Bolts to drill out, new front mudguard needed...

[mmchutchon]

Tried removing front mudguard the other day, one bolt each side sheared off. Bought cobalt drill bits, 30 mins with a hand drill and I'm halfway through one bolt but drifting outwards. Needed to make a 15 mile journey today, so used cable ties as a temporary fix. Got 1 mile from home before the mudguard flew off - must have been slightly out of position and caught on the front wheel.

Question:
Can I fit an RSV mudguard? I seem to remember seeing a long list of common parts on another site. My Falco is a red one, but a black mud guard would look fine.

I was going to remove the front wheel to drill the bolts from both sides, but two of the pinch bolts are seized. Any advice? Front tyre is at least 4 years old so I'm thinking I'll take it in for a tyre change at a garage and let them sort it.

Once that is done, I'll have another crack at drilling the bolts out. Anyone got any experience? It might come down to removing the fork legs completely and taking them to a machine shop.

Anyone know why Aprilia used so many stainless bolts in aluminium fittings? I think the LH front brake caliper bolts are seized too - so much for keeping a bike garaged to keep it sweet. Bike is 12 years old, but only done 23,000 miles. I dunno.

Mark

[Falconihlist]

you have a pm

[MartDude]

Anyone know why Aprilia used so many stainless bolts in aluminium fittings?

Excuse my ignorance, but is this likely to be a problem? A number of us replace standard bolts with stainless ones

[D-Rider]

Mille Mudguards fit and RSVR Mudguards fit too.

Copper grease and loctite are your friends for preventing the bolts from seizing ..... though it doesn't help if they've already got stuck.

[MartDude]

Futura mudguards also fit - sold one to someone here - Flying Kiwi? - & apparently it fitted ok

[mangocrazy]

If you need to get serious with the seized bolts, it's worth giving them a soak with Plus-Gas or Wurth's Rost-Off Ice. The Wurth product is supposed to freeze the area and cause micro-cracking in the corrosion, which allows the penetrating fluid to get in and do its stuff.

If all else fails, apply heat to the bolts with a propane solder torch or oxy-acetylene 'gas axe' if you're posh. The expansion/contraction can often shake a seized bolt loose, as can an impact driver/air gun.

To be honest, that's the order I'd try them:

1. Penetrating fluid (don't bother with WD40, it's pretty rubbish for this).
2. Heat.
3. Impact driver/windy gun.

[Nooj]

Excuse my ignorance, but is this likely to be a problem? A number of us replace standard bolts with stainless ones

Basically... stainless steel and ally together will cause a 'dissimilar metal' galvanic cell (same principal as a battery) using salty/dirty water as a very effective electrolite, which is what's caused them to corrode and seize. This is one of the main things the anti-corrosion treatments I do are designed to stop, by displacing the electrolyte with something non conductive that's difficult to wash off, and that actually drives out any water in cracks and crevices on your bikes. That's what ACF50 is specifically designed to do.

I'm guessing the bolts were put back in with no coppaslip (or similar) when they were last removed? Or are just old and haven't been looked after (highly likely if your front tyre is four years old!)?

On a well maintained bike this shouldn't cause a problem, but it's not something a lot of owners are aware or (or even care about) and I've known plenty of bike shops that don't do it as part of a service.