Falco oil change

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Chabby · #1 Post by **Chabby** » Mon Sep 08, 2008 8:54 pm

Does anyone bother taking the hex head drain plug out when draining the oil?
I can't find an allen key which is a good enough fit to make me confident it won't slip with a bit of pressure on it.
Will I get enough oil out just by draining the oil tank?
My Falco still has the crimped fasteners on the hose to the oil tank.
Does that mean the gauze filter has never been cleaned?

Falcopops · #2 Post by **Falcopops** » Mon Sep 08, 2008 9:37 pm

Deffo take the plug out, but absolutely get the proper fitting allen key or suffer the consequences. A friendly gorilla would come in handy too, apparently Aprilia employed one to put them all in at the factory.

I've seen the crimp clips re-used so it may have been done. I and others have used jubilee's. I used some PTFE plumbers tape on the threads when replacing the oil tank pipe, not sure if that's absolutely necessary, but if you've got some, shouldn't do any harm.

Falco9 · #3 Post by **Falco9** » Mon Sep 08, 2008 9:43 pm

I'd definately remove the hex head as it has a magnet attached to it and as such it always has a very fine mix of metals attached to it. Plus you can use this as an early warning of any major failures such as bearing wear etc.... The secret is to get the best fitting allen key you can get (I actually ground down a larger one to get the best fit) and give it a sharp but hard hit with a hammer to free it off.

Most of these bolts appear to have been fitted by the biggest / strongest Italian Aprilia could find, when you re-fit it don't overtighten it and it'll come off next time just fine

In 5yrs of ownership and many many oil changes I never found anything at all in the strainer to the oil tank, it was always spotlessly clean so I wouldn't worry about it

F9

HowardQ · #4 Post by **HowardQ** » Mon Sep 08, 2008 9:57 pm

Not sure about the earlier oil changes as these were done by dealers, but since then never had a problem. I ALWAYS remove the plug whilst the engine is still hot, which I find makes it much easier.

Fausto · #5 Post by **Fausto** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 7:15 am

Agreed with the others - you definately want to remove it.

As with any bolt you think may be tight, it's best to give it the full frontal assault from the start. The worst thing is to begin with a poorly fitting spanner/key and damage the head only to make removal much harder once you get the serious equipment out.

As suggested - make sure the hex key is a tight fit good quality one. Give it a few sharp taps first. An impact driver or airline wrench would be best and I've heard it recommended to put something like lapping paste or cutting paste on the tool tip first to help it grip.

Samray · #6 Post by **Samray** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 7:26 am

I've occasionally had to find a bolt head to fit and locked a couple of nuts on the other end to put a spanner on.