Cold starting

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fatboy · #31 Post by **fatboy** » Sun Dec 01, 2013 7:00 pm

If you go for the 'open' zorst option, then an open air filter is the ideal co mpanion. Was nicely surprised when I junked the stock air filter for a K&N.
Oh, then there's the Eprom chip, Im running a Forza, very nice, spot on mapping, a massive improvement for £45

Firestarter · #32 Post by **Firestarter** » Sun Dec 01, 2013 9:00 pm

stumblebum76 wrote:I've got the knack of starting it now, give it a turn over without any fast idle and then turn it over on full fast idle and it starts every time! Had a lovely ride out in the meons and a stop at the cafe, proper job!

Might just be me, but I don't like stuff like that. When every other Falco starts "normally", but yours needs something different, I'd be asking why. Might be nothing, but I'd have a word with Griff or someone and see if they can explain it, make sure it's not a symptom of something more serious

falcomunky · #33 Post by **falcomunky** » Sun Dec 01, 2013 9:29 pm

Agreed.
Are you pushing the starter button 'through' the actual ignition? (That make sense?)
They take a little more firing up than an IL4! lol

My usual firing-up-on-a-cold-morning-routine is: Sit on and lean her over to the right for a few seconds (my theory being to shift the oil back from the left to the right side of the engine due to being on her sidestand all night).
Turn the key and switch her on.
Then I pull the clutch lever in a few times (my theory being to free up potentially stuck plates).
I then apply full fast-idle and then back it off a smidge, and thumb the starter button constantly til she fires.
I've found that mine doesn't enjoy damp air and might take maybe 5 seconds to actually fire up.
Oh and I just use the standard NGK plugs and change em every year come MOT time. Never had any problems with them.

EDIT. I had a set of hi-level Renegades (I reckon someone on ere might still have em...

)
They are nice BUT I found it really difficult to hang the cans! The ones I had didn't come with any brackets or spacers so I had to improvise and hang them from bolts in the subframe, just forward of the grab rail mounts.
Had to Dremel the fairing underside to do it!
As for Venoms: I now have them on (oval stainless) and they are nice. Good quality for a mid-range can and mine have removable baffles. Sound really nice too. Not too loud, but rumble-y enough to rattle windows...

I shortened mine by an inch or four, just in case...

stumblebum76 · #34 Post by **stumblebum76** » Mon Dec 02, 2013 2:52 pm

It's behaving itself and starting normally now, my guess is it just wasn't being used while it was up for sale causing the slow starting, it'll be better once I've given the battery a decent charge.

D-Rider · #35 Post by **D-Rider** » Mon Dec 02, 2013 3:14 pm

Excellent

blinkey501 · #36 Post by **blinkey501** » Mon Dec 02, 2013 5:05 pm

stumblebum76 wrote:It's behaving itself and starting normally now, my guess is it just wasn't being used while it was up for sale causing the slow starting, it'll be better once I've given the battery a decent charge.

Oh yes, and btw. Run the bike on super unleaded. I will let you use the search function to find out why.

Aladinsaneuk · #37 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Mon Dec 02, 2013 6:45 pm

oh high mount renegades are actually very easy to mount -= you just need to know one secret......

(Take the rear cowl off - there is already a mounting point on each side of the rear sub frame - and with some judicious vice and hammer time, you do not need to dremel anything....)

stumblebum76 · #38 Post by **stumblebum76** » Mon Dec 02, 2013 7:34 pm

blinkey501 wrote:
stumblebum76 wrote:It's behaving itself and starting normally now, my guess is it just wasn't being used while it was up for sale causing the slow starting, it'll be better once I've given the battery a decent charge.
Oh yes, and btw. Run the bike on super unleaded. I will let you use the search function to find out why.

Done some searching.....great, another thing to worry about. I filled the bike up with normal unleaded when I got it, I've now done 150 miles so should be needing to fill up again shortly, I'll be using super unleaded from now on then!

Aladinsaneuk · #39 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Mon Dec 02, 2013 7:56 pm

Or full fat kitten slapping baby seal killing four star

D-Rider · #40 Post by **D-Rider** » Mon Dec 02, 2013 9:38 pm

Aladinsaneuk wrote:oh high mount renegades are actually very easy to mount -= you just need to know one secret......

..... Oh dear, I knew it would get out sooner or later ..... Aladinsaneuk's shameful exhaustophilia sagas

I thought he'd learned his lesson following that episode with a really hot one ...

Aladinsaneuk · #41 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Tue Dec 03, 2013 6:37 am

Nod

The savlon helped

stumblebum76 · #42 Post by **stumblebum76** » Tue Dec 03, 2013 4:49 pm

I'm going to do the plugs and air filter at the weekend, is it as simple as lifting the tank, putting it on it's stand and removing the air box or does the tank have to come off? Is there anything I should be aware of while removing the air box or is it really as easy as it looks! (you never know with these bikes!)

D-Rider · #43 Post by **D-Rider** » Tue Dec 03, 2013 5:00 pm

This is where you may well discover the effects of ethanol .....

Depending on how much your tank has been expanded by that evil stuff you may find it easy or difficult to raise the tank.

Undo the machine screws at the front of the tank that hold it to the frame. It should then pivot up (best to take the rider's seat off first so that it's not pushing against it).
Ethanol may have done its worst and you might find the brackets don't clear the top yoke. If so you might need to slacken off the rear tank mount (or even completely undo it). If you do that, be careful you don't drop the tank or crush any of the hoses underneath it - or displace the tip-over switch behind it.

Then remove the air box .... lots of screws - don't drop them

Plugs can be a bit difficult to reach - particularly the front ones. A knuckle joint can help.
Make sure you remove all grit from around the plugs before removing - especially around the front ones.

fatboy · #44 Post by **fatboy** » Tue Dec 03, 2013 7:11 pm

You may struggle to get the front lower plug out if you dont have the correct tool, a box spanner thing with a chunk of 13mm hex bar on the top of the said box spanner.
That or the correct size plug socket driven by a 'wobble' bar

D-Rider · #45 Post by **D-Rider** » Tue Dec 03, 2013 7:55 pm

fatboy wrote:You may struggle to get the front lower plug out if you dont have the correct tool, a box spanner thing with a chunk of 13mm hex bar on the top of the said box spanner.
That or the correct size plug socket driven by a 'wobble' bar

Or the plug spanner from the tool kit with an open-ender on its hex end - a little slower but works fine