(note: I'll try to remember to update this thread with details of components I've used once I've checked what they are)
The Problem:
- It is not always easy to work out how to connect new electrical items to the bike – and where these items may draw significant current, how to wire them in so that they don’t overload existing circuits or remain turned on when the ignition is turned off – potentially flattening the battery if you forget to switch off the heated grips (or whatever you are powering).
The Simple Solution:
- Run a new power feed from the battery that is only switched on when the ignition switch is turned on.
- Basically, all you need is some wire of sufficient gauge for whatever current you will be supplying (with appropriate connectors), an in-line fuse, a relay and a diode (probably the diode is not so important here but force of habit requires)
- * Put the fuse close to the battery – you don’t want the unfused length of wire to be too great.
* Make sure that connections in your wiring are well insulated.
* You can decide how you pick up your +Acc line (this is a feed on the bike that is only powered when the ignition is on – we only use this to control the relay that supplies the new feed). See below for details of how I have made this connection.
The circuit below is what I have implemented instead of the one described above:
Improvement:
- The first circuit only provides a feed when the ignition is on, but it always provides that feed when the ignition is on – whether you want it on or not. The circuit below adds a push button switch and a relay to give you control to only turn it on when you want to.
This is an advantage on bikes like the Falco that really don’t want any extra load on the battery when you want to start it. So …. When you’re riding in winter with those heated grips on, roll up to the fuel station, turn off the bike while you fill up then come to re start, the auxiliary power circuit will be off until you consciously push the button to turn it on …. So avoiding the situation with the first circuit of the heated grips (or whatever) being turned back on as soon as the ignition is turned on again.
- * Put the fuse close to the battery – you don’t want the unfused length of wire to be too great.
* Make sure that connections in your wiring are well insulated.
* You can decide how you pick up your +Acc line (this is a feed on the bike that is only powered when the ignition is on – we only use this to control the relay that supplies the new feed). See below for details of how I have made this connection.
* The push button switch is illuminated internally by an LED to show when the circuit is powered.
Where I have picked up the +Acc supply:
- I took the feed to control my relays from the fuse box on the right, just inside the fairing (near the throttle/ front brake) – though there are a number of other places you can connect to if they suit you better
I’ve spliced into the fused side of Fuse E (Ignition 1 / Starter)
Looking at the back of the fusebox, this is the top left hand wire.
I’ve used one of those automotive IDC connectors and positioned it so that it is inside the sleeving that all of the wires run through (I’ve pulled it out for the picture)
