Puncturesafe motorcycle tyre sealant for sale.

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Nooj
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Puncturesafe motorcycle tyre sealant for sale.

#1 Post by Nooj » Mon Feb 22, 2010 2:06 pm

Puncturesafe used to be the UK distributor for Utraseal. They're doing their own thing now and I am a distributor for them.

Two choices for installing the stuff: You can come to me for a ride in-ride out service and I'll put the stuff in with my calibrated pump, or I can send out bottles of sealant to you.

Ride in/Ride out RRP£20 per bike.

Cars/Vans RRP £1 per unit of tyre goo used. Forum discount price £10 off your total.

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Bike/Scooter bottles RRP £25. Forum discount price £20 each.

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Car/Van kits: RRP £45. Forum discount price £37.50 each.

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Trailer/Caravan/Off Road kits (NOT suitable for cars/vans/bikes!): RRP £27. Forum discount price £25.50 each.

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Three most common questions answered:
Yes, you CAN balance a wheel with it in. It takes a little more work, but it CAN be done.
No, it WON'T affect the handling of your bike. Both me and the Missus have ridden thousands of miles, toured Europe, gone drag racing and done track days with it in. No Problems. Ever.
Yes, you WILL notice if you get a serious puncture, it will not seal any slit nor a hole bigger than about 6mm, instead you will get a slow deflation enabling you to stay in control of your bike while you find somewhere safe to stop.

Cash :smt003 :smt003 :smt003
Cheque :smt003 :smt003
PayPal :smt003

PM me for Payment details.
Last edited by Nooj on Mon May 24, 2010 7:28 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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#2 Post by Nooj » Wed Feb 24, 2010 10:59 am

Ignore this. Nothing to see here.

Move along, move along.
Last edited by Nooj on Mon May 24, 2010 7:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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#3 Post by D-Rider » Wed Feb 24, 2010 11:52 am

Sounds interesting - might be up for some (especially if I hit Europe this summer) .... but first, a few questions ....
  • Having significantly reduced gyroscopic mass by fitting OZ wheels, how much will I be adding back (per wheel) by having a squirt of Nooj's special juice contained within the rubber?

    More of a theoretical one this ... but in the less likely event of getting a puncture in an area of the tyre you are not allowed to repair, I assume the special juice will seal it. Although Mr Plod is unlikely to spot this, were I to have an accident, will my insurance company take a dim view?

    Last time I had a puncture repaired, the tyre fitter at first thought I had Pirelli Corsas which, he tells me, cannot be repaired. Asking around it seems that a number of the new tyre designs fall into this category - if I remember correctly the construction is too thin to be safely repaired (Fortunately mine are Diablo Rossos which were OK to be repaired).
    What is the situation when it comes to sealing these thin, modern tyres with Puncturesafe?
Cheers - and I hope your new businesses become a success for you.
“Scientists investigate that which already is. Engineers create that which has never been.”
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My fingers ache now!

#4 Post by Nooj » Wed Feb 24, 2010 3:30 pm

D-Rider wrote:
  • Having significantly reduced gyroscopic mass by fitting OZ wheels, how much will I be adding back (per wheel) by having a squirt of Nooj's special juice contained within the rubber?

    More of a theoretical one this ... but in the less likely event of getting a puncture in an area of the tyre you are not allowed to repair, I assume the special juice will seal it. Although Mr Plod is unlikely to spot this, were I to have an accident, will my insurance company take a dim view?

    Last time I had a puncture repaired, the tyre fitter at first thought I had Pirelli Corsas which, he tells me, cannot be repaired. Asking around it seems that a number of the new tyre designs fall into this category - if I remember correctly the construction is too thin to be safely repaired (Fortunately mine are Diablo Rossos which were OK to be repaired).
    What is the situation when it comes to sealing these thin, modern tyres with Puncturesafe?
Cheers - and I hope your new businesses become a success for you.
Weight first: Maybe 500g rear, 300g front as an over estimate. What weight of rubber is lost between a brand new tyre and a worn out one? Probably about the same, so would you only fit worn tyres to keep the unsprung mass down? Course not, don't be daft. :smt003

Boring theory: The way a tyre is traditionally repaired is that the area with the puncture in it is actually cut out/ground away and replaced with a bung, that's why there's a maximum diameter hole that can be repaired and minimum thickness of rubber needed to glue the bung into. If you're not allowed to repair some tyres in this way it makes even more sense to use tyre jollop in them as a precaution.

What it will and will not seal is down to a few variables, the thickness and flexibility of the tyre's rubber and the size, shape and internal texture of the puncture being the main ones.

Puncturesafe relies on 'Rubber Recovery' to work. As long as the hole is small enough and the rubber is thick and flexible enough to recover and close up again, the jollop will get pushed by the internal air pressure into any tiny gaps and cracks that remain and set so the hole will be sealed stopping air getting out and road crud getting in.

As for a puncture in an area you're not allowed to repair, same again, depends on the puncture. A needle hole or small nail hole isn't a problem if there's enough rubber in that area to squash the hole closed again. If there isn't then you will loose air, but you will loose it much slower than if you had no sealant in your tyre, which could mean the difference between having a blow-out or getting home slowly, but safely. Puncturesafe WILL NOT hide a potentially dangerous puncture, it will give you a controlled deflation enabling you to stay in control of your vehicle as it happens.

