Help with LED Indi's

Message

Olig7475 · #1 Post by **Olig7475** » Tue Mar 02, 2010 9:18 pm

I have a mate with an R1, he's fitted LED's but is having some problems, can anyone shed any light?

I fitted some LED indicators to the rear and they worked fine until I put some on the front. Now, when say the left indicator is on, two LED’s in the right indicator flash with it and two LED’s on the left stay on permanently, and vice versa. I fitted an LED indicator relay so the flash rate and wattages are as they should be. Clearly some voltage/current leaking through somewhere. Any ideas please?

I refitted the 12ohm resistors and that sorted the problem - all flashing as they should - but now, when I've got the headlights on I only get half of the LED's on the front one working!

Falcopops · #2 Post by **Falcopops** » Wed Mar 03, 2010 2:24 am

Can't diagnose your particular problem, but to go the all led route you need to do the diode dash fix.

Have a search on AF1 it's been done to death.

Here's the words (I have it saved) signed by K-bom, to help your search

As many of you may have found out, we cannot simply remove the stock bulbs and replace them with LED indicators. The usual fix is to install load resistors in parallel with the LED’s. The problem stems from the fact that Aprilia elected to use a single turn indicator lamp. This bulb will tie the left and right circuits together and cause both indicators to flash. The following instructions will show an easy way to fix this problem. Minor electrical skills are a plus. I chose to solder all of my connections and used heat shrink tubing to protect any exposed wiring.

The following parts are required:
• 2 each IN4005 Diodes. Radio Shack p/n 276-1104
• 1 each Electronic LED Flasher Unit. I used p/n CF12ANL-01, purchased from Superbrightleds.com

Gain access to the rear connector of the instrument panel. You will need to remove the windshield and dash cover at a minimum. I removed the headlight and upper cowling assembly to make things easier. It is a good idea to disconnect the battery before removing the 20-pin connector. Loosen the black zip ties and pull back the connector hood. Remove the black sheathing from the connector wire harness with a pair of scissors or equiv.

Locate the light blue (pin 16) and red (pin 17) wires. These wires will be cut, and the two diodes will be installed. Cut these wires approx. two inches back from the connector. Install the diodes on the ends that go into the harness, with the stripe end pointing away from the wire.

Wrap the opposite end of the diodes together and solder to the red wire that is sticking out of the connector (pin 17).

The light blue wire that is sticking out of the connector (pin 16) will be connected to the blue/green wire (pin 15). This will be the ground return for the indicator lamp.

Temporarily hook up the connector and reconnect the battery. It’s a good idea to test everything out before final assembly. If all is good, shrink down your heat shrink tubing.

I wrapped the wire harness back up using electrical tape. Re-secure the harness using the factory zip ties. I also used an extra one just to tidy things up. Note that I have also installed a HID headlight kit, so it may look different than yours.

The flasher unit is located in the left rear cowl. It is the furthest back in the row and the easiest to get at.

For those of you that can read a wiring diagram, I have attached the modified circuit.

Hopefully this will help some of you. It’s too late for Ghostrider71. Sorry I didn’t get to this sooner Nate

K-Bom

FlyingKiwi · #3 Post by **FlyingKiwi** » Wed Mar 03, 2010 9:53 am

Falcopops wrote:but to go the all led route you need to do the diode dash fix.

Cough Cough, I disagree

I have an all LED set up. The indicators, from Halfords, have inline resistors. I also replaced the original flasher unit with a LED flasher unit from eBay.
I certainly didn't open up the instument panel.
Everything works fine.
FK

Aladinsaneuk · #4 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Wed Mar 03, 2010 10:04 am

agree with that - i have all led indicators and i have also not done the dash diode

I have not replaced the flasher unit - but i do have a resistor on each side that is wired in....

no problems for me :)

D-Rider · #5 Post by **D-Rider** » Wed Mar 03, 2010 11:28 am

Having looked at the circuit, the description that Dale has posted up is entirely correct for an all LED set-up that doesn't fool everything into thinking you've still got bulbs by sticking some resistors in parallel with the LED indicators.

If you have the load resistors in parallel, then it shouldn't need this mod.

I'll draw up some diagrams later and explain.

Oli - the problem when you've got the headlights on will be down to a poor ground return - voltage drop across a resistive path.
Cleaning up the connectors might do the trick - if not, add a separate ground wire back to a good earthing point or the battery.

Falcopops · #6 Post by **Falcopops** » Wed Mar 03, 2010 12:48 pm

to Aladinsane and FlyingKiwi

There's a big difference between a bodger and a purist. If you're gonna do it, do it right.

Aladinsaneuk · #7 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Wed Mar 03, 2010 12:54 pm

I wanted the look not the power reserve

:)

FlyingKiwi · #8 Post by **FlyingKiwi** » Wed Mar 03, 2010 1:07 pm

Falcopops wrote:I used two little washers to space the pin out and although it just caught the latch I wouldn’t trust it to be completely secure. I put a third washer in (I reckon 2.5 washers would be ideal), but the little bolt is too short to catch a thread, fortunately I found a longer bolt that worked so put it all back together

Careful who you call a bodger

Olig7475 · #9 Post by **Olig7475** » Wed Mar 03, 2010 5:55 pm

D-Rider wrote:Having looked at the circuit, the description that Dale has posted up is entirely correct for an all LED set-up that doesn't fool everything into thinking you've still got bulbs by sticking some resistors in parallel with the LED indicators.

If you have the load resistors in parallel, then it shouldn't need this mod.

I'll draw up some diagrams later and explain.

Oli - the problem when you've got the headlights on will be down to a poor ground return - voltage drop across a resistive path.
Cleaning up the connectors might do the trick - if not, add a separate ground wire back to a good earthing point or the battery.

Cheers Andy, I'll pass that on...bloody unreliable Jap IL4 rubbish, keep telling him to get on a real bike with just two cylinders!

Falcopops · #10 Post by **Falcopops** » Wed Mar 03, 2010 9:26 pm

FlyingKiwi wrote:
Falcopops wrote:I used two little washers to space the pin out and although it just caught the latch I wouldn’t trust it to be completely secure. I put a third washer in (I reckon 2.5 washers would be ideal), but the little bolt is too short to catch a thread, fortunately I found a longer bolt that worked so put it all back together
Careful who you call a bodger

Phew! I'm able to take my tounge out of my cheek now, it was starting to ache a bit.