Neutral Problems

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blinkey501
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#16 Post by blinkey501 » Wed Jul 02, 2014 4:50 am

mangocrazy wrote:This relates to bleeding the rear brake, but the principle works in any situation involving hydraulics/brake fluid; get the bleed nipple at the highest point of the circuit and success is pretty much guaranteed:
mangocrazy wrote:Following on from Mart's guide for the Fut, I enclose a (hopefully self-explanatory) picture for the Falco (and probably RSV, Mille and Tuono). The rear brakes on these bikes have a well-deserved reputation as being a bit of a twat to bleed. I believe my method simplifies this greatly and makes it pretty much foolproof.

First of all, the picture:

Image

For this procedure, you will need:

1. An M8 x 120mm bolt
2. Sleeving/tube with an 8mm internal diameter, approx 100mm in length
3. A jar/container of some description
4. Brake fluid
5. Clear plastic hose of the correct internal diameter to fit snugly on a Brembo bleed nipple
6. An 11mm ring/open end spanner (to fit bleed nipple)
7. A 10mm socket or ring/open end spanner
8. A suitable size spanner/socket/screwdriver to fit the M8 x 120mm bolt mentioned earlier.
9. A piece of wood approx 120mm x 40mm x6mm to interpose between the brake pads
10. A rubber band, if you're a belt and braces kinda chap

Method:

1. Remove rear caliper from its carrier by undoing the two M8 x 20mm hex bolts (10mm head).

2. Place the piece of wood between the pads and secure in place using rubber band

3. Undo the front of the two M8 bolts (10mm head) holding the offside passenger footrest bracket to the subframe

4. Take your M8 x 120mm bolt and pass through the caliper mounting hole closest to the bleed nipple, as shown in the photo.

5. Take your sleeving/tube and place over the bolt. I used 10mm stainless tubing with 1mm wall thickness that I happened to have around. Similar sized copper or steel tubing would also be perfect.

6. Bolt this arrangement to the footrest mounting bracket hole as shown in the photo, ensuring that the bleed nipple is at the highest point and the brake hose is not twisted (both these points are important to successful operation).

7. Attach plastic bleed tubing to bleed nipple as shown, and ensure that the other end of the tubing ends inside your chosen container.

8. Without undoing the bleed nipple, pump the brake lever firmly two or three times. Tap the caliper and brake hose to encourage any bubbles to free themselves and rise upwards.

9. Walk away, lock the garage/shed door and leave overnight for gravity to work its magic.

10. Next day, bleed brakes as usual. Marvel at how firm pedal feel is obtained after only a few minutes.

11. Undo M8 x 120mm bolt and wooden block and re-fit caliper to carrier. Torque bolts to correct value. Re-attach footrest bracket bolt and torque to correct value.

12. Buy me a beer next time you see me.

That is all.
Nice write up Graham. Repost it in the technical section? :smt002
Tolerance will be our undoing.

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mangocrazy
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#17 Post by mangocrazy » Wed Jul 02, 2014 6:25 pm

Already there - I just copied it from the 'Bleeding the Hydraulics' thread in Aprilia Technical.

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blinkey501
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#18 Post by blinkey501 » Wed Jul 02, 2014 8:46 pm

mangocrazy wrote:Already there - I just copied it from the 'Bleeding the Hydraulics' thread in Aprilia Technical.
Gotcha :smt002
Tolerance will be our undoing.

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