Air box mod and wiring mod.

Message

ROCKOZ · #16 Post by **ROCKOZ** » Sun Feb 24, 2013 8:00 pm

Kwackerz wrote:Yeah it comes in via those, fed up into the filter that is held down by the top of the airbox. so in theory there's a what.. 2" circle of plastic that can be played with on the top of the airbox. everyone cuts away around it to utilise the standard filter shape, what has been suggested is reversing the bit that gets cut away.. so instead of cutting away 80% of the top lid of the airbox, leaving a 2-3" circle over the filter, you keep the box and cut the 2-3" circle away..

if you see what I mean

that's the normal cutaway.. (where they add a sealstrip at the edge)

Nail.....head!
Question is will it work or would you loose air as its pulled into the filter then lost out the hole I'd have cut in the top rather than being sucked in adding the desired effect.......

#17 Post by **Kwackerz** » Sun Feb 24, 2013 8:18 pm

I guess for the cost of a replacement/redundant airbox lid it's worth a shot.

I have a feeling there'll be some sort of venturi formed which will work the opposite way.. maybe.. although maybe with the smaller holes at the top and /or filter foam added that may stop one forming..

the worst that can happen is you'll have to tape up a 2" hole in the airbox lid..

#18 Post by **Kwackerz** » Sun Feb 24, 2013 8:29 pm

you could always direct the air on the top of the airbox.. so it does ''ram'' it in rather than suck it in as it passes over the holes.. suitably placed foam like the tank seal in the yellow mille pic, but stuck in a semicircle under the tank so it squidges between the tank and airbox lid. capturing the air so it is directed into the 2" hole...

maybe..

I'd love to see the Noale research that went into the airbox as well as comparing the research between that for the RSVR and the SP.. The airflow research would be interesting if they had flow diagrams with pressures, etc.. especially for outside of the airbox itself..

Cathcart · #19 Post by **Cathcart** » Sun Feb 24, 2013 9:09 pm

My bad, I get what you mean now.

davebms · #20 Post by **davebms** » Mon Feb 25, 2013 4:54 am

well yes that will poss let more air into the filter !!
but in posts various and internet info (that can be a danger)

its not the air in thats the problem (tha filter size is ok)
its the air box thats to small for a 1000 ve twin

Shetland Woody · #21 Post by **Shetland Woody** » Mon Feb 25, 2013 8:13 pm

May work, may not. Probably well worth a shot, if it did work all good and well but I'd presume you won't get that extra induction roar you'll get from the 80% lid removal. That's mainly why I'm in the process of doing mine. As the little boy from shrek says.......do the roar lol + I can enable the second map on my Gabro chip

old git · #22 Post by **old git** » Tue Feb 26, 2013 7:36 am

http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/show ... x+mod+hole

Hole in the lid has been done, above should link through, post no. 9

D-Rider · #23 Post by **D-Rider** » Tue Feb 26, 2013 9:20 am

The plan I had also involved a hole in the top but was somewhat more sophisticated,
I really don't think that a hole on its own is going to help at all.

ROCKOZ · #24 Post by **ROCKOZ** » Tue Feb 26, 2013 10:41 am

Post 9 it is...not much was said about it TBh and I'm starting to wonder if there's any point. From that thread there it almost seems that not doing any sort of mod is better anyway...other than induction noise....hmmm

I want induction noise...bloody chav.

Aladinsaneuk · #25 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Tue Feb 26, 2013 3:18 pm

i can assure you the evo and renegade mods are effective - 5bhp on average

the noise is very addictive on the renegade ones...

Dalemac · #26 Post by **Dalemac** » Tue Feb 26, 2013 3:34 pm

I have most of the stuff at home to do the evo mod but i haven't got round to actually doing it yet.

A more pressing concern for me is the expanding tank. After replacing the plugs last week i could not get the bolts back in and had to remove the bracket and file down. It's getting to the point on mine where i need to start thinking about making a custom mount up.

Dale

#27 Post by **Kwackerz** » Tue Feb 26, 2013 7:32 pm

Agreed Dale. My tank has ripples.. and not from my fat frame pushing forward under hard deceleration.. It is worrying. I'm going to buy another tank and treat it as Hampshire's finest did..

Dalemac · #28 Post by **Dalemac** » Tue Feb 26, 2013 11:28 pm

Kwackerz wrote:Agreed Dale. My tank has ripples.. and not from my fat frame pushing forward under hard deceleration.. It is worrying. I'm going to buy another tank and treat it as Hampshire's finest did..

A new tank is probably overkill though? and probably expensive. Second hand ones could have suffered from the same ethanol issue that all ours are.

the mount is pretty simple and would be doable pretty easily I think.

When I get some time I will mock up a replacement. May even do a little production run if people are interested.

Aladinsaneuk · #29 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Tue Feb 26, 2013 11:39 pm

I think that a drained tank returns to normal size inside 6 months

So, logic dictates buy a second hand tank, drain it, store it and swap over every 6 months....

Dalemac · #30 Post by **Dalemac** » Tue Feb 26, 2013 11:55 pm

Aladinsaneuk wrote:I think that a drained tank returns to normal size inside 6 months

So, logic dictates buy a second hand tank, drain it, store it and swap over every 6 months....

Bit of a faff though. Surely there is a point where the expanding stops?