Rear Tyre - Another Question
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Rear Tyre - Another Question
Happy New Year to you all and thanks for the recommendation about which tyres to fit next. Useful for the next tyre change, when I'll replace both and can switch manufacturer. I hadn't looked at anything other than Bridgestones before.
I did get recommendations from IAM for Bedford Wheels as a good place to use, run by bikers although they do cars as well. They are kitted up for ride-in-ride-out tyre changing, and when I called them they seem knowledgeable and helpful.
The question is, now I've got the rear spindle out, what is the recommended grease to use on the spindle before I put it back? I have some Castrol LM high melting point, but wonder if that is suitably robust for the job.
I did get recommendations from IAM for Bedford Wheels as a good place to use, run by bikers although they do cars as well. They are kitted up for ride-in-ride-out tyre changing, and when I called them they seem knowledgeable and helpful.
The question is, now I've got the rear spindle out, what is the recommended grease to use on the spindle before I put it back? I have some Castrol LM high melting point, but wonder if that is suitably robust for the job.
That's what I use - I've got a big tub of it and I've got to use it up somehow
It's not doing much on the spindle other than protecting the surface - the wheel bearings do the business for the wheel rotation (and if I were re-packing bearings I'd use my trusty tub of LM too)
It's not doing much on the spindle other than protecting the surface - the wheel bearings do the business for the wheel rotation (and if I were re-packing bearings I'd use my trusty tub of LM too)
“Scientists investigate that which already is. Engineers create that which has never been.”
-- Albert Einstein
-- Albert Einstein
Castrol LM is the dogs
Talking of tubs of lube... I bought some red grease for the work on my brakes... I've used about 1g... still have 499g... me thinks it'll last a long time.
The LM on the other hand has been well used, probably over half gone... all on car/bike.
Talking of tubs of lube... I bought some red grease for the work on my brakes... I've used about 1g... still have 499g... me thinks it'll last a long time.
The LM on the other hand has been well used, probably over half gone... all on car/bike.
"There is a grey blur, and a green blur. I try to stay on the grey one..." - Joey Dunlop. Isle of Man TT Champion.
I took the rear wheel out today (first time I've tackled that job myself). It was very straight forward to get out but I'd recommend unbolting the brake caliper to make reassembly easier - put the caliper back on last. Otherwise a cinch. So, shiny new tyre to scrub in and we're back in business - hooray!
Well, maybe - I think the battery is getting a bit weak. I'll try tightening the terminals a bit to see if that gets me a few more weeks of use out of it. The RiDE Falco article talked about a 14v battery that many owners use. Anyone know what that is?
I know there have been many threads on batteries, but I don't remember a 14v being mentioned (was there one from a Merc / BMW / something German that was recommended a couple of years ago on this forum).
Well, maybe - I think the battery is getting a bit weak. I'll try tightening the terminals a bit to see if that gets me a few more weeks of use out of it. The RiDE Falco article talked about a 14v battery that many owners use. Anyone know what that is?
I know there have been many threads on batteries, but I don't remember a 14v being mentioned (was there one from a Merc / BMW / something German that was recommended a couple of years ago on this forum).
- anzacinexile
- SuperSport Racer
- Posts: 441
- Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 11:00 pm
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You're mistaken - its wasn't a 14v battery but a 14AHr instead of a 12AHr.FalcoJock wrote:I know there have been many threads on batteries, but I don't remember a 14v being mentioned (was there one from a Merc / BMW / something German that was recommended a couple of years ago on this forum).
AHr is a measure of a battery's capacity not the ability to provide power (14 amps for 1 hour). The measure of a battery's power delivery capacity is its CCA (cold crank amps) but even that's a bit misleading. It doesn't mean it provides 200 cca's but it has the POTENTIAL to provide 200amps if called upon (if the starter only wants 50amps to crank, that's what will be provided).
What it does give an indication to however is the ability to hold its voltage under stress so you want a battery with as high a CCA as you can find and that invariably means an AGM type. Beware however that a AGM battery wants a slightly higher charge voltage to get the best out of it so the wiring mod helps enormously.
Yes that was one of the things I had issue with in the Ride article.
I've often seen posts where people talk about upgrading to a 14Ah battery but I don't recall ever having seen a 14Ah battery correctly identified - usually the ones that people point to have a number 14 in the battery code but when you look at the spec turn out to be an 11 or 12 Ah battery.
I'm not saying there are no 14Ah batteries out there that will fit - I've just not found them.
As Anzac says, CCA is the important thing for our bikes - I've a Yuassa YTZ14 that has a capacity of just over 11Ah and a CCA of 230A.
I've often seen posts where people talk about upgrading to a 14Ah battery but I don't recall ever having seen a 14Ah battery correctly identified - usually the ones that people point to have a number 14 in the battery code but when you look at the spec turn out to be an 11 or 12 Ah battery.
I'm not saying there are no 14Ah batteries out there that will fit - I've just not found them.
As Anzac says, CCA is the important thing for our bikes - I've a Yuassa YTZ14 that has a capacity of just over 11Ah and a CCA of 230A.
“Scientists investigate that which already is. Engineers create that which has never been.”
-- Albert Einstein
-- Albert Einstein