Falco running on one cylinder

Message

Dalemac · #16 Post by **Dalemac** » Wed Jun 02, 2010 10:54 pm

IF you do have to whip the spark plugs, the process is as follows:

1. Remove the two bolts holding the front of the tank in place. (8mm). lift the tank and find a suitable propping up tool.
2. Remove the 7 bolts holding the airbox cover on. (7mm), remove the airbox cover and the air filter.
3. remove the six 4mm allen bolts around the throttle bodies. Remove the airbox.
4. Remove the rubbery plastic piece connecting the front air intakes.

Now you should have acces to all 4 spark plugs. asdsembly is the reverse of the instructions above (weirdly enough ;))

Dale

Martin · #17 Post by **Martin** » Wed Jun 02, 2010 10:59 pm

This looks like what's under the rider seat which I've just uncovered (again). Will post a pic of what I'm seeing.

D-Rider · #18 Post by **D-Rider** » Wed Jun 02, 2010 11:02 pm

TBH I don't think that Diag codes are going to show anything - I'm 99% sure it's just flooding and once it chimes in it's fine until the next time you get a dodgy start up.

Martin · #19 Post by **Martin** » Wed Jun 02, 2010 11:21 pm

I tend to agree with you D-Rider re being flooded but how do I clear without removing the plugs? Take it for a run on one cyclinder and hope for the best???

Here's the promised pic of underseat cable layout - I've pulled the loose ones out a bit more:

Got the hang of this pic thing thanks Kwackerz

D-Rider · #20 Post by **D-Rider** » Wed Jun 02, 2010 11:45 pm

Well the process to start a completely flooded motor (both pots) is to hold the throttle wide open and crank it - very quickly it clears and fires up.
I've shut the engine down and fired up again in this way when I've had this single pot running and sometimes it's done the trick - though not as reliably as when flooded on both.

Martin · #21 Post by **Martin** » Wed Jun 02, 2010 11:51 pm

Well, have sussed out the photos / wiring etc (and concede that I've maybe had one too many sherbets) and the Diagnostics Code is "1".

Can't find out what that actually means?

Falcopops · #22 Post by **Falcopops** » Thu Jun 03, 2010 12:04 am

Diag 1 only menas your Throttle position sensor is a bit off in the fully closed position. Notyhing to worry about and I'd be happy to ignore this. Certaily for the moment and indefinitely really.

The pic of the wires under the seat confuded me a bit until I figures the wires with the choc blocks on must be the derestric wire snip. I'd tape them up well just to be sure they don't short out.

Clearly you've figures the others are the diag wires.

I had this problem once and only once, it was a loose chip in ECU, now if the ECU hasn't been opened (the lables are not split) then that's unlikely to be the case.

I'd imagine that the pot that isn't firing will have very fouled plugs by now and If your taking them out spend the money (I know that'll be hard for a fellow Scot) on Irridium plugs and then you can forget about them 'till Nessie is found.

Plug caps and leads have been known to work loose as have plugs, but that makes an almighty racket, trust me, I know!

You could try pulling the low tension wires off the coils to find the pot that isn't running.

Good luck and be sure to tell us the cause and solution.

Martin · #23 Post by **Martin** » Thu Jun 03, 2010 12:19 am

Know what you mean about tight Scots but I'm from Ullapool and we're pretty generous on the west coast - we only sell our aunties

Yep, a new set of plugs is worth it if it comes down to it.

Thanks y'all for the advice. I'll review in the cold light of Bran Flakes and hopefully get it together

The bike rocks otherwise BTW yet methinks a PC3 is in order - the Tiller had a PC2 on board which I got reset on a dyno near Cromarty ( http://www.hmdtuning.co.uk/ ) and on the basis of those results I reckon there's a lot of throttle response and a few more BHP to be squeezed out yet....

Pleased to be dissuaded otherwise.. (can I remap the OEM chip with a laptop and cable???)

Martin

D-Rider · #24 Post by **D-Rider** » Thu Jun 03, 2010 12:58 am

Mine has a set of Iridium plugs fitted only a couple of months back - and they were tightened properly (one of the previous set had worked loose - I'm highly confident these are OK.

back_marker · #25 Post by **back_marker** » Thu Jun 03, 2010 6:11 am

Samray wrote:Sorry back_marker, but I did .

So did I after I'd shit meself. It proved I had a spark on both barrels though

Falcopops · #26 Post by **Falcopops** » Thu Jun 03, 2010 7:57 am

Martin wrote:can I remap the OEM chip with a laptop and cable???

Nope, need to change the chip

Martin · #27 Post by **Martin** » Thu Jun 03, 2010 8:44 pm

...

Ran the engine today and lifted the tank and it's the front cylinder that ain't firing. Pulled the HT leads off the rear plugs just to be sure.

IT WOULD HAVE TO BE THE FRONT ONE!!!

How on earth do I get to the plugs??? Looks like I'll need to remove the airbox and even then it looks awfully tight.

Aaargh!!

anzacinexile · #28 Post by **anzacinexile** » Thu Jun 03, 2010 8:48 pm

Yes - lift the airbox - piece of p**s .

It isn't do bad for space but a 3/8 drive if you have them makes life easier. The tool in the kit is OK if you haven't (1/2 drive stuff is a bit big)

Martin · #29 Post by **Martin** » Wed Jun 09, 2010 10:06 pm

Finally, got around to whipping the airbox off and removing the front cylinder plugs. Thanks for the advice all and yes, it was easy.

And am I glad I did! Let's just say the plugs were due for renewal and any doubts I had about being excessive in ordering 4 irridium plugs were rapidly dispelled! Quite a bit of grit also lying in the plug socket so hopefully I managed to clear it all out before lifting the plugs out...

Now all I need is the plugs from Evil-bay to arrive (4 x NGK iiridium for £26 for postage which is pretty good) and we're set to boogy.