Mmm, at first I thought it will be a different shape but then again, the tank still has to shape around the same air box and engine so will probably be very similar on the underside. Granted its totally different on top. You'll not go wrong either way I'd have said.falcomunky wrote:
Notice how the first link profile stands up near-vertical while the second is more of a horizontal profile. The link you posted bigun(showing the Mille AB mod) has the latter horizontal style. I assume that the Falco tank differs from the Mille tank underneath (as it does up-top) so anyone know if that means one profile works for the Mille, the other for the Falco?...![]()
Need to get all this worked out before I fire-up the Dremel (I only have one AB!)...
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I too was lucky enough to pick up a +10 chip. I was buying a few bits from a forum member and he asked me what it was.Aladinsaneuk wrote:
I lucked onto my +10 chip a while ago....
Tbh i was'nt sure so rang the oricle. Not sure if i will be fitting it

The bike rides ok but not sure if i have fitted it if there is any gains....Power? Better fueling? smoother running? All 3 maybe?
Tolerance will be our undoing.
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Well, my Renes need repacking.
They have started blowing the end cap sealant out so I'd best get on and sort em!
Question: As Rene are no more, what type of packing material should I get? I have seen various grades/thickness of the 'wool' but I'm unsure as to which I should get? Also, will normal DIY/household type silicone work ok or will I need High Temp silicone (RTV?)?
I reckon I'll need silicone (of some description), wool (what type and quantity?) and gloves.
Anything else?
I've never repacked an end can before, though after reading here: http://www.rahji.com/wordpress/2007/05/ ... repacking/ It doesn't seem like too much of a difficult job...

They have started blowing the end cap sealant out so I'd best get on and sort em!
Question: As Rene are no more, what type of packing material should I get? I have seen various grades/thickness of the 'wool' but I'm unsure as to which I should get? Also, will normal DIY/household type silicone work ok or will I need High Temp silicone (RTV?)?
I reckon I'll need silicone (of some description), wool (what type and quantity?) and gloves.
Anything else?

I've never repacked an end can before, though after reading here: http://www.rahji.com/wordpress/2007/05/ ... repacking/ It doesn't seem like too much of a difficult job...
Two is the magic number... ;)
Steel wool to wrap round the baffle tube,
decent packing materiel
clear household silicone.
grab some gloves from a garage forecourt.. they'll do.
It's easier to pack using wool, but less mess using sheets.
I'll dig some out on ebay that will do the job. quantity? Depends how well you pack it..
That link is a great source of info.
Points to note.. pack it evenly. if you don't you'll get hotspots along the length of the can/s which will then either heat stain, or in the case of carbon, make it brittle and a stress raiser, which will then give way when you least expect it. it looks spectacular when it blows apart.. but expensively so
when you undo the two nuts, be careful.. older renes have a habit of the two threaded bars separating from the insides.. tack weldable, of course, but it happens now and again if you start graunching them about
decent packing materiel
clear household silicone.
grab some gloves from a garage forecourt.. they'll do.
It's easier to pack using wool, but less mess using sheets.
I'll dig some out on ebay that will do the job. quantity? Depends how well you pack it..
That link is a great source of info.
Points to note.. pack it evenly. if you don't you'll get hotspots along the length of the can/s which will then either heat stain, or in the case of carbon, make it brittle and a stress raiser, which will then give way when you least expect it. it looks spectacular when it blows apart.. but expensively so
when you undo the two nuts, be careful.. older renes have a habit of the two threaded bars separating from the insides.. tack weldable, of course, but it happens now and again if you start graunching them about
Never ride faster than your guardian angel can fly
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-Ste ... 4ac08fa185
That should be enough for two cans. wrap tightly and with overlapping turns.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Acousta-Fil-E ... 5d380ccecb
Looks an interesting option, but being a purist i'd stick with the method I know that wont alter the classic rene sound.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Easy-Pack-Loo ... 5d2be773ae for loose stuff..
or
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EXHAUST-WADDI ... 4ac108ada1
for the sheet stuff
it is hard to quantify.. If I was to order, for two cans I'd probably just go for one wire wool, three or four of the loose and 3 of the sheet.. but.. that would be with a view to have extra left over for packing them again in a further 10-15000 miles
I never had that problem.. I had Rene's supply to use.
and yes H&S dictates gloves glasses, suit and a decent mask

That should be enough for two cans. wrap tightly and with overlapping turns.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Acousta-Fil-E ... 5d380ccecb
Looks an interesting option, but being a purist i'd stick with the method I know that wont alter the classic rene sound.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Easy-Pack-Loo ... 5d2be773ae for loose stuff..
or
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EXHAUST-WADDI ... 4ac108ada1
for the sheet stuff
it is hard to quantify.. If I was to order, for two cans I'd probably just go for one wire wool, three or four of the loose and 3 of the sheet.. but.. that would be with a view to have extra left over for packing them again in a further 10-15000 miles
I never had that problem.. I had Rene's supply to use.

and yes H&S dictates gloves glasses, suit and a decent mask

Never ride faster than your guardian angel can fly
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Many thanks Kwackerz!
Think I'll go with the sheets tbh. Less mess as well as more chance of even distribution throughout the can imo.
So, once the cans are stripped and cleaned, I simply wind on some wire wool (roughly how much per can: One layer? Two? Ten!?), lockwire it down and then wind on some packing sheet til I reach the outer wall diameter?
Then reassemble, silicone sealing as required?

Think I'll go with the sheets tbh. Less mess as well as more chance of even distribution throughout the can imo.
So, once the cans are stripped and cleaned, I simply wind on some wire wool (roughly how much per can: One layer? Two? Ten!?), lockwire it down and then wind on some packing sheet til I reach the outer wall diameter?
Then reassemble, silicone sealing as required?

Two is the magic number... ;)
Pretty much, yes.
The wire wool is wound over.. tightly and overlapping.. kinda providing a layer and a half of cover.. if you see what I mean.. Rene didn't lockwire the wool in place.. the packing held it in place anyways.
then yes, wrap the sheets over - make sure they cover the full length of the baffle/internals, to the point you are squeezing the end cap on snugly... Gaps fek it all up (technical term, that..) and allow gasses to flow where they shouldn't..
Small bead of silicone, not fekkin' loads like I have seen done. It doesn't need a lot, but it needs applying so it seals the caps neatly.
You can.. if you so wish.. induce popping on the overrun.. by not applying sealant to the link pipe when you replace the can on it. I never use it.. popping on the overrun is part of the whole grin factor.
Take note of the internals of the pipe.. you *can* get a feel for whether it's running right, rich bottom end..top end..etc from the soot inside.
The wire wool is wound over.. tightly and overlapping.. kinda providing a layer and a half of cover.. if you see what I mean.. Rene didn't lockwire the wool in place.. the packing held it in place anyways.
then yes, wrap the sheets over - make sure they cover the full length of the baffle/internals, to the point you are squeezing the end cap on snugly... Gaps fek it all up (technical term, that..) and allow gasses to flow where they shouldn't..
Small bead of silicone, not fekkin' loads like I have seen done. It doesn't need a lot, but it needs applying so it seals the caps neatly.
You can.. if you so wish.. induce popping on the overrun.. by not applying sealant to the link pipe when you replace the can on it. I never use it.. popping on the overrun is part of the whole grin factor.
Take note of the internals of the pipe.. you *can* get a feel for whether it's running right, rich bottom end..top end..etc from the soot inside.
Never ride faster than your guardian angel can fly