Doing the valve clearances

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spiderwheels · #1 Post by **spiderwheels** » Sat Feb 11, 2017 8:37 pm

Has anyone changed the shims using the cam-gear removal method? I can see it's just about impossible to get at the tensioners for either cylinder so I am considering taking the gears off the cams as per the helpful chap here:
http://web.archive.org/web/200910260031 ... lves2.html

However, even with this method there is only enough clearance between the cam gear bolts and the frame for an allen key and certainly no room for a torque wrench.

Has anyone here had success with this method?

#2 Post by **mangocrazy** » Sat Feb 11, 2017 9:57 pm

I think the recommended way is to 'deflate' the hydraulic cam chain tensioners by undoing a particularly hard to get at M8 allen bolt. I think I posted up a thread when I did the same a year or so back. I'll see if I can find it.

#3 Post by **mangocrazy** » Sat Feb 11, 2017 10:08 pm

Yes, it was back in 2014 (doesn't time fly when you're having fun?) and is here:

ridersite.com/viewtopic.php?t=11956

#4 Post by **mangocrazy** » Sat Feb 11, 2017 10:26 pm

On thinking back, I found that I needed a 1/4" socket set (with knuckle joint and wobble bars of different lengths) and the same in 3/8". A set of ratchet spannesr would also be very handy. If you haven't already got a 1/4" socket set, I cannot recommend this one highly enough:

https://www.ffx.co.uk/tools/product/Bah ... Inch-Drive

If you're in a rush and there's a Screwfix near you, they also stock them. Add a knuckle joint and few more allen hex bits and you're good to go. I hardly ever use Torx bits, so replaced them with as many different sized hex allen bits as I could.

I remember using parts from both a 1/4" and 3/8" socket set, with adaptors between sizes as required. You'll need adaptors both ways; i.e. 1/4 to 3/8 and vice versa (if you understand what I mean). It's a good way of improving your tool kit...

spiderwheels · #5 Post by **spiderwheels** » Sat Feb 11, 2017 10:40 pm

Thanks. Great information. I'll be down screwfix ASAP for a decent 1/4 inch drive and various other tools.

Could you enlighten me a bit on the mystery in this:

With the rads off I had much better access to the front head and following a phone call to Griff (and the knowledge that there is a way to lock the crank so the valve gear doesn't move while the cams and balance shaft on the rear head are out) emboldened me to try again. I also managed to find a way of getting the sprockets sufficiently out of the way that I could undo the two M6 bolts that are behind the sprockets.

How did you lock the rear cylinder and what did you have to do to get at the bolts behind the sprockets?

I might have to PM you if things get messy

Dalemac · #6 Post by **Dalemac** » Sat Feb 11, 2017 11:17 pm

TO be honest, I'm dreading checking mine because I know they are going to be out of limit as they were on the limit last year.

More info on reshimming the better!

spiderwheels · #7 Post by **spiderwheels** » Sun Feb 12, 2017 8:28 am

I've got 3 inlet valves that are too tight and everything else is right on the limit so I might be changing the lot just to make sure I don't have to do it again!

It's very fiddly getting the front rocker covers off. The worst part seems to be getting at the tensioners which I will figure out today.

Dalemac · #8 Post by **Dalemac** » Sun Feb 12, 2017 10:48 am

Tensioners are easier said on get at swivel joints and extension bars.

You'll need to remove one of the coolant tubes if I remember correctly. Which means draining coolant.

spiderwheels · #9 Post by **spiderwheels** » Sun Feb 12, 2017 4:44 pm

Dalemac wrote:Tensioners are easier said on get at swivel joints and extension bars.

You'll need to remove one of the coolant tubes if I remember correctly. Which means draining coolant.

If you mean this pipe (on the coolant manifold):
http://imgur.com/a/lxLZ2

there's no chance of removing it as the clip is the wrong way up

fatboy · #10 Post by **fatboy** » Sun Feb 12, 2017 6:07 pm

The more I read the less I want to get into this..
I'll chuck mine in for a major service and mot

spiderwheels · #11 Post by **spiderwheels** » Sun Feb 12, 2017 6:11 pm

fatboy wrote:The more I read the less I want to get into this..
I'll chuck mine in for a major service and mot

Where's the fun in that?

Dalemac · #12 Post by **Dalemac** » Sun Feb 12, 2017 6:17 pm

Yeah that's the one.

I'm sure I've removed mine on multiple occasions...

#13 Post by **mangocrazy** » Sun Feb 12, 2017 7:07 pm

Hi spidey, I'll reply to your PM as well, but probably best if we also get the info 'out in the open'...

First point is locking the crank; don't even think about proceeding without doing this. You'll need either a length of 8mm studding (again Screwfix sell this) or a very long (about 150mm) M8 bolt. A couple of months after I did mine I found a long bolt that would do the job perfectly - fairly typical.

Do you have the V990 Engine manual in softcopy? If not, then you need to download it from Martin Poll's site. The Falco workshop manual has little or no real engine info - it's all in the V990 manual, which covers RSV, Falco, Futura and Caponord variants. How you go about locking the engine at TDC is shown on Pages 3-8-00 and 3-9-00. I'd suggest reading and re-reading all the bits that deal with the valve train and printing those pages out so you can make reference to them.

Once you've got your tool in the right hole (fnarr, fnarr) it's really a question of getting the IN and EX markers lined up on the head in question as described in the manual and then wiggling your tool about while tring to screw it in. When you can feel it go in and it starts screwing in smoothly a feeling of immense satisfaction ensues. (add as many fnarrs as you deem appropriate)...

Congratulations; the motor is locked at TDC. You will need to go through the same procedure for both heads to get the crank locked at TDC.

From memory, I'm pretty sure that the plastic chain guard thing has to come off. Be careful to stuff rags down every conceivable orifice to stop nuts bolts and washers from disappearing into the bowels of the motor. That really would put a crimp in your day...

I'm racking my brains to think what I did to get at the bolts behind the sprockets, but unfortunately I'd need the motor in front of me to remember, probably. I have a recollection of cable tieing the chain to both sprockets (through one of the holes thoughtfully provided) such that they couldn't move, and then undoing the 3 allen bolts on each sprocket and wiggling both sprockets and chain off as one assembly. The allen bolts can only go back on in the correct positon, and the crank is locked, so nothing can change relative positions.

It's easy me saying that, and I do remember checking and double-checking that my logic was correct before proceeding, but eventually took the plunge. Before you re-attach the allen bolts, clean them thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol or similar and use Loctite on them.

I think that's as much as my poor forgetful brain can remember at the moment...

spiderwheels · #14 Post by **spiderwheels** » Sun Feb 12, 2017 9:57 pm

Hi Mango,

Thanks for the extra info. I do have the manual although it doesn't describe the procedure but rather how to dismantle the heads and reassemble them. Checking the clearance is written as part of the reassembly i.e. starting with the cams already out.

I was down at screwfix earlier today and picked up some M8 threaded bar that was already chamfered at the end to slot straight in to the hole in the crankshaft. With a couple of nuts on the end it works perfectly and will lock either cylinder at TDC.

I also managed to get the rear tensioner off. Whoever put it back on last time did it up far too tight - it's only supposed to be 20nm.

I just read somewhere else about removing the cam gears to get at the bolts underneath...

#15 Post by **mangocrazy** » Sun Feb 12, 2017 11:14 pm

Yes, the more I think about it, you have to undo the allen bolts and take the sprockets off. But I would definitely tiewrap the chain to both sprockets before doing that. Tippex marks get rubbed off, but if the chain is physically locked to the sprocket it ain't going anywhere.