RSV Swingarm-dismantling questions?!!!!

Message

furygan man · #1 Post by **furygan man** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 7:35 pm

Hello, I've finally bought a RSV swingarm, dam salvage people neglected to tell me some of the items had stuck fast, i just need some advice below, i'm dismantling any moveable pieces before i get it powder coated...here goes

http://www.ultimateparts.net/aprilia/c. ... e-&i=18125

I've removed the swingarm pin/O rings/gasket rings and spindle nuts, what's left are the needle bearings/O rings/Gasket ring...
1) Do these come out, if so how?
2) Or should i leave them in and ask the powder coater to mask them off?

...same questions for above section where the shock goes (sorry don't know technical term!)
1) Remove?
2) Or mask off?

The chainguard bolts are stuck solid...any suggestions how to loosen and remove...or should i mask off and hope for the best when powder coating?

Alan key socket is threaded so i can't remove one of the paddock stand bobbins...is there a way of removing and still being able to use the hole for another bobbin, or shall i just leave it on and powder coat over it??

Filling- Will be heading down to Halfords to get some body filler and wet/dry paper as there's a few deep scratches here and there...will this be okay?? Let me know what else i need??

Will be asking the powder coater for his input but as ever your advise is 'golden'

Sorry for the dumb questions but it's a steep learning curve for a newbie

Aladinsaneuk · #2 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 8:09 pm

for the stuck bolts

penetrating oil and heat.... and take your time

re bearings - if it were me, i would replace them - but you may need a press or drift to get them out

(If they are in good order maybe repack with grease but while you have the swing arm out....)

oh - if you do pull them prior to coating, they will need plugging or blanking off

Falco9 · #3 Post by **Falco9** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 8:11 pm

Don't really know where to start. Bearings should be removed using the usual methods of bearing pullers, slide hammer bearing pullers (I needed one of these to remove the BMW wheel bearings) etc... Then soak everything thats seized (paddock stand bolts etc..) in plus gas and remove using again everything from impact driver to brute force.

A powder coat oven will get up to about 200 degrees c everything rubber and even nylon will melt and distort so the swinging arm should ideally be just the bare item. They will probably blast it clean themselves to thoroughly degrease it as well as dipping (thats what they did with my stuff) so the use of filler is probably a non starter as well (I could be wrong here though) Anything powder coated over will be almost impossible to remove once done

The main thing is (and this is from bitter experience) that powder coat is nothing like paint.....anything not properly & thoroughly masked off (including all threaded holes and bearing seats will get coated and its a complete bitch to remove and takes ages & ages to do (don't ask!!) In fact I reckon you couldn't remove it from a bearing seat without knackering it up

It looks like time & patience in stripping the arm down completely is the best choice prior to coating

Just my point of view of course

F9

Nooj · #4 Post by **Nooj** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 8:15 pm

Looks a bit shagged. Judging by the corrosion present I'd replace everything. I got my bearings removed by my local bike shop, chucked them a tenner for the tea fund. As for the bolts, since the swinger's off the bike the quickest easiest way is to drill them out and re-tap the holes.

F9 is right, you can't put plastic bits into a powder coating oven and can't coat over filler. If the scratching is light it'll come out with grit blasting prior to coating, if they're deep they'll need to be filled, in which case you'll be better off getting it painted with two pack which will set like rock if it's done properly. That's what I had to do with the one Paddy gave me which was severely dented (was free, so can't complain!) and it's come out like new.

Cost me a tenner to get the bearings out and £40 to get the arm and throttle bodies painted up. The painter stripped the old finish off as part of the job. Any powder coating or paint that gets where it shouldn't is easy enough to file back on flat surfaces or get out of threaded holes by re-tapping them, but it's easier not to get it everywhere to start with so pick a good finisher.

furygan man · #5 Post by **furygan man** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 8:23 pm

OMG!!!! What have i go into????

Bearings should be removed using the usual methods of bearing pullers, slide hammer bearing

-This means nothing, and sounds scary, is there a 'how to...' for this as never seen or done this before, will it be in the 'download manual'??!!

A powder coat oven will get up to about 200 degrees c everything rubber and even nylon will melt and distort so the swinging arm should ideally be just the bare item. They will probably blast it clean themselves to thoroughly degrease it as well as dipping (thats what they did with my stuff) so the use of filler is probably a non starter as well (I could be wrong here though) Anything powder coated over will be almost impossible to remove once done

The main thing is (and this is from bitter experience) that powder coat is nothing like paint.....anything not properly & thoroughly masked off (including all threaded holes and bearing seats will get coated and its a complete bitch to remove and takes ages & ages to do (don't ask!!) In fact I reckon you couldn't remove it from a bearing seat without knackering it up

...well i've learnt something there!

