Fairing removal question.

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jayboy · #1 Post by **jayboy** » Tue Aug 18, 2009 12:30 pm

Afternoon chaps.

Need a quick tip for fairing removal. Do I HAVE to start at the bottom to get the top fairing off? I can't decide by looking at it just now if the top will come off with the sides still attached or not. I am guessing not, but am open to pleaseant surprises.

Need to get in behin the clocks to sort out the wiring of the gear indicator - i may end up removing it though. Plus I'm going to check and tighten the bracket and fairing to try and eliminate some of the high speed shake I have going on. My RSV one was pretty loose on inspection, but had been up the track before I bought it.

minime · #2 Post by **minime** » Tue Aug 18, 2009 12:34 pm

If you need access to the wires behind the dash you could try first to take
off the windscreen en the underlying panel. This gives you a bit of access to the cables there.

If you need to take off the top fairing you need to work bottom up! You can remove the sidepanels without completely taking off the chin spoiler. With the sidepanels removed you can remove the top fairing. (don't forget sreen and mirrors first)

D-Rider · #3 Post by **D-Rider** » Tue Aug 18, 2009 1:20 pm

Yep, what minime said - it doesn't take that long to remove the various panels.

Firestarter · #4 Post by **Firestarter** » Tue Aug 18, 2009 2:14 pm

D-Rider wrote:Yep, what minime said - it doesn't take that long to remove the various panels.

Nope, I would imagine putting them back on is what takes the time...

jayboy · #5 Post by **jayboy** » Tue Aug 18, 2009 2:34 pm

Cheers, now then do I have to undo the 58 screen screws to get the top fairing off, or can I take the whole top off after I remove the mirrors?

Dunno why it's not in the manual, the RSV one included all this, but I guess cause it covered even the fluid fillers.

k1w1boy · #6 Post by **k1w1boy** » Tue Aug 18, 2009 2:36 pm

...I'll (maybe!) doing this soon too to replace the front subframe: do you think the instruments will have to be unplugged or just supported when I do this? If they do need unplugging, will it affect the data stored on them or is that 'saved' every ignition on/ignition off?

jayboy · #7 Post by **jayboy** » Tue Aug 18, 2009 2:45 pm

I reckon they could be left plugged in really, depending on where the wires go through / around the bracket.
Kiwi, lets meet at the services again and do them both in the car park! LOL

Seriously though, I might have a crack tonight, so I'll take a pic or 2 of behind there and see what's what.

Falcopops · #8 Post by **Falcopops** » Tue Aug 18, 2009 10:20 pm

jayboy wrote:Cheers, now then do I have to undo the 58 screen screws to get the top fairing off, or can I take the whole top off after I remove the mirrors?

Don't need to take the screen or the dashcover off, just the mirrors.

The headlight will need to be disconnected 1st as you'll have your hands full of front fairing when you realise this if you don't unhook it (guess how I know).

It's a bit heavy 'coz of the light and you'll need to spread the snorkel covers as you pull the whole lot foreward off the bike.

Be careful putting it back on. Those snorkel covers just love to get behind the fastner clips and scratch themselves to buggery.

Falcopops · #9 Post by **Falcopops** » Tue Aug 18, 2009 10:24 pm

k1w1boy wrote:...I'll (maybe!) doing this soon too to replace the front subframe: do you think the instruments will have to be unplugged or just supported when I do this? If they do need unplugging, will it affect the data stored on them or is that 'saved' every ignition on/ignition off?

If you unplug the dash I don't think the saved data will be affected. I reckon I've done this without any losses, but I could be mistaken.

If you're replacing the subframe, I'd suggest removing the dash. Leaving it dangling is likely to do more harm than good.

D-Rider · #10 Post by **D-Rider** » Tue Aug 18, 2009 10:37 pm

If you unplug it, you will reset everything except for the odometer (total mileage) ... but this will show in km when you power it up again until you change it back to miles.
Clock will reset, Vmax, Vave etc will reset to zero, tacho warning will reset to 6k, speedo will reset to km/h.

Can't remember for sure, but i think you will probably need to unplug it.

k1w1boy · #11 Post by **k1w1boy** » Tue Aug 18, 2009 10:59 pm

...can't get frame from Al (I forget his username) until the 2nd week of Sept so will be coming to the ARS barn thingy with my current coathanger wire front end configuration - am expecting a fair amount of grief generally about the state of the contraption. The front end is secure but flexible - I've damaged one of the snorkels and lost a few fairing bolts because of this movement ... may end up replacing the rest of these bolts with cable ties so I don't lose any more

jayboy · #12 Post by **jayboy** » Wed Aug 19, 2009 7:41 am

Wish I'd read about the clips on the snorkel covers before I took this lot off last night.
It was pretty quick and easy, apart from the fact I ended up chickening out of disconnecting the gear indicator as it must connect to the rev counter. The wires disappear inside the clocks and I think I might just try resetting it so it works and mounting the display more securely.
Mind you, with the front removed, the 8 triple clamp bolts were just winking at me, so I decided to drop the front end a ring more than it was. So not a total waste of time...
Kiwi - I think you can probably get some more of your wire or cable ties and suspend the clocks if you want to, but looks like it'd be far easier just to remove them for access. Resetting the kph>mph and rev light etc isn't too hard now is it?!

k1w1boy · #13 Post by **k1w1boy** » Thu Aug 20, 2009 7:03 pm

jayboy wrote: Kiwi - I think you can probably get some more of your wire or cable ties and suspend the clocks if you want to, but looks like it'd be far easier just to remove them for access. Resetting the kph>mph and rev light etc isn't too hard now is it?!

...my mechanical ineptitude knows no bounds Jay

I'll be at the forum bash with bits stuck on with blutack and clay but I will be there