Cam chain tensioner service

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Yellowperil
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Cam chain tensioner service

#1 Post by Yellowperil » Tue Mar 04, 2014 10:49 pm

My falco has distinct rattle, I believe it's the cam chain tensioner because I've checked the shims and there within range!
I understand the cam chain tensioner is hydraulic self adjusting, but Is there a way in which to test it's effectiveness?
My first thoughts were just to remove the valve covers and turn the engine over on the starter to observe the operation of the tensioners but I'm unsure if this is wise as I mave get oil everywhere!

Can someone point me in the right direction, a simple what to check for and where to observe would be awesome :)

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blinkey501
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#2 Post by blinkey501 » Wed Mar 05, 2014 7:39 am

Not sure about the tensioner. but if your worried about getting oil everywhere, remove the plug caps so the bike won't start? :smt017
Tolerance will be our undoing.

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#3 Post by D-Rider » Wed Mar 05, 2014 8:21 am

blinkey501 wrote:Not sure about the tensioner. but if your worried about getting oil everywhere, remove the plug caps so the bike won't start? :smt017
:smt005 :smt005 :smt005 :smt005

LOL that's a good one Jay




(just in case anyone hasn't twigged this one, if it doesn't start you'll get no oil pressure so the hydraulic tensioners won't operate)


Back to the question - no direct experience of this but I do recall reading about it somewhere ..... might have been on AF1.
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Dalemac
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#4 Post by Dalemac » Wed Mar 05, 2014 3:07 pm

These engines are inherently noisy.

I replaced both tensioners in my falco a couple of years back, because i could actually hear them rattling at low rpm. Not a difficult job, just a pain in the arse to get to.

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blinkey501
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#5 Post by blinkey501 » Wed Mar 05, 2014 5:37 pm

D-Rider wrote:
blinkey501 wrote:Not sure about the tensioner. but if your worried about getting oil everywhere, remove the plug caps so the bike won't start? :smt017
:smt005 :smt005 :smt005 :smt005

LOL that's a good one Jay




(just in case anyone hasn't twigged this one, if it doesn't start you'll get no oil pressure so the hydraulic tensioners won't operate)


Back to the question - no direct experience of this but I do recall reading about it somewhere ..... might have been on AF1.
Really? So with the engine turning over the oil pump doesn't work?
I think the joke is on you mate. :smt023
Tolerance will be our undoing.

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#6 Post by fatboy » Wed Mar 05, 2014 7:33 pm

Yes you will get some oil pressure just turning over BUT will this be sufficient pressure to operate the tensioners ?
May be worth noting that on starting the oil pressure is initially high because of the viscosity of cold oil, then pressure drops as it warms so by the time you're ready to put your lid on you may hear some chain rattle.
Cover the end cans with a bit of rag, pic the rpm up to 2000 and see if you can still hear said rattle ( at working temp )
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blinkey501
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#7 Post by blinkey501 » Wed Mar 05, 2014 10:09 pm

fatboy wrote:Yes you will get some oil pressure just turning over BUT will this be sufficient pressure to operate the tensioners ?
Yes I think so. The pump is a high pressure unit after all.
Tolerance will be our undoing.

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#8 Post by D-Rider » Wed Mar 05, 2014 10:46 pm

fatboy wrote:Yes you will get some oil pressure just turning over BUT will this be sufficient pressure to operate the tensioners ?
Most unlikely - though if it did, you'd still get oil everywhere
“Scientists investigate that which already is. Engineers create that which has never been.”
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blinkey501
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#9 Post by blinkey501 » Thu Mar 06, 2014 5:59 am

D-Rider wrote:
fatboy wrote:Yes you will get some oil pressure just turning over BUT will this be sufficient pressure to operate the tensioners ?
Most unlikely - though if it did, you'd still get oil everywhere

Really? :smt017
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Dalemac
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#10 Post by Dalemac » Thu Mar 06, 2014 9:36 am

When I replaced my tensioners I didn't know you should prime them with oil before installing them into the engine - so there was absolutely on oil in the tensioners and it sounded horrible. I ended up turning the engine over without a spark plug in each cylinder (didn't know this was bad on a falco at the time) and after a a couple of turns the tensioners primed up and bad sounds went away.

So yes, there is definitely enough oil pressure to prime the tensioners just by turning the engine over.

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#11 Post by D-Rider » Thu Mar 06, 2014 10:43 am

OK - fair enough

:smt004
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#12 Post by Yellowperil » Fri Mar 07, 2014 2:07 pm

I notice the sound more a low rpm but I get a lot more rattle when I try to pull away from 2'500 so could this be slack cam chains or just a typical loaded engine rattle!

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#13 Post by blinkey501 » Fri Mar 07, 2014 3:14 pm

Yellowperil wrote:I notice the sound more a low rpm but I get a lot more rattle when I try to pull away from 2'500 so could this be slack cam chains or just a typical loaded engine rattle!
These engines do rattle though mate.
Tolerance will be our undoing.

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#14 Post by randomsquid » Fri Mar 07, 2014 5:40 pm

blinkey501 wrote:
Yellowperil wrote:I notice the sound more a low rpm but I get a lot more rattle when I try to pull away from 2'500 so could this be slack cam chains or just a typical loaded engine rattle!
These engines do rattle though mate.
Mine rustles rather than rattles. Then again I'm typically at 4k revs or higher. It is a bit clanky if you open it up from low revs.
Where ever I lay my hat.....

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#15 Post by Dalemac » Fri Mar 07, 2014 9:12 pm

randomsquid wrote:
blinkey501 wrote:
Yellowperil wrote:I notice the sound more a low rpm but I get a lot more rattle when I try to pull away from 2'500 so could this be slack cam chains or just a typical loaded engine rattle!
These engines do rattle though mate.
Mine rustles rather than rattles. Then again I'm typically at 4k revs or higher. It is a bit clanky if you open it up from low revs.
Dear in mind the manual specifically warns to change down before rapid acceleration ;)

Replacing the tensioners isn't especially hard, its just a bit fiddly. You would need an extendable socket set and some universal joints.

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