electronics reset, help!

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danthewhippet · #1 Post by **danthewhippet** » Mon Jun 25, 2012 4:57 pm

the magic and wizardry that is modern electronics is messing me around. the bike will cut out and reset the electronics to their default,ie kmph and limiter at 6k.almost like the battery is being disconnected and reconnected but in the blink of an eye. it has done this 3 times now, 1st when about to pull away from the kerb, 2nd when filtering at lights- reached the front as the lights changed and it cut out as i was about to pull away,praise be that it wasnt rush hour! and 3rd whilst starting,so it reset itself whilst i had me thumb on the button. its a 52 plate, 32k and a datatool s4 alarm/imob. any suggestions would be gratefully recieved as any bikeshop will be rubbing thier hands with glee if i put it in with that kind of fault! its my first aprilia after 30yrs on a variety of jap stuff and i got to say its a brilliant machine, pulls like atrain and rides beautifully. please note that i've never delivered a pizza in my life!!!!

control_67 · #2 Post by **control_67** » Mon Jun 25, 2012 5:33 pm

danthewhippet wrote:the magic and wizardry that is modern electronics is messing me around. the bike will cut out and reset the electronics to their default,ie kmph and limiter at 6k.almost like the battery is being disconnected and reconnected but in the blink of an eye. it has done this 3 times now, 1st when about to pull away from the kerb, 2nd when filtering at lights- reached the front as the lights changed and it cut out as i was about to pull away,praise be that it wasnt rush hour! and 3rd whilst starting,so it reset itself whilst i had me thumb on the button. its a 52 plate, 32k and a datatool s4 alarm/imob. any suggestions would be gratefully recieved as any bikeshop will be rubbing thier hands with glee if i put it in with that kind of fault! its my first aprilia after 30yrs on a variety of jap stuff and i got to say its a brilliant machine, pulls like atrain and rides beautifully. please note that i've never delivered a pizza in my life!!!!

That would be my first point of investigation.

Shetland Woody · #3 Post by **Shetland Woody** » Mon Jun 25, 2012 5:40 pm

Just a thought, are the battery terminals tight. Surprising how they can vibrate loose

Aladinsaneuk · #4 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Mon Jun 25, 2012 5:41 pm

Check the battery with a voltmeter across the battery terminals

Do you use and optimate ? If not get one

Finally and most likely I think in this instance, check for chafed electrics around the headstock and right bar

#5 Post by **Kwackerz** » Mon Jun 25, 2012 5:53 pm

Ive heard of broken battery internals doing this before as well. Big vibey V Twins can break the semi-delicate internals of batteries so that there is an intermittent circuit. I'd say thats close to a last resort check before putting the bike into the stealer..sorry, dealer, to be fleeced.. sorry, fixed..

Quid on it being the alarm

Aladinsaneuk · #6 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Mon Jun 25, 2012 6:42 pm

taken tim

pretty sure it will not be the alarm

poor battery would be an option or broken wire is my bet

fatboy · #7 Post by **fatboy** » Mon Jun 25, 2012 7:17 pm

You have a few possiible culprits to look at
My mate had a Datatool alarm/immob shop fitted on a brand new Gixer,had it dissconnected few months later as it was playing up
Battery,if the internals are shagged as Kwack suggested then any damaged cell will reverse its polarity and drain the good cells, the alternator may only provide enough charge @ higher rpm
If the battery is healthy you should get a reading of over 12.6 v or more without motor running, jumping to 14.25 to 14.75 running
Shit connections, broken wiring where it bends ect
Good luck

flatlander · #8 Post by **flatlander** » Mon Jun 25, 2012 8:39 pm

The only other time I heard of it was on the newer mille.
The third one on startup I think everyone has done at least once so may be a red herring in your search.
Does it make any difference of you move the limiter range up to say 9 ? Just curious as it appears to on the Mille IIRC

Generally though I would defer to the above gents and check for obvious breaks or contact fails and rip the alarm out of the way get an optimate and run it at over 4 k revs to charge the circuit but then I am a mechanical numpty and stick to the basics :)

D-Rider · #9 Post by **D-Rider** » Mon Jun 25, 2012 10:08 pm

If the bike is still running fine then the problem is just the power feed to the clocks.
Check that the connector is pushed in properly. If it is, start checking the wiring harness for damaged wires.

Aladinsaneuk · #10 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Mon Jun 25, 2012 10:21 pm

as he said the bike cut out I assumed the bike was not running fine.....

HisNibbs · #11 Post by **HisNibbs** » Mon Jun 25, 2012 10:32 pm

Not good at smallprint so if you've said I appologise, but how old is the battery?

More than 3 years then a replacement is the first ppint of call.

danthewhippet · #12 Post by **danthewhippet** » Mon Jun 25, 2012 11:24 pm

thanks for all the input, the battery is new this year and i get12.6 at rest and between 13.7 and 14.5 depending on revs/load. the two times it cut out it restarted immediately and runs fine otherwise, i just reset to mph and the limiter to 10k and of we go. the once on starting i didnt notice anything different until i saw the trip meter at 0 and kmph on the clock, had to kill the motor to set the limit and restarted fine. i've checked wires round the battery and had the rear plastics of to check wires/connections at the rear,even renewed the two 30 amp fuses for good measure but it was last night it reset whilst my thumb was on the button, been out this evening and it hasnt missed a beat!!! go figure?

fatboy · #13 Post by **fatboy** » Tue Jun 26, 2012 5:55 pm

Guess its a wiring gremlin ! Intermitent faults are a bastard to find cos they're erm intermitent !
look for the obvious crap connection/ worn insulation and befriend an auto electrickeran magiceran

Aladinsaneuk · #14 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Tue Jun 26, 2012 6:25 pm

takes the hobbits money and puts it safely on a high shelf

get a torch and look really carefully around the headstock - undo the ties etc and look at all of the cable cover.... then do the same around the right hand switch gear - pay special interest to the engine kill switch - griff has commented in the past that those can give these exact symptoms.... so strip it and clean it may well be a very good idea

get an optimate - trust me on this

danthewhippet · #15 Post by **danthewhippet** » Tue Jun 26, 2012 9:04 pm

again, many thanks. looks like i'll be doing a bit more checking /cleaning etc, round the headstock will be next, had to fit a new front brakelight switch at the start of the year but was lazy and didnt take any plastics off, meant rooting about under the clocks so may have disturbed something, fitted new battery same day. the "D" button to set the clock/read voltage hasn't worked this year but was ok b4 winter, i'm beginning to feel large donkey ears growing out the top o ma head!!! i'm a heating engineer by trade so know only too well how bastardly "intermittent" can be. I'll post any progress on this string unless, of course, it's my own damn fault. had often considered an optimate but hadn't taken the plunge cos the charger i have works and as the bike lives outside hooking it up overnight could be awkward but not impossible, i guess there's more to them than just being a charger?

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electronics reset, help!

electronics reset, help!

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