Chain adjuster stuck

[spiderwheels]

One of my chain adjusters only winds out a couple of centimetres then gets very stiff to turn and eventually sticks solid. It's a long way from the end of adjustment.

Has anyone else had this problem or have any idea what I can do with it?

[HisNibbs]

Yes. I used penetrating oil etc. but still it didn't free up properly. I ended up shearing it off. I bodged up a temporary fix with a cut down bolt and nut, and then sourced a replacement swing arm. There are few of those about for some strange reason.... Three or four years later the temporary bodge is still in place and the replacement swing arm under my bench.

So if its any help that is what you shouldn't do with it.

[Falcopops]

I've heard of this happening before, didn't know HisNibbs had done it too.

Clearly a good soaking in penetrating oil is the go, but if thats not helping there may be some merit to winding it in as far as you can then squirting a bunch of penetrating oil into the swing arm and sloshing it to the back of the bolt.

Obviously this would require removal of the swingarm and even then it may not work

[Firestarter]

I've heard of this happening before, didn't know HisNibbs had done it too.

Clearly a good soaking in penetrating oil is the go, but if thats not helping there may be some merit to winding it in as far as you can then squirting a bunch of penetrating oil into the swing arm and sloshing it to the back of the bolt.

Obviously this would require removal of the swingarm and even then it may not work

I'm sure there are better ways of getting the front of the swingarm higher than the back... usually involving judicious use of the right wrist!

Something I may need to add to my winter fettle, wind it all the way out to clear the threads. Probably something we should do each tyre change, although that's then a faff getting the wheel re-aligned.

I await Mart's comment of this being wholly un-needed on a Fut...

[spiderwheels]

I've heard of this happening before, didn't know HisNibbs had done it too.

Clearly a good soaking in penetrating oil is the go, but if thats not helping there may be some merit to winding it in as far as you can then squirting a bunch of penetrating oil into the swing arm and sloshing it to the back of the bolt.

Obviously this would require removal of the swingarm and even then it may not work

If I'm going to be removing swing arms it may be time to get an RSV item... :)

Also contemplating something like cannibalising an old 10mm socket and getting a nut welded on the end to sleeve over the current adjuster, thus adding some length.

[HisNibbs]

As I said penetrating oil didn't seem to work. It was stiff but turning for a while, but oiling it up and giving it the old in out didn't cut it. (there's an opportunity for some of you!)
I reckon the bolt had taken some load at some point and was bent or at least distorted.

[spiderwheels]

As I said penetrating oil didn't seem to work. It was stiff but turning for a while, but oiling it up and giving it the old in out didn't cut it. (there's an opportunity for some of you!)
I reckon the bolt had taken some load at some point and was bent or at least distorted.

I suspect it is distorted too

[FalcoDazz]

Out of interest which side adjuster sheared? Mine was the right hand side. I'm not sure I can take HisNibbs advice as mine has sheared right at the point where it flush with the thread in the swinger end. I was going to try and get some penetrating oil inside the swinger through the rear caliper locating lug on the inside of the swing arm, but that wasn't responding to gentle force either and I didn't want another disaster today!

Now need to source a tool to take the swinger off. Does anybody have the part no. for the tool that removes the castellated nut holding the swing arm?

[Dalemac]

Happened to me earlier on in the year, I actually snapped the adjuster bolt flush with the swingarm. Myself and a neighbour just drilled it out and retapped the thread, then used a new bolt, not had an issue since, and i now alsways remove the bolt when adjusting the chain. A bad of threadlock will help keep the threads nice and tidy.

[control_67]

My left hand adjuster was stiff and the bolt head rounded a bit, I managed to wind it out with a 6 sided socket so it would drive the faces of the bolt rather than the corners and replaced the pair with titanium, with a nice smear of copper grease. I got the ti adjusters from eBay for not too much money. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... 1269941334

[Falcopops]

Now need to source a tool to take the swinger off. Does anybody have the part no. for the tool that removes the castellated nut holding the swing arm?

Try a cycle shop, one of the shimano bicycle gear hubs use a tool that fits the swingarm nut, I got one years ago for 10 quid

[KitchenSync]

It's the water inside that's rusted the end of the bolt. Mine only just came out intact.

I was going to say get a tube on a can of WD40 inside one of the chain guard mounts but of course I'm thinking of my RSV arm - I don't expect the stock arm is tapped for mounting things?

[FalcoDazz]

What does anyone suggest after i get the snapped stud out (assuming it will come out!)? Helicoil or re-tap?

Hisnibbs can you post a photo of your 'bodge' pleae?

[fatboy]

A re tap is preferable to helicoil. Drill the old stud starting with a small bit work your way up size wise, hopefully you will be able to remove the remnants of the stud which has become a thin sleeve

[Dalemac]

A re tap is preferable to helicoil. Drill the old stud starting with a small bit work your way up size wise, hopefully you will be able to remove the remnants of the stud which has become a thin sleeve

pPrecisely. If you want to helicoil then essentially you drill the whole thing out with a larger drill bit, probablky 10mm in this case, and then insert the helicoil and tap that.

If you can do what fatboy said and drill it out by starting smalland working your way up, that would be best. You might even be able to get a small stud extractor in there and free it up from there.