New Falco project - body parts wanted

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highlander · #1 Post by **highlander** » Tue Aug 25, 2015 3:17 pm

Hello eveyone!

I have just bought a Falco 'project' bike which fell on it's left side and needs a lot of new bodywork. Looking for anyone with spares or even suggestions for alternatives or better sources than e.g. fowlers before I put together an ebay shopping list.

I am aiming for good 2nd hand where possible and respray them all to a new colour to the standard shape. Doesn't have to be pin perfect but also not going for a hang-dog streetfighter look!

I had a caponord before and loved that engine. With remus pipes sounded like a fat bloke farting in the tub, lovely popping on the overrun too!! Got this Falco to have a faster, lighter version.

The bike is generally in nice clean condition with 22k miles but so far from disassembly I see I need the following:

1. Headlight unit - one of the upper tabs is snapped and with the weight it holds I am not sure if any kind of plasti-fix would be appropriate. The rest of the unit is fine so I'm a little reticent to throw it away
I had a look at part number for a futura headlight since they look similar but they are diff partnos, anyone know if there's a handy x-over which may broaden parts available to me??
2. top main front fairing (lugs broken)
3. LH wing mirror
4. middle left and right fairings (more broken lugs)
5. The instrument subframe is well bent but I read about the guy in Germany who straightens them for a fee, will email him to see if it is still available....
6. Front indicators snapped but I can get cheap replacements online - no worries there
7. Unfortunately the tank also has some deep grazing, I'm tempted to just get it filled and repainted, would prefer a replacement though and there don't seem to be too many around
8. rear seat fairing and single seat cover grazed too but looks like replacements available at reasonable cost, but if anyone has any knocking around ....
9. rear taillight assembly - again I can get one on ebay for £30
10. left hand switch gear - scraped and the headlight switch snapped off.

Surprisingly the aftermarket bellypan survived without cracks or breaks

Any and all advice welcome ....

thanks for help in advance

fatboy · #2 Post by **fatboy** » Tue Aug 25, 2015 4:26 pm

Hello and welcome,
A member called nooj is breaking a falc so maybe PM him.
Have you looked into having the plastics repaired?. I've seen some impressive work done on some badly beaten fairings.
Is that Fowler's in Bristol ?
If so treat them as the last resort-they are known locally as Foul ups and bloody pricey too
Good luck with the project :smt

blinkey501 · #3 Post by **blinkey501** » Tue Aug 25, 2015 7:23 pm

I straighten clock frames for a fee?

Pm me some pictures across so I can look at it?

highlander · #4 Post by **highlander** » Wed Aug 26, 2015 8:34 am

Champion guys!

I've pm'd nooj
I'll send a picture of the clock frame later today. Not badly bent but looks awkward, I'd mess it up even if I had the tools/strength to straighten it!

I am guessing for repairing plastics that broken lugs (some missing altogether), the cost in someone's time to prep, glue, sand back etc will be more than a decent 2nd hand fairing (only painting required) which looks like they are £40-£50 a go ... maybe not but I've a half day's drive to get to a guy to just look at them. Not a lot of options locally in northern Scotland!

D-Rider · #5 Post by **D-Rider** » Wed Aug 26, 2015 8:47 am

highlander wrote:Champion guys!

I've pm'd nooj
I'll send a picture of the clock frame later today. Not badly bent but looks awkward, I'd mess it up even if I had the tools/strength to straighten it!

Most of us would. It's an aluminium part and it's not an easy thing to bend back without fatiguing the material - leading to potential failure.
This is one reason that they are as rare as hens' teeth.

Welcome to the forum.

highlander · #6 Post by **highlander** » Wed Aug 26, 2015 12:53 pm

Really?
a bit more dismantling to get the clock subframe out ... and the bolts through are too long to come out without removing the right fork leg.
I have to disassemble the whole front end to get the subframe off? Really?

My set up is very ad hoc in a shipping container - this will be tricky and need a couple more stands/jacks ...

Tucking that loom back together afterwards might take some time too ...

I just finished refurbishing my trx 850 and that front end went together in five minutes. This is a different level the way they've tucked everything away.

Some stuff to learn on this bike ...

Dalemac · #7 Post by **Dalemac** » Wed Aug 26, 2015 1:10 pm

I can't say I have ever tried to remove it myself.

I presume you have tried moving the bars to see if you can get any better clearance on opposite lock?

It might have something in the workshop manual, which can be found here: http://martinpoll.dk/div_april.htm

Obiwan Kenobi · #8 Post by **Obiwan Kenobi** » Wed Aug 26, 2015 3:12 pm

'ey up, would that be the Highlander I know from the TRX850.com forum?

If so, virtual handshake to you from Obiwan Kenobe (aka Trixynut on abovementioned site...)

Cant help with your project though, but if you're planning tweaks to it and it comes out as well as your TRX did, then it'll be a good 'un.

Dave.

highlander · #9 Post by **highlander** » Wed Aug 26, 2015 4:03 pm

Obiwan Kenobi wrote:'ey up, would that be the Highlander I know from the TRX850.com forum?

If so, virtual handshake to you from Obiwan Kenobe (aka Trixynut on abovementioned site...)

Dave.

Aye, same old Highlander. I need to updated my project post over at the trx forum...

Well, well, Trixynut - we must both be addicted to twins.
Ironically bikes aren't my only twins, they're everywhere!!!

highlander · #10 Post by **highlander** » Thu Aug 27, 2015 12:05 pm

Dalemac wrote: I presume you have tried moving the bars to see if you can get any better clearance on opposite lock?

Sometimes my shorthsightedness depresses me

- yes they remove easily on opposite lock!

Dalemac · #11 Post by **Dalemac** » Thu Aug 27, 2015 12:49 pm

highlander wrote:
Dalemac wrote: I presume you have tried moving the bars to see if you can get any better clearance on opposite lock?
Sometimes my shorthsightedness depresses me - yes they remove easily on opposite lock!

Haha, no worries, we all have moments like that! Much better than removing the entire front end ;)

highlander · #12 Post by **highlander** » Sat Oct 10, 2015 10:31 am

So I ended up buying replacement panels for anything with broken lugs and talking it down to a professional bike painter to see how good a job they can make of matching colours.

He ain't cheap!!

A local company was asking about 800 pounds for 5 panels and that not even for the original colour but a close match from a car!

We'll see how he does and I'll either swear off custom painters forever or swear by them.
Just shows how *relatively* reasonable buying 2nd hand parts off ebay is even at 50-100 pounds a time.

Just to experiment I got some JB weld and started 'gluing' lugs and broken bits back together - that's strong stuff! As in I'd trust it to hold structurally after reassembly. If I get really bored I'll have a go at bringing those panels back to looking half decent.

Good front upper (main) fairings seem to be hardest to come by. There is a guy in Poland who makes aftermarket ones but I didn't risk that in the end.

Lesson learned - project with only cosmetic/plastics damage is still bloody expensive to repair unles you don't mind a colours of benetton themed bike or manage to pick up a set in a single colour