Chat for Falco Owners.
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D-Rider
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#16
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by D-Rider » Tue Mar 10, 2015 5:06 pm
mrapriliafalco wrote:I can't see how it would work from a jump start if the relay was knackered
Depends what you mean by "knackered"
A build up of oxide on the power contacts will increase the impedance in the circuit.
If you have less internal impedance in your jump-start source, then the total impedance might be sufficiently low to let it start.
Were talking marginal situations here.
“Scientists investigate that which already is. Engineers create that which has never been.”
-- Albert Einstein
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fatboy
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#17
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by fatboy » Tue Mar 10, 2015 7:31 pm
Think d-r is pointing you in the right direction, you need to check all pos and neg connections from battery to starter relay to starter motor. You also must check main earth to frame connection.
Any of the above that are loose or dirty can cause you the problems you're having.
Check your battery voltage after attempting to start, if it remains above 12 volts then the battery is prob OK.
If you are checking/cleaning connections don't forget to disconnect battery first !
Cleverly disguised as an adult !
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mrapriliafalco
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#18
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by mrapriliafalco » Tue Mar 10, 2015 7:48 pm
Thanks Lads
Can someone explain how a 150 amp solenoid works better??? don't it need 3x the power of a 50 to do the same job
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flatlander
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#19
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by flatlander » Tue Mar 10, 2015 9:03 pm
It just does! ;)
For the avoidance of doubt and for the benefit of my wife, not everything I may say here will be absolutely true I may on ocassion embellish a little for effect.
That said when it comes to motorbikes, I like to ride side saddle with a nice frock
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D-Rider
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#21
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by D-Rider » Tue Mar 10, 2015 9:18 pm
Hmmm.
A 150A solenoid is overkill - though it might be better (I know that sounds strange)
A 150A solenoid can cope with 150A flowing through it for a significant (specified) period of time.
The starter motor will not draw that much current (well only for the briefest instant before it starts to spin ... and that's not an issue). A decent 50A solenoid would probably have been OK (the early bikes had 50A solenoids) a good 100A solenoid is fine (the later bikes got 100A solenoids)
What you are really after is a solenoid with low contact impedance and contacts that will not degrade too readily.
The standard relay seems to be one with poor quality contacts.
“Scientists investigate that which already is. Engineers create that which has never been.”
-- Albert Einstein
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D-Rider
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#22
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by D-Rider » Tue Mar 10, 2015 9:20 pm
BTW although we've been looking at other parts of the starting circuit, I'm not saying the battery is necessarily OK. It is another candidate for suspicion.
“Scientists investigate that which already is. Engineers create that which has never been.”
-- Albert Einstein
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mrapriliafalco
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#23
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by mrapriliafalco » Fri Mar 13, 2015 2:06 pm
Thanks for all the advice lads
Bought one of them yellow motorbatts and she fired up straight away
Happy days,got one for £45
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D-Rider
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#24
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by D-Rider » Fri Mar 13, 2015 2:09 pm
mrapriliafalco wrote:Thanks for all the advice lads
Bought one of them yellow motorbatts and she fired up straight away
Happy days,got one for £45

“Scientists investigate that which already is. Engineers create that which has never been.”
-- Albert Einstein
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randomsquid
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#25
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by randomsquid » Fri Mar 13, 2015 7:09 pm
mrapriliafalco wrote:Thanks for all the advice lads
Bought one of them yellow motorbatts and she fired up straight away
Happy days,got one for £45
I've got one ready to go on when it gets a bit warmer. I've had a couple on other bikes and rate them.
Where ever I lay my hat.....