Chain and sprockets - education needed

Message

squadron Nero · #1 Post by **squadron Nero** » Mon Nov 24, 2014 11:20 am

So I've managed to go ten years without having to change a chain or sprockets on any of my bikes as such I don't know shit about what's best.

I know I want to go down a tooth on the front so would that mean I need a 15/44 sprocket set? And if I do that what length chain would I need? Also width 525?

I want some bling and thought I might try and seek out a bargain at the NEC tomorrow. However I have no clue on what brands to avoid or whats the nuts...

Yes I've tried searching on here but I'm getting pissed off with the "cannot perform another search for 30 seconds" bullshit

Educate me please

Firestarter · #2 Post by **Firestarter** » Mon Nov 24, 2014 1:19 pm

If you're on stock gearing (16/41), this is (IIRC) a 106-link chain. If you're just dropping the front (15/41) then you do not need to change the chain length. If you're changing the rear, you might need to. There was on the forum (in the search

) a chain configurator that someone posted, but I've not looked for it. Probably in Technical

Standard width for the Falco is 525. so that's what you're after. Not sure if the Falco would lend itself to dropping to a lighter chain (likely to snap). also look for the heavier duty versions.

Chains - DID, AFAM (I've had an AFAM for about 15,000 miles and seems spot on to me)
Sprockets - Renthal, Supersprox, others.

Take a look online at somewhere like Demon Tweeks or B&C Express - they've got listings for the "standard" fittings against individual bikes, so you can see the sort of kit they're saying will work, then see what you can get if for at the show

wayno · #3 Post by **wayno** » Mon Nov 24, 2014 3:28 pm

Most kits you'll buy will come with JT sprockets, these are a good standard make (no bells or whistles), I just bought a front sprocket from them alone so I can chop and change from 15 to 16 front.

You won't need a change in chain length for this, however if you change the rear by more than 1 tooth you should change the chain length, remember it's all about ratios so changing one too on the front is equivalent to 3 on the rear.

Don't try to drop any more off the front though or you'll destroy chains and risk one snapping on you.

Another word of warning is that when you swap the rear, check the thickness of the central hub as most companies thin them out to save weight, on the aprilias this can cause your hub studs to clash with the swingarm (it did on mine and I know a few others have had this), I went for the simple fix of making a spacer to put the hub back to standard thickness).

You can't go wrong with a DID or regina chain, but I think most of them are pretty good now, just make sure it's a sealed chain (o ring or x ring), but to be honest I think you'll struggle to find a non-sealed one anyway in that fitment.

And lastly whatever you do, don't put one with a clip link on or you'll be dead before you hit 50 miles. Make sure it's a rivet soft link and if you're not confident about doing it get someone to do it for you and show you how (it's pretty simple)

randomsquid · #4 Post by **randomsquid** » Mon Nov 24, 2014 5:48 pm

Wemoto is another good online shop to check, they don't generally sell crap so anything they sell would do you.

The 30 quid chain I bought off ebay for my commuter bike is about as good as you'd expect for 30 quid...

squadron Nero · #5 Post by **squadron Nero** » Mon Nov 24, 2014 7:41 pm

Cheers lads

I'll let you kno how I get on

Falcopops · #6 Post by **Falcopops** » Thu Nov 27, 2014 11:11 am

I'd debate the point about not using a clip link. I've been running them for many years without any problems

Viking · #7 Post by **Viking** » Fri Nov 28, 2014 12:35 am

Falcopops wrote:I'd debate the point about not using a clip link. I've been running them for many years without any problems

I agree here. The load on the link's pins are not lateral (side-to-side), so there is very little (if any) load on the spring clip.

Given that you have to squeeze the hell out of the link-plate-thing to get it on the pins, there's very little chance of it coming off.

wayno · #8 Post by **wayno** » Fri Nov 28, 2014 8:04 am

Then you lot are very lucky, I am no motor mechanic but when regina say that a standard river link can be used up to a maximum of 250cc and a press fit clip link up to a maximum of 400cc for short distances and moderate speeds then I believe them, I have seen what a snapped chain can do.

http://www.reginachain.it/eng/use_and_m ... 2.shtml#02

flatlander · #9 Post by **flatlander** » Fri Nov 28, 2014 8:50 am

http://www.gearingcommander.com/

squadron Nero · #10 Post by **squadron Nero** » Sat Nov 29, 2014 1:31 pm

Thanks for all the advice guys. I got a 15t afam front 41t supersprox rear And afam x ring gold chain. So alls well.

I assume I need to clean all the wax off the chain and lube it with the correct stuff before fitting? Would anyone recommend soaking it in oil overnight before fitting or is that just unnecessary?

Firestarter · #11 Post by **Firestarter** » Sat Nov 29, 2014 4:00 pm

Don't think so, maybe just lube with your usual stuff as a top-up. At least, that's what I did 15,000 miles ago

wayno · #12 Post by **wayno** » Mon Dec 01, 2014 8:50 am

Make sure you pack behind the o-rings of the soft link with the grease supplied.

Firestarter · #13 Post by **Firestarter** » Tue Dec 02, 2014 7:55 am

If you don't mind, how much was the chain & sprockets? Did you make much of a saving over buying in the shops? Mine are due soon, so wondering if I'd have saved some cash by going to the show

squadron Nero · #14 Post by **squadron Nero** » Tue Dec 02, 2014 4:56 pm

Chain £80
Rear sprox £45
Front sprox £15

Would've been £170 to buy the lot from their website. I managed to get a bit more off too as I bundled the asv levers in with the deal.

Aladinsaneuk · #15 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Tue Dec 02, 2014 10:06 pm

asking folk here to lube somethiing with their normal stuff is a mental image i could have done with out