Horn Chapter 2

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Fausto
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#16 Post by Fausto » Fri Jun 06, 2008 5:12 pm

I would have thought you could test either horn for operation by simply wiring it direct to a 12v car battery ?

At least then you'd know it was working.

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Nooj
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#17 Post by Nooj » Fri Jun 06, 2008 6:37 pm

You could do that, car batteries can kick out a fatally high current though, high enough to weld a screwdriver across the terminals, so be very carefull!

I don't mind having a look at it, but it may be a bit of a treck up here to Newbury.
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#18 Post by phillvr6 » Fri Jun 06, 2008 6:53 pm

Syltiz wrote:Phil, I am very close to you and while im fairly competent in the garage, electricity is not my forte either. But I can help you test things with the multimeter and supply a 3rd horn to try?
Thanks,
I might well take you up on that offer.

Phill

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#19 Post by phillvr6 » Fri Jun 06, 2008 6:55 pm

Nooj wrote:You could do that, car batteries can kick out a fatally high current though, high enough to weld a screwdriver across the terminals, so be very carefull!

I don't mind having a look at it, but it may be a bit of a treck up here to Newbury.
Thanks, I appreciate the offer, I'll see if I can sort it locally first though.

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Fausto
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#20 Post by Fausto » Fri Jun 06, 2008 7:12 pm

Nooj wrote:You could do that, car batteries can kick out a fatally high current though, high enough to weld a screwdriver across the terminals, so be very carefull!
Pah!!

Just wear wellies :smt002

But seriously, Nooj is right. If you test it this way take care.

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Crispy
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#21 Post by Crispy » Sat Jun 07, 2008 8:45 am

Technical note: you should not be able to get a fatal shock from a 12v supply - resistance of the skin is too high to get any noticable current following - needs about 50v to overcome this (depending on how dry your skin is) before you can feel anything, over 110v to be fatal. Of course if you really try hard (eg put the battery terminals in your mouth) you might be able to prove me wrong. Warnings about high currents from short circuiting the battery are valid though - I have a burnt spanner to prove it - but the dangers are burns/splashes of molten metal and setting fire to the bike.

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#22 Post by Samray » Sat Jun 07, 2008 9:00 am

Battery terminals burn with a ferocity I'd only seen before when HMS Sheffield was hit.

as I discovered when the starter of a 24v van jammed. :smt012

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#23 Post by Nooj » Sat Jun 07, 2008 10:41 pm

but the dangers are burns/splashes of molten metal and setting fire to the bike.
Nothing serious then Image
Wos getting confused with 240vAC/300mA potantial dangeroussnessness possiblibities safety limt waffle. Still, best not piss about with big currents (or prunes) though, AC or DC. Damn those bisexual prunes!
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#24 Post by phillvr6 » Thu Jun 19, 2008 10:03 am

Unfortunately haven't had time to look at the horn again so took it in to a garage for its MOT and sure enough it fialed on its horn. Despite saying they would have a look at it they didn't seem in the slightest bit interested in trying to sort it when I got there.

Anyway, the strange this was, while there it started working again although very quietly when the switch was half pressed down. They assure me that based on this the problem must be the switch. So I wen home and fanny'd about with the switch a bit and it got a bit louder. I then put the unit back together, left if for a while and its stopped working altogether again.

This really is starting to piss me off, its not even like I use the horn. If only it was an advisory rather than a fail! I also checked whether I could just fit a hooter but apparently the bike has to be a lot older to get away with that....worth a try though.

edited to add, Syltiz, I'v dropped you a PM.

Thanks,

Phill

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#25 Post by Big_AL » Thu Jun 19, 2008 11:26 am

you can prove it's the switch by shorting across the switch contacts with a bit of wire and check the horn sounds okay. If so, simply replace the switch - 5 min job as long as you have a soldering iron that is.

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#26 Post by phillvr6 » Thu Jun 19, 2008 11:40 am

Al,
Just tried that and its now completely dead, not a peep! Don't you just love intermitent faults!

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#27 Post by Firestarter » Thu Jun 19, 2008 12:03 pm

Mine failed the MOT on the horn not working as well - it was working the week before, but not the week before that - again, an intermittent fault, but it was definitely the horn itself, I took it off and wired it directly to the battery and got nothing. I replaced it in the end - got a 2nd hand one off of evilbay from an RSV.

Wired that directly to the battery as well to check it - boy they're loud when you're stood next to them without earplugs in and not entirely expecting it! :smt003

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#28 Post by phillvr6 » Thu Jun 19, 2008 12:24 pm

If only it was that simple, already tried swapping the horn with no joy.

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#29 Post by Firestarter » Thu Jun 19, 2008 1:45 pm

If you've tried a swap, and checked the switch, check the wiring coming from the switch, depending on how it's routed from the bars, it may be over-extended and have broken one of the cores

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Parp!

#30 Post by phillvr6 » Tue Jun 24, 2008 7:54 pm

back_marker wrote:
If the horn does not work either way with either horn then you either have 2 duff horns (unlikely but possible)
Bingo! Many thanks to syltiz and his mate who tested the various circuits only for us to try a 3rd horn and find my brand new horn was also faulty.

Even more thanks for pulling the horn off his scooter so I can get the bike MOT'd. I'm actually getting a bit attached to it.

Parp parp!!!

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