Fitting 16F 44R sprocket combination with 108 link chain
Moderators: Aladinsaneuk, MartDude, D-Rider, Moderators
- mangocrazy
- Admin
- Posts: 3944
- Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2008 3:24 pm
- Location: Sheffield, UK
Fitting 16F 44R sprocket combination with 108 link chain
I spent a large part of the day on Saturday fitting a 16 tooth front and 44 tooth rear sprocket combination to the Falco, along with a new 108 link chain, after having done all the necessary calculations on Gearing Commander. I was slightly alarmed at how little spare space there was between tyre and mudguard flap when it was all done and dusted - the chain adjusters are almost at the closed (short) limit of adjustment with this combination.
This makes me wonder - how will a combination of a very short wheel base and lowered gearing perform? Have I inadvertently turned my Falco into a Tuono-like wheelie monster? Only one way to find out, I suppose...
Also, I hadn't realised just how tight the clearances are on a rivetted link chain. The side plate had to be clamped on in stages to get it over the soft link head. And how much rivetting is necessary to ensure the side plate stays put? I was using a Whale brand rivetting tool and 2.5lb lump hammer to try and peen the soft link over, and it didn't seem to be deforming much. I was getting slightly concerned about damaging the rear sprocket with the violence I was using.
Is there a better way, or is it par for the course?
This makes me wonder - how will a combination of a very short wheel base and lowered gearing perform? Have I inadvertently turned my Falco into a Tuono-like wheelie monster? Only one way to find out, I suppose...
Also, I hadn't realised just how tight the clearances are on a rivetted link chain. The side plate had to be clamped on in stages to get it over the soft link head. And how much rivetting is necessary to ensure the side plate stays put? I was using a Whale brand rivetting tool and 2.5lb lump hammer to try and peen the soft link over, and it didn't seem to be deforming much. I was getting slightly concerned about damaging the rear sprocket with the violence I was using.
Is there a better way, or is it par for the course?
- Falcopops
- GP Racer
- Posts: 2530
- Joined: Mon Dec 18, 2006 4:00 pm
- Location: Back to sweating in the tropics
- Main bike: Still loving the Falco
I was very wary about putting a 44 rear on with the 16 front initially as I wasn't convinced the chain would be long enough. After a lot of procrastination my hand was forced when the rear sprocket started shedding teeth.
Since the chain was already worn it all fitted up very easily. I'm expecting backlash on the pro's and con's of mixing new and worn chain and sprockets, it's not something I normally do, but I'm in a very tight budget.
So your clearance will increase with wear, nothing to wory about really providing everything is clearing.
A shortened wheelbase makes cornering and flickability easier. TBH the range of movement at the rear wheel is unlikely to make a noticeable difference, unless you were running right at the longest extremity prior to the change, you'll get used to it.
Wheelies are fun, so wring its neck hold on and cover the rear brake.
I used a non-branded chain tool and it had a good ability to compress the soft link plates and the staking part of the tool did a good job of flaring the soft heads, to the point that it took a close look to find the rivet link.
I mostly use splt links these days, only had one loose it's clip in over 6 years and since chain maintenance is a simple a regular item I'm confident running them.
Since the chain was already worn it all fitted up very easily. I'm expecting backlash on the pro's and con's of mixing new and worn chain and sprockets, it's not something I normally do, but I'm in a very tight budget.
So your clearance will increase with wear, nothing to wory about really providing everything is clearing.
A shortened wheelbase makes cornering and flickability easier. TBH the range of movement at the rear wheel is unlikely to make a noticeable difference, unless you were running right at the longest extremity prior to the change, you'll get used to it.
Wheelies are fun, so wring its neck hold on and cover the rear brake.
I used a non-branded chain tool and it had a good ability to compress the soft link plates and the staking part of the tool did a good job of flaring the soft heads, to the point that it took a close look to find the rivet link.
I mostly use splt links these days, only had one loose it's clip in over 6 years and since chain maintenance is a simple a regular item I'm confident running them.
- blinkey501
- World Champion
- Posts: 3495
- Joined: Sun May 29, 2011 6:28 pm
- Location: near doncaster
Re: Fitting 16F 44R sprocket combination with 108 link chain
mangocrazy wrote: Have I inadvertently turned my Falco into a Tuono-like wheelie monster? Only one way to find out, I suppose...
Is there a better way, or is it par for the course?
Fit a 15 tooth front. This will make things more interesting.
Also this will give you a little more slack so the adjustment is easier.

I have fitted a 15/42 on the magpie and find this suits the falco nicely.

