
sachs rear shock
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- Track Day Addict
- Posts: 147
- Joined: Tue Jan 16, 2007 12:56 pm
- Location: West Sussex
- Main bike: vfr 750ft
sachs rear shock
The two collars at the top of the shock which control the preload. Do they both unfasten in the same direction and is it anticlockwise. Can't budge the top one at the moment 

Re: sachs rear shock
...... yes ..... if you notice the thread cut into the shock, it only goes one way - so both collars rotate the same way. They work like any pair of locknuts. Of course, to stop them locking you have to hold the bottom one still while slackening the top one. If it won't budge, 'tighten' the bottom one a bit (as though you are increasing pre load) to separate the two collars. If that doesn't work you need to free up the top collar - start with some WD40 or some penetrating oil (leave it for a while to soak in).gazuk wrote:The two collars at the top of the shock which control the preload. Do they both unfasten in the same direction and is it anticlockwise. Can't budge the top one at the moment
If that doesn't work we're into other methods .... maybe involving some heat ...
If you have the standard falco shock it will probably be stuck solid with hardened wax coating aprilia spray them with. I found it helped if you used a solvent first to remove this, white spirit is a good one.
The rings are near impossible to shift with a C-spanner unless you remove the shock and fit in a vice first. You could knock it around with a drift but it will make a mess of the rings. I found a nice tool 3/8 drive that fits a ratchet, this makes the job easier.
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ ... e=MRHSW783
If you are on the off side of the bike (Foot brake side) the top ring will need to turn anti clockwise looking down from the top of the shock to loosen.
I hope 
The rings are near impossible to shift with a C-spanner unless you remove the shock and fit in a vice first. You could knock it around with a drift but it will make a mess of the rings. I found a nice tool 3/8 drive that fits a ratchet, this makes the job easier.
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ ... e=MRHSW783
If you are on the off side of the bike (Foot brake side) the top ring will need to turn anti clockwise looking down from the top of the shock to loosen.


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- Track Day Addict
- Posts: 147
- Joined: Tue Jan 16, 2007 12:56 pm
- Location: West Sussex
- Main bike: vfr 750ft
yup, it seems to be stuck solid, although I have to admit I only have an Ohlins C spanner which does not ftr the collar correctly, it just means only one ot the 'teeth' is slotted in to tthe collar and the other rests on top. But I also tried the drift method (but used a screwdriver wrapped in a cloth - didn't work, so collars are a little worse for wear. But it's not as if I've devalued the shock
). I will try the white spirit method, but to be honest, if that don't work and I have to remove the shock, it will be to replace it with a better one.
Back on the sidestand issue, it does seem alot more stable on the gsxr stand with the front wheel turned completely to the left.

Back on the sidestand issue, it does seem alot more stable on the gsxr stand with the front wheel turned completely to the left.
Problem is not enough room to use a C-spanner with the shock in place. I bought the small 3/8 ratchet spanner and found it much easier to use with the shock in situ.
The shock is relatively easy to remove from the top with an Abba type stand so I would recommend freeing it up this way if you can and your finngers will thank you.
Trouble is now amount of fiddling with the standard shock will bring much improvement.
The shock is relatively easy to remove from the top with an Abba type stand so I would recommend freeing it up this way if you can and your finngers will thank you.

Trouble is now amount of fiddling with the standard shock will bring much improvement.