Removing the handlebar?

Message

Viking · #1 Post by **Viking** » Sun Apr 20, 2014 4:38 am

Hey all,

I made a stupid mistake and knocked the bike over in the garage. (Cue lots and lots of very rude words!!).

I bent the RH handlebar and before I can replace it / straighten it, I need to know how the hell does it come off?

Thanks,
V

blinkey501 · #2 Post by **blinkey501** » Sun Apr 20, 2014 5:56 am

You have to remove the fork(s) to get the bar out mate.

Falco Frank · #3 Post by **Falco Frank** » Sun Apr 20, 2014 10:17 am

Bolted to the underside of the top yoke...

Yep, its a pain.

Either remove the top yoke and whole lot or Blinkey says, drop the forks. You might get away with just dropping one at a time if your a big strong, strapping lad - LOL.

Good luck.

NB - Woodcraft clipons are very good if you fancy a change:

http://www.biketorqueracing.co.uk/chass ... t-clip-ons

Viking · #4 Post by **Viking** » Mon Apr 21, 2014 7:13 am

Thanks guys, I was afraid of that.

Looks like I'm in for some "fun" getting the bent one off. Is it easier to pull the top triple-clamp off, or drop the forks? (I don't have a front stand, so I'd be needing a miracle to hold the bike up whilst I pull the forks out.

Oh, and no, I am not going to turn it into a Falcuono whilst it's in pieces.

BTW - thanks for the link to the Woodcrafts. I've seen them on eBay (amongst all the Chinese stuff) and thought they'd be pretty cool.

Aladinsaneuk · #5 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Mon Apr 21, 2014 7:48 am

Depends if you have a key large enough to undo the triple....

I think taking that off is the easiest

D-Rider · #6 Post by **D-Rider** » Mon Apr 21, 2014 9:11 am

Aladinsaneuk wrote:Depends if you have a key large enough to undo the triple....

I think taking that off is the easiest

Large enough and strong enough .... The nut thingy is done up to some huge torque. I destroyed several tools before I invested in something man enough for the job.

Aladinsaneuk · #7 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Mon Apr 21, 2014 10:19 am

You didn't try putting your weight on it then?

I bought a car sump plug kit....

D-Rider · #8 Post by **D-Rider** » Mon Apr 21, 2014 11:14 am

Aladinsaneuk wrote:
I bought a car sump plug kit....

That was my first attempt ..... Fail

I needed something that I could use with a 1/2" drive set as the 3/8" drive stuff was not up to the job.

Aladinsaneuk · #9 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Mon Apr 21, 2014 11:40 am

Nod

I picked up a 1/2" shifter from halfrauds for 15 quid....

I bought it initially for undoing the axle nuts on Hanna's old car

I have found it useful

randomsquid · #10 Post by **randomsquid** » Mon Apr 21, 2014 12:00 pm

D-Rider wrote:
Aladinsaneuk wrote:
I bought a car sump plug kit....
That was my first attempt ..... Fail

I needed something that I could use with a 1/2" drive set as the 3/8" drive stuff was not up to the job.

I bought a double ended sump plug thing from the local car place, wasn't much. 14mm one end and 17 on the other if I remember. One end in the hole, socket and big ass torque wrench on the other end. Also works on ER6 front axles.

Viking · #11 Post by **Viking** » Mon Apr 21, 2014 1:13 pm

Yep, looks like pulling the top plate of the triple clamp is the easiest option.

I've just read the service manual, and once I found the right section was rather dismayed to read "Unfasten and remove the upper bush". Nowhere does it say how tight the thing will be. (Until you turn the page and read that the correct torque is 100Nm

) Holy crap, that's going to be a bastard to remove...

Falcopops · #12 Post by **Falcopops** » Tue Apr 22, 2014 1:56 am

I'll go against the others and suggest it's goig to be less of a pain to get the front in the air for this.

Taking the top clamp off is a pain and with the weight is on the wheels it can be awkward to get back on too. Then there's the whole retorquing process and making sure the head bearings aren't too tight.

Remember that old beam I used in the garage in Melbourne tochange your shock? That was only held up by a block and a couple of screws at one end, so you don't need to have a massive lifting beam.

I've used ratchet straps with hooks in the past to lift the whole bike, so if you can get a hook into the garage roof beam you shold be fine. Loosen the front wheel and the right fork clamps and bar (the left side will stop it from dropping) then lift with the strap and do the swap.

Remember to follow the wheel/axle alignment process in the book when putting it all back together and make sure the fork heights are identical.

D-Rider · #13 Post by **D-Rider** » Tue Apr 22, 2014 9:03 am

Falcopops wrote:I'll go against the others and suggest it's goig to be less of a pain to get the front in the air for this.

I would agree that it's probably easier to drop the forks.

Falcopops wrote: Taking the top clamp off is a pain and with the weight is on the wheels it can be awkward to get back on too. Then there's the whole retorquing process and making sure the head bearings aren't too tight.

This is not an issue - you don't have to touch the steering head bearings when just removing the top yoke.

When you do have to remove the bottom yoke or change the steering head bearings it is a bit of a pain but in this case it's not necessary.

Aladinsaneuk · #14 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Tue Apr 22, 2014 3:48 pm

If you take the triple off then you can leave the lower section clamped so you don't have fork legs moving....

If you have the right tools I think it is easier

Falcopops · #15 Post by **Falcopops** » Wed Apr 23, 2014 8:12 am

ah yes, agreed Mr D-rider, the bearings remain untouched.

I have had difficulty getting the top clamp off and on with the front wheel on the ground. There is enough flex in the forks and steering stem to allow a bit of movement. I didn't like the ammount of force I had to use to get the clamp back on, especially with stem threads exposed.