Non Starting Issues

Message

GregD-UK · #1 Post by **GregD-UK** » Mon Apr 30, 2007 8:16 pm

Hi all,

Decided to give my falco a fresah coat of paint to go with the new bits + bobs that I have bestowed on her recently. Fitted the tank back on went to start her up, heard the petrol pump pressurise the system, then nothing

No click on the starter switch, no nothing at all. Checked my kill switch was off, silly I know.

Waited 10 mins then hit the button again fired into life after I had checked all the relays and fuses. There was a wire coming off the ecu that had a plastic connecter in a tube affair that connected with two wires that I connected then the diagnostic light came on the dash with "-1" showing just below...strange. Then when I depressed the brake the dash lights came on...what the hell is going on here....

I bet no-one has had this problem before....

Any suggestions please....

Warranty yeah rite!

FlyingKiwi · #2 Post by **FlyingKiwi** » Mon Apr 30, 2007 8:28 pm

hi Greg.
I think you'll find that the wire with a plastic connector is only for diognostics at service time (I think) and should be disconnected. Mine is.
Can't help with the non start though.

falcomunky · #3 Post by **falcomunky** » Mon Apr 30, 2007 9:09 pm

Yup the wire is fer diagnostics and is only connected fer a service check.
Maybe the starting prob was fuel starvation?
Yer had the tank off fer a while I take it? Might take a minute to get enough fuel through fer ignition once the tank is back on?

fastasfcuk · #4 Post by **fastasfcuk** » Mon Apr 30, 2007 10:42 pm

is'nt the 1 you've got showing the fault code whan you;ve got the wires coupled.

Firestarter · #5 Post by **Firestarter** » Tue May 01, 2007 7:34 am

The "-1" is the Throttle Position Sensor (IIRC to do with the factory-set throttle stops at idle), should read zero when the wires are connected. Have a look on www.geocities.com/sl_mille (sorry, can't get exact address at work), there should be a link there about sorting it (if you feel you need to

)

Firestarter · #6 Post by **Firestarter** » Tue May 01, 2007 7:37 am

Oh, and the "-1" TPS shouldn't have had anything to do with non-starting

Possibly the tip-over switch wasn't sat right, and you put it back in properly when you checked fuses/relays etc?

GregD-UK · #7 Post by **GregD-UK** » Tue May 01, 2007 3:59 pm

Hi Guys,

Thankx 4 the comments, I have disconnected the wire now, the non-start is still a worry 4 me thou....When I hit the start button, sometimes nothing happens, not even a click

I know that fuel starvation could of contributed, but, still the coils and electrics should of tried to work one would assume....When I was out the other day, it stalled on me twice, luckily when I was crawling towards a junction, still bad vibs

May need to go to a dyno-tune place to see what electrics isn't working, better to be safe than sorry. Me no want it to stall when I am moving along a twisty road do I

Thankx 4 the help...2 one and all

Warranty yeah rite!

Falcopops · #8 Post by **Falcopops** » Tue May 01, 2007 4:25 pm

could be the starter button.

open it up check the wires, clean it up and douse liberally with WD40.

Falco9 · #9 Post by **Falco9** » Tue May 01, 2007 4:27 pm

Sounds like the now world famous "Kill switch" problem to me

Plenty of WD and prayers seem to be the best solution, either that or a partly broken wire somewhere???

F9

GregD-UK · #10 Post by **GregD-UK** » Tue May 01, 2007 7:34 pm

OK F9,

U think I should strip and clean the kill switch on the handle bar then? There isn't going to be a popping of springs when I take it apart is there

Guess has happened to a few guys then....

Will try that manana cheers.

Warranty yeah rite!

Falco9 · #11 Post by **Falco9** » Tue May 01, 2007 7:43 pm

Never had the problem myself Greg. A life of mollycoddling and never being out in the rain meant my kill switch was probably like new (I always kill the engine with the ignition key as well)

There have been numerous threads on this, I reckon it's probably a fairly easy strip as long as you take your time and do it in the right environment (ie. not over the grate in the road!!)

Once inside any obvious corrosion etc... should be easy to spot I'd have thought.

F9

fastasfcuk · #12 Post by **fastasfcuk** » Tue May 01, 2007 8:44 pm

when i had the same problem the spring inside was pushing open the lid on the switch, i put super glue in the gap and pressed it together i've not had a problem since.but every time there was a gap the engine cut out.