Electical Issues part trois

[Falco9]

Have you thought of getting the local vicar in to do an exorcism?

It had crossed my mind

I've now swapped over the diode but I don't understand the workshop manual instructions on how to test it The replacement seems to be working fine though. I did this swap before taking the battery readings below

However I did re-connect the neutral light switch and the bike now starts whether the clutch is pulled in or not, so thats one little issue resolved.

I checked the battery voltage and then started the bike and got the readings below. I'd be grateful if one of you could advise as to whether these are acceptable or not. The battery has been on the Optimate all night

Battery before starting 13.1v
Battery cranking (no cold start) 10.9v
Battery with engine running 13.5v
Battery after first start but engine off 12.6v

Good? Bad?

The bike started straight away and has continued to do so , when I cranked the engine over with no cold start it turned the motor over easily with no signs of straining at all

F9

[anzacinexile]

Voltages are pretty good, I'm guessing it was a cold engine when you cranked????

The fact that you can start the bike now with the clutch out tells me you had a duff diode. Whether that's causing your issues only time will tell..

As for testing the diodes, you need to make sure your multimeter can check diodes - look for a arrow with a bar across he top on the dial. you cant check 'em without this function because the voltage used when checking resistance ain't enough to switch a diode on.

If you have, look at the manual for the pin outs but as the symbol would indicate, a diode is like a one way valve. Current will flow from the base of the diode (positive to the bottom of the triangle) but it will be blocked the other way round (positive to the bar). With your meter set on diode check (if you have it) simply put the leads across the diode and one way will read zero and the other way should read about 0.6. The 0.6 refers to the voltage drop across the device and for a silicon device, it should be about 0.6v. Obviously if your checking across 2 diodes in series, you will see 1.2.

Most diodes fail short so a duff one will read in either direction.

Hope that makes sense

[Falco9]

Voltages are pretty good, I'm guessing it was a cold engine when you cranked????

The fact that you can start the bike now with the clutch out tells me you had a duff diode. Whether that's causing your issues only time will tell..

Yup the engine was clap cold, but the diode issue isn't as clear cut. I should have said that I swapped the diode pack over (for one I'd bought off a mille) first but the bike still wouldn't start with the clutch engaged. The relay next to the diode pack engaged with a dull click but nothing happened (I think this is the fuel pump relay?) However as soon as I reconnected the neutral light switch she started straight away

I don't know is this complicates or clarifies the problem, at the moment all is well (again) but its still not the clear cut "its now fixed" solution I'm looking for................

I'm now wondering whether to purchase a high quality battery such as the Dynavolt one Howard has, maybe the higher ampage will prevent the relay from dropping out????? or is this just a waste

I'm officially clutching at straws

F9

[anzacinexile]

I don't have any issues with any good quality "normal" batteries AND a good quality battery tender

[HowardQ]

Have you thought of getting the local vicar in to do an exorcism?

It had crossed my mind

I've now swapped over the diode but I don't understand the workshop manual instructions on how to test it The replacement seems to be working fine though. I did this swap before taking the battery readings below

However I did re-connect the neutral light switch and the bike now starts whether the clutch is pulled in or not, so thats one little issue resolved.

I checked the battery voltage and then started the bike and got the readings below. I'd be grate

ful if one of you could advise as to whether these are acceptable or not. The battery has been on the Optimate all night

Battery before starting 13.1v
Battery cranking (no cold start) 10.9v
Battery with engine running 13.5v
Battery after first start but engine off 12.6v

Good? Bad?

The bike started straight away and has continued to do so , when I cranked the engine over with no cold start it turned the motor over easily with no signs of straining at all
F9

Just checked mine Rich.
Mine has been stood since last Wednesday and not on charge.

Battery before starting 12.1v
Battery cranking (cold start) 11.7v
Battery with engine running 13.6v
Battery after first start but engine off not done

Not sure what the readings should be, I seem to remember my old Yuasa went down to about 9.5 v

Looks like you're making progress though.

[HowardQ]

PM sent re Dynavolt battery Rich.