Falco Winter Work

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rick · #61 Post by **rick** » Fri Dec 10, 2010 8:41 pm

yeah makes sense... the foam actually makes contact with the rear of the pipercross so i may take it off tomorrow when I'm running the engine prior to oil change.

Re: sticky throttle... when I released the clamps holding the tbs to their rubber boots their position moved more towards the rear of the bike. Now, we're only talking mm here, but it'll make a big difference re: rubbing on the snorkel. Only thing I can think of is that they weren't seated properly, or the way in which the clamps were tightened was conducive to displacing the tbs slightly towards the front of the bike.

Sure enough, when I re-tightened the clamps and re-installed the rene kit no sticky throttle

Annoyingly the washers under the tank securing screws on the front of the frame fell into the engine compartment somewhere and I can't bloody find them! Really annoying... spent at least 30mins hunting for them. Finally gave up and used some spare washers, hopefully they'll rattle themselves out at some point!

So tomorrow I'm replacing oil, filter (and some washers/bolts) and the clutch jet. I've already found a screwdriver attachment which is a snug fit, once I filed it down a bit :)

rick · #62 Post by **rick** » Sat Dec 11, 2010 12:32 pm

Well this morning went really well!

Changed the oil first... and installed new sight-window washers, new sump plug and washer, new o-ring seal on filler cap and of course a new filter (primed beforehand). I ran the engine and checked for leaks and so far all is good. I also removed the filter from the oil tank and it was clean as a whistle. I tried to remove as much oil as possible, but as usual you can't quite get all of it out! I only ended up putting 3L but will check the oil level tomorrow using the usual procedure. I've opted for the same grade 10W40 but decided to use MOTUL this time.

Then came the clutch jet... last night I found a small bit that fitted quite well but would need some filing. This morning I offered it up and it wouldn't fit... the diameter of the bit was too large so I found another screwdriver to mod using my angle grinder (any excuse to get that toy out!).

The removal and refitting literally took 2mins... the modding of the screwdriver took 10mins... so all-in-all it went really well... just lucky I guess. The one I removed was marked with "75".

So tomorrow is top-up oil, check for more leaks and the replace coolant before removing forks. What coolant do y'all recommend? I am heading to Halfrauds later so will see what they have. I recall reading somewhere it would be nitrite free, and also silicate free...

rick · #63 Post by **rick** » Sat Dec 11, 2010 1:06 pm

how about this coolant... seems expensive though!

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_229902

Aladinsaneuk · #64 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Sat Dec 11, 2010 1:14 pm

http://home.comcast.net/~sl_mille/coolant.html

I would go by what

rick · #65 Post by **rick** » Sat Dec 11, 2010 1:17 pm

the halfrauds one is silicate free and is premixed which is attractive since i canne be bothered to source/make distilled water!

Aladinsaneuk · #66 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Sat Dec 11, 2010 1:39 pm

i reckon a wander around lidl or aldi may be a good idea - i think i saw some in one of those two recently.... and a bloody sight cheaper as well!

rick · #67 Post by **rick** » Sat Dec 11, 2010 1:42 pm

Will have a peruse later!

rick · #68 Post by **rick** » Sat Dec 11, 2010 7:50 pm

Right I am armed with 2L of coolant (silicate free suitable for al engines) and 2.5L of deionised water so good to go for tomorrow.

Reading up a bit on forks tonight ready for oil and seal change tomorrow. Whats all this about regarding the number of rings showing at the top of the leg above the yoke? It seems standard is three but race track is 4... whats the difference? Has anyone gone futher than 4?

So my plan is remove both fork legs and work on one at a time, nice and methodical. Noting all current settins before dismantling and measuring amount of oil in each (apparently should be 455-460ml per leg). Then clean, put all the gubbins back inside and fill with oil with a measuring jug.

rick · #69 Post by **rick** » Sat Dec 11, 2010 8:42 pm

Ok just read I may need some "special" tools... damn you aprilia

Willopotomas · #70 Post by **Willopotomas** » Sat Dec 11, 2010 8:57 pm

Good luck with the USD's.. They're a bastard!

rick · #71 Post by **rick** » Sat Dec 11, 2010 8:59 pm

the more i read the more i'm tempted to just drain from the compression bolt and refill with fresh oil... after all the seals arent leaking

oh as well as maybe dropping them one ring

#72 Post by **mangocrazy** » Sun Dec 12, 2010 12:33 am

You do need special tools, unfortunately, to compress the fork spring while the fork cap is removed from the rod. Either that or four arms, two of which must be exceptionally strong and muscley...

I did have a link to one somewhere (I know Race-Tech make one), but they're not particularly cheap. It could however be copied by an unscrupulous person with welding and fabrication facilities...

There are two versions, about halfway down the page. Plus lots of other suspension-related tools and paraphernalia to make your life complete:

http://www.racetech.com/page.aspx?id=70&menuid=57

Willopotomas · #73 Post by **Willopotomas** » Sun Dec 12, 2010 11:27 am

hmm.. Anyone got an old fork that could be donated to make such a tool?? Or even have the tool so it can be copied?

#74 Post by **mangocrazy** » Sun Dec 12, 2010 11:47 am

I was thinking that. It doesn't look too complex for someone who's handy at fabricating. A larger, more detailed picture would be a help.

And whaddya know - I've just found one, courtesy of an earlier post from MartDude...

https://www.ridersite.com/viewtopic.ph ... c&start=16

Willopotomas · #75 Post by **Willopotomas** » Sun Dec 12, 2010 12:16 pm

Looks fairly simple to me. May even have some bits already lying around at work to get one made.. Now all I need is the fork.