Almost none!
Scooters and maxi scooters everywhere but it seems nobody rides proper bikes.
Nevertheless I did see one very nice example of my bike riding through the streets of Rome ...... yes an old Honda CB400F (actually the one I saw was an F2).
Falcos ..... none
Aprilias ...... only scooters

Guess as we're in the bar we'd better drink to the lamentable state of motorcycling in Italy ..... and to seeing a nice 400/4 buzzing about the roads.