Then soak everything thats seized (paddock stand bolts etc..) in plus gas and remove using again everything from impact driver

...what's 'plus gas' and an 'impact driver'??

penetrating oil and heat.... and take your time

re bearings - if it were me, i would replace them - but you may need a press or drift to get them out

(If they are in good order maybe repack with grease but while you have the swing arm out....)

oh - if you do pull them prior to coating, they will need plugging or blanking off

...why do i want to cry??

...looks like it's staying as it is then!!!

furygan man · #6 Post by **furygan man** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 8:31 pm

Nooj wrote:As for the bolts, since the swinger's off the bike the quickest easiest way is to drill them out and re-tap the holes

what's re-tapping Nooj??

thanks for the replies...looks like i've cocked up again!!!

Nooj · #7 Post by **Nooj** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 8:31 pm

Seriously, I've just been though all of the above, it's a piece of piss, just give it to the people with the right tools, shouldn't cost you more than £60, better then buggering up yourself over a number of weeks.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tap_and_die You;ll need an M5 and an M6 tap and tap holer if you going to do it yourself, should be about £15.

D-Rider · #8 Post by **D-Rider** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 8:39 pm

Everything must come off and all bearings must be removed.

Not easy to get the pivot bearings out - I cut one side out with a dremel which then allowed me to drift the other side out.
You might get them out with some fancy puller but cutting is probably what you'll end up doing.

For the dogbone bearings you may get away with removing the rollers and leaving the shells in there. As long as the rollers are OK you may well be able to repack and reuse them. I say this as the full compliment bearings are hard to source. Of course remove all seals before powder coating.

Same as others have said about removing the stuff that's stuck - a good soak in penetrating oil plus heat. That said you may still end up having to drill some of those out.

As for powder coating, get it bead blasted first - removing the lacquer by hand is not really practical - I tried and gave up. I also didn't find anything that would touch it chemically.

As for the dent, some have filled them but I had mine knocked out - they drilled a hole behind it, knocked it out perfectly and welded the hole up - brilliant job.

Choose a good powdercoater - someone who will take the time to sort it out properly and mask all the holes etc.

If you need some advice of local places for this work contact Will or myself and we'll try to aim you in the right direction.

furygan man · #9 Post by **furygan man** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 8:43 pm

D-Rider wrote:Everything must come off and all bearings must be removed.

Not easy to get the pivot bearings out - I cut one side out with a dremel which then allowed me to drift the other side out.
You might get them out with some fancy puller but cutting is probably what you'll end up doing.

For the dogbone bearings you may get away with removing the rollers and leaving the shells in there. As long as the rollers are OK you may well be able to repack and reuse them. I say this as the full compliment bearings are hard to source. Of course remove all seals before powder coating.

Same as others have said about removing the stuff that's stuck - a good soak in penetrating oil plus heat. That said you may still end up having to drill some of those out.

As for powder coating, get it bead blasted first - removing the lacquer by hand is not really practical - I tried and gave up. I also didn't find anything that would touch it chemically.

As for the dent, some have filled them but I had mine knocked out - they drilled a hole behind it, knocked it out perfectly and welded the hole up - brilliant job.

Choose a good powdercoater - someone who will take the time to sort it out properly and mask all the holes etc.

If you need some advice of local places for this work contact Will or myself and we'll try to aim you in the right direction.

Feeling very light headed!!!!!

Now i have all this info i'm going to ask Griff if he can help, he was going to fit it anyway, maybe he can do the above and knows a powder coater? I was going to use someone 'up North' but now i really haven't a clue what to do if griff says no

Nooj · #10 Post by **Nooj** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 9:02 pm

If Griff says no (which I doubt he will) one of us should be able to sort it easily enough.

anzacinexile · #11 Post by **anzacinexile** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 9:07 pm

Just to be different, I answered on "the other side"

http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/show ... ost2722287

furygan man · #12 Post by **furygan man** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 9:09 pm

I do really appreciate all your help and advice, i seem to think i can just dive in and do everything!!

...going to leave work now and find a darkened room...i may be some time?

Aladinsaneuk · #13 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 9:11 pm

No - don't fret

It's not that hard to do, or get done, a lot of this stuff

I would suggest that you take your time and work on the stuck bits first - meanwhile source a good painter for the 2pac

As for bearing removal - there's your choices .... Ask around to see who can remove the old ones - or play with Mr Dremel

Falco9 · #14 Post by **Falco9** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 9:19 pm

I know a decent powder coater in Leeds who can do it for you mate (just opposite Jordans bikes in Birstall) I can have a word with him for you and get you a decent price I'm sure

Let me know if I can help

F9

furygan man · #15 Post by **furygan man** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 9:23 pm

...that's good to know, i know Jordan's, been a few times. there was a firm in Bingley i was going to use, but it looks like i have some other stuff to attend to before (if) it gets that far!

(...continues rocking side to side...)