halogen indicator bulbs

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old git
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#16 Post by old git » Sat Jul 10, 2010 5:40 am

OK, bare with me, been doing some more digging & think I have got this right.
LED's only draw small wattage, so existing set-up goes bonkers & needs adapting with resitors or whatever, yes?
So, if I have found a way of fitting 10w halogen bulbs into existing indicator bodies i should get:
no major wiring / resistor mods?
same wattage on the system, so no problems - yes?
Halogen bulbs with brighter light for indicators!
Therefore, am athinkin remove bulb holders in indicators,
solder in mini G4 lamp holders,
insert G4 10W
Job done.
Seems simple enough, would cost me £10 + time
Can anyone see the obvious mistake I must be making????

Ta
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Aladinsaneuk
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#17 Post by Aladinsaneuk » Sat Jul 10, 2010 6:11 am

As someone has already said, the heat they put out may well cause a lot of problems....


Let's face it, you wouldn't go to a nurse to get good advice on a problem with a Falco - you'd choose an Engineer or a mechanic...


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old git
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#18 Post by old git » Sat Jul 10, 2010 6:23 am

sorry, forgot to post that bit, did a bench test last night with a 20w bulb, didn;t seem to do anything to the spare indicator cover i layed it in.
Did 50 flashes with it in direct contact with the amber plastic, not a mark.
Have it back on test now with the bulb on constant while I am on here, don't seem to have had any detrimental effect.
warm, yes but no burning / melting while it is on the bench stationary & suspect that it should have cooling from air movement etc. when out on the bike.
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old git
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#19 Post by old git » Sat Jul 10, 2010 6:26 am

OK, now it has started to smell, can see the slightest mark where the plastic cover is deforming at the tip of the bulb, but thats constant light for a couple of mins from 20w not intermitant flashing from 10w.
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Hishy
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#20 Post by Hishy » Sat Jul 10, 2010 6:49 am

another thing to be wary of is that the wiring can handle the increased current draw, make doubly sure your loom doesn't get warm.

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old git
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#21 Post by old git » Sat Jul 10, 2010 9:05 am

OK Hishy this is the sort of thing I am looking for.
If I am replacing 10w bulb with 10w halogen, is there extra current draw on a halogen bulb vs a standard?
In my simple ( & you know I am from the other week!) logic, there would be same current since it is same watts, but am happy to learn.
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#22 Post by anzacinexile » Sat Jul 10, 2010 1:41 pm

Couple of things........

A 10W halogen (if there is such a thing) will get MUCH hotter than a 10W filament bulb and the current draw from anything rated at 10W will be the same at the same voltage - bulb, heated grips, whatever

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#23 Post by Hishy » Sat Jul 10, 2010 1:57 pm

10w is 10w, so the current draw in theory would be the same, however a 10w halogen would be considerably brighter than a 10w incandecant lamp if you were to run 20w then that will certainly increase the current drawn, the difference between halogens and a normal incandescant lamp is temperature, if my memory of physics is correct then your avarage halogen lamp operates at around 250 degrees, the different gasses contained in the halogen and the type of glass used is what keeps the external temperature lower, but not as cool as a standard lamp.

So you would probably be fine wattage wise but the temperature in the indicator would be a bit of a concern for me.

The other thing with halogens is that they supposedly last longer than a normal bulb from experiance they dont and are nothing but hassle, and they burn out transformers or the wiring (which has and insulating sleeve) readily to the point as a company we no longer install them on new lifts and have gone back to using compact florescants.

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#24 Post by HowardQ » Sat Jul 10, 2010 9:22 pm

Would agree with all that Hishy and others have said about the heat and the wiring.
But I'm thinking that you might just get away with a 10W halogen as it is not on constantly and only flashes, so the heat may not build up too much. The early Falcos don't even have hazards that could be left on for a long time and I think it might be OK resistor wise. :smt017 :smt017
Could try just fitting the spare one before you do the others and see how it goes I suppose.
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anzacinexile
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#25 Post by anzacinexile » Sun Jul 11, 2010 12:07 pm

HowardQ wrote:.............. and I think it might be OK resistor wise. :smt017 :smt017
No resistor needed. A 10W pull will keep 'em flashing at the correct rate

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