Clutch slave cylinder

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Tipper2 · #1 Post by **Tipper2** » Mon Sep 19, 2016 9:54 pm

Has anyone tried these? My clutch is killing my already knackered hand and it needs to be lighter.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/APRILIA-BILLE ... XQBg5Rn~6a

On another note I finally got my ex-rsv ohlins shock fitted yesterday- what a tranformation! Much smoother ride and not trying to sit-up in corners. Just remains to be seen if my arse still gets numb after an hour :)

flatlander · #2 Post by **flatlander** » Tue Sep 20, 2016 5:59 am

Not me skipper i believe that over on and factory racing are fairly standard choices has tge clutch jet been done?

Falco Frank · #3 Post by **Falco Frank** » Tue Sep 20, 2016 12:35 pm

I went with an MPL (germany) unit that is still going strong - I think Oberon also do a unit.

http://www.mpl-tuningparts.de/english/shop.html

http://www.oberon-performance.co.uk/aca ... _ACSC.html

wayno · #4 Post by **wayno** » Tue Sep 20, 2016 1:52 pm

I had a factory racing one on mine, but don't expect it to transform things, the clutch is still damn heavy.

fatboy · #5 Post by **fatboy** » Wed Sep 21, 2016 6:38 pm

I also have an MPL Tuning save cylinder on mine, no complaints.
Most of the aftermarket ones have a larger piston/body so should make clutch effort a bit easier.
You will need a different sprocket cover if you buy an aftermarket slave cylinder.
Every bike is different as is every opinion...
I found the MPL made the clutch action lighter even with a Barnett racing clutch with nasty duty springs.
Think some of the earlier RSV ones will fit but check with a grown up first

#6 Post by **mangocrazy** » Wed Sep 21, 2016 10:13 pm

I fitted an MPL one very early in my ownership, and it certainly made the clutch lighter, but the biggest improvement was made by adjusting the angle of the clutch lever so that you could draw a straight line down my forearm, through my wrist and onto my fingers draped over the clutch.

As standard the angle of the clutch lever is noticeably 'kicked up', meaning you don't get a straight pull on the clutch lever. I also seem to remember that the clutch lever is restricted in its scale of rotation by the LH switchgear, which in turn is held in place on the bars by a brass insert. Get rid of the brass insert and you can adjust the switchgear and lever how you like.

I heated the brass insert on mine with a soldering iron until the plastic melted sufficiently to allow the brass pip to be pulled out with a pair of pliers.

Tipper2 · #7 Post by **Tipper2** » Thu Sep 22, 2016 7:29 am

That's given me a bit to think about, thanks.

I'm probably going to change the slave cylinder and will also have a look at the clutch jet (though I can get neutral without any probs) and lever angle.

wayno · #8 Post by **wayno** » Thu Sep 22, 2016 8:56 am

It's definitely worth doing as the cost is relatively small, I just wanted to warn you that the clutch won't transform into a feather light action, but it is certainly better. It's also a good excuse to clear out a couple of thousand miles of chain lube crud when you swap the sprocket cover.

Tipper2 · #9 Post by **Tipper2** » Tue Jan 10, 2017 9:11 am

I finally got around to fitting an Oberon slave cylinder yesterday.

Before fitting I checked the clutch pull with a spring balance and it took around 13kg for full travel of the clutch lever (I know it's not particularly scientific but I just wanted an indication).

With the Oberon it took around 10kg to full travel- result!

The clutch is still stiffer than anything Japanese I've owned but any improvement is a bonus.