Looking to buy a new helmet, clothing or accessories? Ask for opinions and advice here.
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FlyingKiwi
- SuperSport Racer

- Posts: 766
- Joined: Sun Jan 14, 2007 6:14 pm
- Location: Gogledd Cymru
#1
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by FlyingKiwi » Mon Jan 02, 2012 7:19 am
Hi all,
Busy scanning the net while my Jetlag subsides after 24 hrs in the air

and found this.
Steering Bearing press £85
Quick search showed next cheapest about £160.
Might be usful for those of you who dabble with such things.
FK

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D-Rider
- Admin

- Posts: 15560
- Joined: Wed Jan 03, 2007 1:09 pm
- Location: Coventry
#2
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by D-Rider » Mon Jan 02, 2012 9:39 am
That looks good and would probably make the job much easier .... however I doubt that I'll change the bearings frequently enough to justify the cost.
Good find though.
“Scientists investigate that which already is. Engineers create that which has never been.”
-- Albert Einstein
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FlyingKiwi
- SuperSport Racer

- Posts: 766
- Joined: Sun Jan 14, 2007 6:14 pm
- Location: Gogledd Cymru
#3
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by FlyingKiwi » Mon Jan 02, 2012 9:56 am
D-Rider wrote:That looks good and would probably make the job much easier .... however I doubt that I'll change the bearings frequently enough to justify the cost.
Good find though.
My thoughts too but I know there are peoples on here that like to tinker with old bikes with rusty bearings and such.
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mangocrazy
- Admin

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- Location: Sheffield, UK
#4
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by mangocrazy » Mon Jan 02, 2012 11:33 am
Shame I didn't see that a few weeks ago. I'm intending to use the same method to fit the wheel bearings to my Oz wheels, and have already used that method to fit taper roller head bearings to the VFR a year or so ago.
The only difference is that I used a length of M16 studding, a couple of M16 nuts and bolts, and set of steel blanks of the correct size machined up for me by Derek Chittenden. He's in the process of machining some more up for me as we speak to suit the Oz wheel bearings.
It's a far better way of seating bearings than the usual hammer and approximate sized socket approach. When I was doing the head bearings on the VFR it was a case of screw down the nuts at either end and then give a gentle tap, then repeat until the bearing seats were home. As soon as the bearings were fully seated the noise when you were tapping the blanks changed from hollow sounding to 'solid'.
I've not needed to re-tighten the bearing races since, and that's unusual. Normally you have to ride the bike for a bit to properly seat the bearings, then go through the whole palaver again to adjust them after a few miles. This way does it right first time.
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fatboy
- World Champion
- Posts: 3774
- Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2011 7:48 pm
- Location: BATH
#5
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by fatboy » Sun Jan 15, 2012 8:26 pm
That looks like an amazing bit of kit, gonna have to look at that again on payday and buy it if its on offer, so easy to wreck bearings drifting em in just a bit out of square
Cleverly disguised as an adult !
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D-Rider
- Admin

- Posts: 15560
- Joined: Wed Jan 03, 2007 1:09 pm
- Location: Coventry
#6
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by D-Rider » Sun Jan 15, 2012 10:06 pm
Even cheaper now
(but still too much for my infrequent use):

“Scientists investigate that which already is. Engineers create that which has never been.”
-- Albert Einstein
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paddyz1
- SuperBike Racer

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- Joined: Wed Jan 17, 2007 10:14 pm
- Location: Northwich, Cheshire
#7
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by paddyz1 » Mon Jan 16, 2012 12:04 am
A good twat with a hammer and correct size socket has always worked for me

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D-Rider
- Admin

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- Location: Coventry
#8
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by D-Rider » Mon Jan 16, 2012 12:21 am
Some of us have a hammer
Some of us know a twat
but how many of us know a good twat with a hammer?
..... just asking .....
“Scientists investigate that which already is. Engineers create that which has never been.”
-- Albert Einstein