As for what your insurance company would say? No idea. They don't follow the same logic that dictates how the rest of the world works, so you'll have to speak to them.

Other Benefits: As well as plugging small holes, Puncturesafe also distributes heat more evenly throughout your tyre, meaning on a cold day's ride you have less chance of leaning your bike over onto an unexpectedly cold area of tyre and ending up on your arse in the road. It also means that in hot weather, the crown of your tyres are less likely to over heat and wear excessively.

Also: Modern cast aluminium wheels are porous by nature, (magnesium wheels especially so, this is one reason why magnesium race wheels are illegal on the road). Paint or powdercoat will go some way to sealing them, but not completely. Not only does Puncturesafe seal tyres, it also seals any remaining porosity in cast wheels.
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Re: My fingers ache now!

#5 Post by D-Rider » Wed Feb 24, 2010 3:47 pm

Nooj wrote:
Weight first: Maybe 500g rear, 300g front as an over estimate. What weight of rubber is lost between a brand new tyre and a worn out one? Probably about the same, so would you only fit worn tyres to keep the unsprung mass down? Course not, don't be daft. :smt003
Point taken ... but this is on top of the tyre you chuck away. The mass of gllop then is about 40% of the saving in going from the standard Brembos to the Oz wheels - but concentrated where it will have the greatest gyroscopic effect.
Think that's telling me that although it could be worth getting my brembo wheels with touring tyres done for long trips, I might leave my OZ wheels alone so they are still nice and flickable ... at least until having tried out the standard wheels with it in.

Nooj wrote:
Boring theory: The way a tyre is traditionally repaired is that the area with the puncture in it is actually cut out/ground away and replaced with a bung, that's why there's a maximum diameter hole that can be repaired and minimum thickness of rubber needed to glue the bung into. If you're not allowed to repair some tyres in this way it makes even more sense to use tyre jollop in them as a precaution.

What it will and will not seal is down to a few variables, the thickness and flexibility of the tyre's rubber and the size, shape and internal texture of the puncture being the main ones.

Puncturesafe relies on 'Rubber Recovery' to work. As long as the hole is small enough and the rubber is thick and flexible enough to recover and close up again, the jollop will get pushed by the internal air pressure into any tiny gaps and cracks that remain and set so the hole will be sealed stopping air getting out and road crud getting in.

As for a puncture in an area you're not allowed to repair, same again, depends on the puncture. A needle hole or small nail hole isn't a problem if there's enough rubber in that area to squash the hole closed again. If there isn't then you will loose air, but you will loose it much slower than if you had no sealant in your tyre, which could mean the difference between having a blow-out or getting home slowly, but safely. Puncturesafe WILL NOT hide a potentially dangerous puncture, it will give you a controlled deflation enabling you to stay in control of your vehicle as it happens.

As for what your insurance company would say? No idea. They don't follow the same logic that dictates how the rest of the world works, so you'll have to speak to them.

Other Benefits: As well as plugging small holes, Puncturesafe also distributes heat more evenly throughout your tyre, meaning on a cold day's ride you have less chance of leaning your bike over onto an unexpectedly cold area of tyre and ending up on your arse in the road. It also means that in hot weather, the crown of your tyres are less likely to over heat and wear excessively.

Also: Modern cast aluminium wheels are porous by nature, (magnesium wheels especially so, this is one reason why magnesium race wheels are illegal on the road). Paint or powdercoat will go some way to sealing them, but not completely. Not only does Puncturesafe seal tyres, it also seals any remaining porosity in cast wheels.
This all sounds good

Many thanks for the answers
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#6 Post by Nooj » Wed Feb 24, 2010 8:02 pm

The point I was trying to make is, can you tell the difference between an old tyre and a new tyre purely by the speed of your steering? I'll bet not, in which case you won't notice the difference this stuff makes either.

Do your weight comparisons account for the wheel, the tyre and the disks combined or just the bare wheels? Be interesting to find out what the difference in centrifugal force actually is. Any Physics professors on here?
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#7 Post by D-Rider » Wed Feb 24, 2010 8:53 pm

Nooj wrote:The point I was trying to make is, can you tell the difference between an old tyre and a new tyre purely by the speed of your steering? I'll bet not, in which case you won't notice the difference this stuff makes either.

Do your weight comparisons account for the wheel, the tyre and the disks combined or just the bare wheels? Be interesting to find out what the difference in centrifugal force actually is. Any Physics professors on here?
No I don't think you notice the benefit of a lighter tyre as it wears as:
a) It happens gradually so you don't really notice it (though there is a "step change" when you fit a new tyre)
b) Wear also distorts the profile and benefits tend to be offset by the profile becoming less optimal.

The differences I quoted were between the weight of the OZ rims that I measured myself and the weight of the brembo rims that someone else weighed and posted up. They were the weight of the rims themselves but as the tyres and disks are a constant (for comparison) the difference in mass is the same whether or not you include these items.

