but means you will always have decent brakes! and they wont sieze so easily.
Riding to lincoln once and the back brake seemed a bit dodgy. upon inspection i found 1/3 of the pad had snapped away, and when i used the rear brake i could feel it grinding into the hard metal of the pad. Thanks EBC for your quality pads!
