Mille swinger swop help needed

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Olig7475 · #1 Post by **Olig7475** » Fri Apr 01, 2011 5:03 pm

Right I've got some way in to the above swop-out and got a couple of questions for the wise one's of the forum;

What's the sequence/ procedure for removing the swing arm pin, i.e. what side do I undo first castle nut or the nut on the other side?

what tool do you use with the castle nut socket thingy? the nuts on bloody tight and I couldn't shift it using a pair of adjustable's as the socket doesn't seat that well on the nut and subsequently is fiddly to get a good purchase on....help much appreciated.

Thanks all
Oli

joecrx · #2 Post by **joecrx** » Fri Apr 01, 2011 5:08 pm

ther was a socket on ebay for 12 quid, i was thinking of getting it , dont know if its still on there though
think this will fit , but experts will be along soon to confirm
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/APRILIA-RSV-MILLE ... 45f967bbaf

Olig7475 · #3 Post by **Olig7475** » Fri Apr 01, 2011 5:56 pm

That looks better than the Park Tool freewheel remover thingy I bought for the job!!!!!!!!

Aladinsaneuk · #4 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Fri Apr 01, 2011 6:15 pm

castle nut first

and yes use the proper tool.... and for 12 quid i would say thats worth it - i paid about 8 quid for mine a few years back.... and waited for a while as it came from the usa

D-Rider · #5 Post by **D-Rider** » Fri Apr 01, 2011 8:11 pm

It's all in the technical section .....

https://www.ridersite.com/viewtopic.php?t=5962

What else do you want to know? .....

Olig7475 · #6 Post by **Olig7475** » Sat Apr 02, 2011 11:04 am

yes I was using the technical section guide (very good it is too) but it wasn't clear what order to disassemble the swing arm pin.

Stupid question.....but does the castle nut have a regular thread i.e. anti-clock to undo? I'm really struggling to shift it. I'm going to get a 24mm socket that will fit the castle nut tool thingy, that should give me better purchase and I'll be able to use my 1/inch breaker bar with that.

I also fought for over an hour with the exhaust, I couldn't get to the header bolts to slacken them off, so I got very physical with it and managed eventually to muscle it off......but I fear the worst when it's time to re-assemble! Any tips on getting to the header bolts? I had a look at the front cylinder bolts, easier to get at but they looked very badly corroded and would need a miracle (or some very special equipment or knowledge, neither of which I have) to shift them!

So all in all with the above issues and the fact that the bike fell off the jacks when I removed the rear paddock stand

all isn't going well! I'm starting to get that feeling of "why the hell did I start this" and "what if I can't finish what I've started"

I'll report back with what ever little progress I've manage to make.

D-Rider · #7 Post by **D-Rider** » Sat Apr 02, 2011 1:12 pm

I don't remember encountering any left hand threads.

the rear header bolts are a challenge - you need the right combination of extension pieces and universal joints if I remember correcttly

#8 Post by **Kwackerz** » Sat Apr 02, 2011 1:33 pm

Perseverance.. A bit more perseverance.. and shedloads of Ale.

Anything is then achievable.

moggyvan · #9 Post by **moggyvan** » Sat Apr 02, 2011 1:41 pm

Buy a cheap 1/2" drive socket of the correct diameter (I used a 30mm Draper) and grind your own castellations to match the nut. I jacked the rear of the bike up with a padock stand which was sat on 4" thick planks, then used axle stands either side of my crash bungs to help support/steady the bike. Remove the rear wheel but leave the paddock stand in position so you can undo the lower rocker linkage- you can wiggle the stand up and down to help find the loose position of the remaining nuts and bolts and finally lower the swingarm down once all is disconnected.
Hope this helps

Samray · #10 Post by **Samray** » Sat Apr 02, 2011 1:47 pm

Kwackerz wrote:Perseverance.. A bit more perseverance.. and shedloads of Ale.

Anything is then achievable.

and the more the hassle the bigger the sense of achievement at the end.

save some beer for the celebration!

Aladinsaneuk · #11 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Sat Apr 02, 2011 2:00 pm

You will need a UJ and a torch ... Taking the rear wheel out helps a lot...

Olig7475 · #12 Post by **Olig7475** » Sun Apr 10, 2011 7:52 pm

Well I made some great progress with the swinger swop this weekend, the end is in sight, thought i would put up some pics of the said swinger in place.

Overall I'm very pleased with the result, it's been bloody hard work with a steep learning curve, but one look at her with that new swinger on and it all seems well worth it

quick question, does this different swinger need a longer chain or will I be ok with the same as the 106 link that came off it?

cheers

#13 Post by **Kwackerz** » Sun Apr 10, 2011 7:55 pm

Looking really really good!! Well done!

Oh and Im sure you can use the existing chain but you need to split it to get it thru the new swingarm.
That all might change if you're using different sized sprockets, but one of the experts will be along shortly..

Samray · #14 Post by **Samray** » Sun Apr 10, 2011 8:16 pm

Shyneee.

Aladinsaneuk · #15 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Sun Apr 10, 2011 8:42 pm

Same length will fit - though you will have to split the chain anyway.....

Iirc the mille swinger central point for the rear axle is 1/2 inch longer than the falco -but the adjusters should be enough I think

Nice work btw :)

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