Certainly, even an average rider like myself can easily notice the difference in the speed of steering between a bike with (forged) OZ wheels and the standard Brembos - so I'm guessing that 40% of that difference would be noticeable too.
That doesn't mean that I think this stuff is something to avoid - it sounds like a fantastic "insurance policy" and should be judged on its benefits. I've 2 sets of wheels - I'd be inclined to put this in the tyres on my Brembos and leave my OZs for max-fun. Others may stick it in their OZs - there's no right or wrong - just personal preference.

Knowing my luck though I'd put it in the brembo wheels and the next week be somewhere miles from home and get a puncture in the other set .... major FAIL / frustration


BTW though not a physics professor but I am an Engineer and did lecture at Cov Uni many moons ago
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#8 Post by Samray » Wed Feb 24, 2010 9:01 pm

Nooj wrote: Be interesting to find out what the difference in centrifugal force actually is. Any Physics professors on here?
A Physics professor worth his salt would tell you there is no such thing as centrifugal force. :smt002

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#9 Post by D-Rider » Wed Feb 24, 2010 9:25 pm

Samray wrote:
Nooj wrote: Be interesting to find out what the difference in centrifugal force actually is. Any Physics professors on here?
A Physics professor worth his salt would tell you there is no such thing as centrifugal force. :smt002
Indeed :smt023
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#10 Post by Nooj » Wed Feb 24, 2010 9:37 pm

The differences I quoted were between the weight of the OZ rims that I measured myself and the weight of the brembo rims that someone else weighed and posted up. They were the weight of the rims themselves but as the tyres and disks are a constant (for comparison) the difference in mass is the same whether or not you include these items.
I can't get my head round that. The weight of the gloop may make up 40% of the difference in weight between the bare OZ and bare Brembo rim, but it won't make up 40% of the difference in centrifugal forces between an OZ rim with tyre and disks and a Brembo rim with tyre and disks would it? And that's what you'd notice on the road.
Certainly, even an average rider like myself can easily notice the difference in the speed of steering between a bike with (forged) OZ wheels and the standard Brembos
I know that 'cos I've got them as well :smt003

Go on then, what's the 'proper' term for what everyone else knows a Centrifugal Force?
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#11 Post by D-Rider » Wed Feb 24, 2010 10:03 pm

Nooj wrote: I can't get my head round that. The weight of the gloop may make up 40% of the difference in weight between the bare OZ and bare Brembo rim, but it won't make up 40% of the difference in centrifugal forces between an OZ rim with tyre and disks and a Brembo rim with tyre and disks would it? And that's what you'd notice on the road.
No it will probably make up more than 40% of the difference in gyroscopic force as it will be concentrated near the circumference of the tyre whereas the mass saving in the wheels is effectively acting at a smaller radius.


Nooj wrote: Go on then, what's the 'proper' term for what everyone else knows a Centrifugal Force?
What people refer to as centrifugal force is a perceived force that flings things away from the axis of rotation.
This is a false understanding of what's going on - there is no force flinging things outwards.
There is a force that acts towards the axis of rotation called centripetal force that prevents every atom of your wheel from just travelling straight on in the direction it is moving and keeps it turning in a circular wheel-type motion.

..... but we're not talking about these forces here, we're talking about gyroscopic forces and angular momentum.
:smt001

All of this said, I'm concerned that this discussion is going to mislead people into thinking that I'm arguing against using this gloop stuff - I'm not - and I hope it makes a good business for you.
I just asked a few questions out of curiosity but they seem to have spawned a discussion that has gone off on a tangent (oh damn - someone must have removed the centripetal force).

People please consider the benefits of this stuff on it's puncture repair/avoidance properties and the hassle it can save you :smt004
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#12 Post by Kwackerz » Tue Mar 30, 2010 3:17 pm

I think i'll invest in some once the GPZ has finished shedding the rust in it's fuel tank (dont suppose it doubles up as a fuel tank liner, does it? :smt002 )
I reckon £20 spent on puncturesafe would save me... mmm a fiver in fags at the side of the road, a tenner in touchup paint when Mr Recovery straps my bike to a trailer with shitty old straps, probably a fiver (i didnt say that, right?) in flowers for the meal Im guaranteed to have missed that the missus cooked expecting me home on time and probably a tenner in beechams hot lemon, strepsils and vicks for the cold I guarantee i wouldve got waiting for Mr recovery to turn up. Anyone else notice how it rains when you break down? or is that just me?

Either way I reckon its going to be worth it.

Just need to go and fix the bike... :smt012
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#13 Post by Nooj » Tue Mar 30, 2010 8:56 pm

Good egg, will try not to sell it all in the mean time.
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#14 Post by Aladinsaneuk » Tue Mar 30, 2010 9:05 pm

suggest you take a lot to national aprilia meet :)


Let's face it, you wouldn't go to a nurse to get good advice on a problem with a Falco - you'd choose an Engineer or a mechanic...


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#15 Post by Nooj » Tue Mar 30, 2010 9:36 pm

Will be taking a 20 litre tub and the magic pump rather than individual bottles.
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