Swing arm adjustment
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- Clubman Racer
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Swing arm adjustment
In the Falco service manual (section 2.30) there is mention of adjusting the rear fork if there is any slack.
It gives a torque figure of 12Nm for the adjuster bolt.
When I swapped my swing-arm for the one I got off Keith I did the bolt up to 12Nm but found there was still free play. So I 'adjusted' it further to the point where I couldn't feel any free play and the arm still moved freely up and down.
I've just done the same with my girlfriend's SV. Taking it to 15Nm as specified in the manual left it with play so I carefully did it up tighter until there was no free play but the arm still moves easily. It was around an extra 1/4 turn.
I don't know if this was the right thing to do in either case. I find it contradictory that the Falco service manual calls it an 'adjuster' and specifies an exact torque - to my mind adjustment is a process of gradual feedback as opposed to tightening something up to a given torque.
Have I done the right thing or do both bikes need new bearings?
It gives a torque figure of 12Nm for the adjuster bolt.
When I swapped my swing-arm for the one I got off Keith I did the bolt up to 12Nm but found there was still free play. So I 'adjusted' it further to the point where I couldn't feel any free play and the arm still moved freely up and down.
I've just done the same with my girlfriend's SV. Taking it to 15Nm as specified in the manual left it with play so I carefully did it up tighter until there was no free play but the arm still moves easily. It was around an extra 1/4 turn.
I don't know if this was the right thing to do in either case. I find it contradictory that the Falco service manual calls it an 'adjuster' and specifies an exact torque - to my mind adjustment is a process of gradual feedback as opposed to tightening something up to a given torque.
Have I done the right thing or do both bikes need new bearings?
Insert humourous comment here
This is unexplored territory to me having never had to mess with bearings ( only bushes )
Two thoughts spring to mind...
Can you verify the accuracy of your torque wrench as we are dealing with very small increments ( did you set the wrench on a lower setting and gradually work up to the setting ect. ?)
If what you have done works and remains workable with no noticeable play returning in a short time then what you have done works, the figures are ball park figures.
As you say the Falc describes 'an adjuster' so if it is adjustable then how can you have a fixed figure for that ?
Two thoughts spring to mind...
Can you verify the accuracy of your torque wrench as we are dealing with very small increments ( did you set the wrench on a lower setting and gradually work up to the setting ect. ?)
If what you have done works and remains workable with no noticeable play returning in a short time then what you have done works, the figures are ball park figures.
As you say the Falc describes 'an adjuster' so if it is adjustable then how can you have a fixed figure for that ?
Cleverly disguised as an adult !
- blinkey501
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Granted my torque wrenches may not be the most accurate things in the world although nothing breaks / falls off / or is stripped of threads when I use them.fatboy wrote:As you say the Falc describes 'an adjuster' so if it is adjustable then how can you have a fixed figure for that ?
I've been trying to find out how an axial load (i.e. a force along the direction of the swingarm pivot bolt) can make any difference to a couple of needle roller bearings in the first place.
Like you say though, if it works...
The swingarm to the frame. Even I wouldn't try taking the play out of the swingarm with the chain adjusters and that's saying something!blinkey501 wrote:Are you talking about the adjuster that fastens the swingarm to the frame?
Or the adjusters that tension the chain?
Insert humourous comment here
Any type of bearing, be it ball,needle, roller or bush works best within specified clearance limits.
When those limits are exceeded then the load transfers from axial to torsional, you now have side to side play.
If you were to put a pencil in a snug fitting tube and leave a small amount protruding from the end it will be difficult to snap the pencil,put the same pencil in a larger tube and its easy to snap ect.
Even a regrease can give bearings an extended life, hope it works !
When those limits are exceeded then the load transfers from axial to torsional, you now have side to side play.
If you were to put a pencil in a snug fitting tube and leave a small amount protruding from the end it will be difficult to snap the pencil,put the same pencil in a larger tube and its easy to snap ect.
Even a regrease can give bearings an extended life, hope it works !
Cleverly disguised as an adult !
- blinkey501
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Hi mate.spiderwheels wrote:Granted my torque wrenches may not be the most accurate things in the world although nothing breaks / falls off / or is stripped of threads when I use them.fatboy wrote:As you say the Falc describes 'an adjuster' so if it is adjustable then how can you have a fixed figure for that ?
I've been trying to find out how an axial load (i.e. a force along the direction of the swingarm pivot bolt) can make any difference to a couple of needle roller bearings in the first place.
Like you say though, if it works...
The swingarm to the frame. Even I wouldn't try taking the play out of the swingarm with the chain adjusters and that's saying something!blinkey501 wrote:Are you talking about the adjuster that fastens the swingarm to the frame?
Or the adjusters that tension the chain?
Not all have mechanical skills, and I wanted to establish what you was talking about.
If you have mechanical skill, then ditch the torque wrench, and turn the adjuster against the bearing with the allen key in the axle pin..
Keep moving the swingarm side to side, and the axle pin with the adjuster until there is no side ways movement.
There needs to be just enough pressure on the side of the bearing to prevent movement, before locking the adjuster off with the castle nut.
Tolerance will be our undoing.
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OK, makes sense ta!fatboy wrote:Any type of bearing, be it ball,needle, roller or bush works best within specified clearance limits.
When those limits are exceeded then the load transfers from axial to torsional, you now have side to side play.
I don't think they've been crushed. The arm still moves freely and smoothly.Gio wrote:I've know it where a set of ball races were crushed oval with to much tightening
That's exactly what I did before I posted this thread. I was just trying to ascertain if it was a bad idea or not.blinkey501 wrote: If you have mechanical skill, then ditch the torque wrench, and turn the adjuster against the bearing with the allen key in the axle pin..
Keep moving the swingarm side to side, and the axle pin with the adjuster until there is no side ways movement.
There needs to be just enough pressure on the side of the bearing to prevent movement, before locking the adjuster off with the castle nut.
Insert humourous comment here
- blinkey501
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No it's fine.spiderwheels wrote:OK, makes sense ta!fatboy wrote:Any type of bearing, be it ball,needle, roller or bush works best within specified clearance limits.
When those limits are exceeded then the load transfers from axial to torsional, you now have side to side play.
I don't think they've been crushed. The arm still moves freely and smoothly.Gio wrote:I've know it where a set of ball races were crushed oval with to much tightening
That's exactly what I did before I posted this thread. I was just trying to ascertain if it was a bad idea or not.blinkey501 wrote: If you have mechanical skill, then ditch the torque wrench, and turn the adjuster against the bearing with the allen key in the axle pin..
Keep moving the swingarm side to side, and the axle pin with the adjuster until there is no side ways movement.
There needs to be just enough pressure on the side of the bearing to prevent movement, before locking the adjuster off with the castle nut.
I have done 3 now with no issues.
Tolerance will be our undoing.
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- Clubman Racer
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