falco wont go

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Firestarter
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#16 Post by Firestarter » Fri Sep 18, 2009 9:41 am

Surely you want it to engage during starting, and disengage after the engine has started? So if it's "failed to disengage", the starter should be turning and cranking the engine?

And don't call me Shirley... :smt003
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#17 Post by D-Rider » Fri Sep 18, 2009 10:29 am

But if it is engaged with a stopped motor, as far as I'm aware, it won't be able to whizz up to speed before engaging so won't have enough ooomph (note the technical term).

At least, that's my thinking so far .....
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joecrx
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#18 Post by joecrx » Fri Sep 18, 2009 12:52 pm

put recharged battery back in still the same click , got my battery boster pack from maplins and connected the live strait to the starter and earthed it to the frame bolt , the starter turns just a little bit and stops as if its still engaged , tried rocking the bike in gear to see if it would free but no joy ,

is taking the starter out a big job ? when i had the side pannel of it looked like i would have to remove the water exp tank and some hoses , would this give me acces to the bolts to remove the starter , ?

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ReggieGasket
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#19 Post by ReggieGasket » Sat Sep 19, 2009 8:54 am

Maybe your battery is past its best? I've noticed mine needs a strong charge to get ignition. Charging an old battery up is not enough sometimes. When my battery was a bit low, it would turn the bike over quite well, but it wouldn't start. Batteries don't last that long and are cheap. Sorry, did you say you tried jump leads from a good car battery?

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#20 Post by fastasfcuk » Sat Sep 19, 2009 10:43 am

right then take the starter out and put power to it on the bence to test it.but be 100% sure that what your using to power it up is healthy.hopefully it's the starter or your going to have to start diveing into the engine.with the starter out put it in 6th gear and see if you can spin the back wheel to see if the engine's free.

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#21 Post by D-Rider » Sat Sep 19, 2009 11:53 am

ReggieGasket wrote:Maybe your battery is past its best?
joecrx wrote:i
battery is reading 12.6 volts before i hit the start button and drops to 12 volts
With a non running engine, if you are getting power down to the starter motor, 0.6V dip and 12V available is pretty good - so I think your battery is probably not the issue .... or if it is past it's best there are other issues too.
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joecrx
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#22 Post by joecrx » Sat Sep 19, 2009 4:01 pm

how easy is it to take the starter out ? do i have to remove the rads ?

i can see 2 bolts pasimg through the starter and 2 holding it down

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#23 Post by fastasfcuk » Sat Sep 19, 2009 7:10 pm

first disconect your battery, then remove the live from the back of the starter. undo the two allen studs at the back of the starter and pull out the starter. you should get it passed the rad without removing it.it will help to remove the cooling fan to give you more room.
hope that helps.
oh yeh do'nt remove the long 8 mm bolts.

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joecrx
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#24 Post by joecrx » Sat Sep 19, 2009 10:32 pm

cheers fastasfcuk ,,going to spend some time on it tommorow , starting to get bike withdrawl , :smt010 will take pics and keep you updated

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Chabby
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#25 Post by Chabby » Sun Sep 20, 2009 9:54 am

Before you pull the starter take a plug out of each cylinder and try to turn it over again so you can rule out the engine compression being the culprit.
If it turns over ok it'll be a goosed battery or poor connection (earth strap,battery + and -, lead to starter from solenoid etc.)
Clean all connections and ensure they're tight on replacing.

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#26 Post by Samray » Sun Sep 20, 2009 10:50 am

Those connections would be my first check too.

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#27 Post by fastasfcuk » Sun Sep 20, 2009 12:54 pm

yes i agree,but he's had a booster pack coupled direct to the starter and earthed to the frame so that bypasses the battery and all connections.so as long as the booster pack is working ok and the engine is free the problem's got to be with with the starter. but yes turn it over first with the plugs out to see if it turns over.

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joecrx
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#28 Post by joecrx » Sun Sep 20, 2009 1:41 pm

and the prize goes to the gr33k , :smt003 looks like the motor stoped in TDC so i took out the spark plug at the rear cylnder and bridged the relay with a screw driver and it started righ up :smt001 i replace the sparkplug and done the same started fine :smt001 i should be getting the new 100 amp relay this week ,
im suprised me rocking and trying to bump the bike did not move those dust pan pistons , all the same good news ,

thanks for your help guys , my round at the bar :smt004

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#29 Post by D-Rider » Mon Sep 21, 2009 10:11 am

joecrx wrote:and the prize goes to the gr33k , :smt003 looks like the motor stoped in TDC
OY - I want my share of the prize ..... that's what I said in my first post !
“Scientists investigate that which already is. Engineers create that which has never been.”
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joecrx
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#30 Post by joecrx » Mon Sep 21, 2009 12:31 pm

photo finish the gr33k.....09-17-2009, 01:45 PM
d-rider.....Mon Sep 21, 2009 10:11 am

beat bay the bell d=rider :smt001

remember its the talikg part not the winning tha tcounts :smt001 :smt001

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