Tolerance will be our undoing.
- Firestarter
- Twisted Firestarter
- Posts: 1429
- Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2007 8:28 am
- Location: Northwich, Cheshire
Re: Fitting 16F 44R sprocket combination with 108 link chain
What sort of link is it - I've got a Whale tool, which has a v-slot, which is fine for the solid-head rivet pins. However some links are hollow-type, and need a driver that pushes from the middle a bit, the whale tool I had did very little for this typemangocrazy wrote:And how much rivetting is necessary to ensure the side plate stays put? I was using a Whale brand rivetting tool and 2.5lb lump hammer to try and peen the soft link over, and it didn't seem to be deforming much. I was getting slightly concerned about damaging the rear sprocket with the violence I was using.
Aprilia SL1000 Falco '04 in Black & Red
- mangocrazy
- Admin
- Posts: 3944
- Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2008 3:24 pm
- Location: Sheffield, UK
Re: Fitting 16F 44R sprocket combination with 108 link chain
I think you may have spotted the flaw in my cunning plan. I was using a Whale tool and the pins are the hollow type. So I need a different rivetter, then. Marvellous...Firestarter wrote:What sort of link is it - I've got a Whale tool, which has a v-slot, which is fine for the solid-head rivet pins. However some links are hollow-type, and need a driver that pushes from the middle a bit, the whale tool I had did very little for this typemangocrazy wrote:And how much rivetting is necessary to ensure the side plate stays put? I was using a Whale brand rivetting tool and 2.5lb lump hammer to try and peen the soft link over, and it didn't seem to be deforming much. I was getting slightly concerned about damaging the rear sprocket with the violence I was using.

- mangocrazy
- Admin
- Posts: 3944
- Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2008 3:24 pm
- Location: Sheffield, UK
Re: Fitting 16F 44R sprocket combination with 108 link chain
I'm gonna go with the 16/44 for now and see how it is. 15/44 is getting a bit low in the gearing stakes, really. According to Gearing Commander, a 15/44 combination would lower the gearing by 14.5% from standard - which is quite a lot! 16/44 is a more reasonable 7.3% change from standard. (All above with 190/55 rear tyre as opposed to 180/55)blinkey501 wrote:mangocrazy wrote: Have I inadvertently turned my Falco into a Tuono-like wheelie monster? Only one way to find out, I suppose...
Fit a 15 tooth front. This will make things more interesting.
Also this will give you a little more slack so the adjustment is easier.
![]()
I have fitted a 15/42 on the magpie and find this suits the falco nicely.
- Firestarter
- Twisted Firestarter
- Posts: 1429
- Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2007 8:28 am
- Location: Northwich, Cheshire
Re: Fitting 16F 44R sprocket combination with 108 link chain
Or a different link, if you can find one suitable for that chain, that has the solid pins.mangocrazy wrote:I think you may have spotted the flaw in my cunning plan. I was using a Whale tool and the pins are the hollow type. So I need a different rivetter, then. Marvellous...Firestarter wrote:What sort of link is it - I've got a Whale tool, which has a v-slot, which is fine for the solid-head rivet pins. However some links are hollow-type, and need a driver that pushes from the middle a bit, the whale tool I had did very little for this typemangocrazy wrote:And how much rivetting is necessary to ensure the side plate stays put? I was using a Whale brand rivetting tool and 2.5lb lump hammer to try and peen the soft link over, and it didn't seem to be deforming much. I was getting slightly concerned about damaging the rear sprocket with the violence I was using.
Aprilia SL1000 Falco '04 in Black & Red
15:41 is almost the same as 16:44 (0.366 compared with 0.364)
Standard gearing of 16:41 is 0.390 so the 15:41 is a reduction of 6.15% and the 16:44 a reduction of 6.67% from stock.
Some go for 16:43 (0.372) - this is a less aggressive reduction of 4.61%
Standard gearing of 16:41 is 0.390 so the 15:41 is a reduction of 6.15% and the 16:44 a reduction of 6.67% from stock.
Some go for 16:43 (0.372) - this is a less aggressive reduction of 4.61%
“Scientists investigate that which already is. Engineers create that which has never been.”
-- Albert Einstein
-- Albert Einstein
- blinkey501
- World Champion
- Posts: 3495
- Joined: Sun May 29, 2011 6:28 pm
- Location: near doncaster
Realistically. 15/41 is a good mod to the falco. And a front sprocket can be bought for around 15 quid, so cheap too but.......zoidberg wrote:hmm. can anyone provide opinions on either?
I may be doing a gearing change whilst I change chain and sprockets.
Here you go.

http://www.gearingcommander.com/
Tolerance will be our undoing.