You state the relay is fine but how do you know?
If it is fine and the switch is too then it has to be wiring. You must have a short.
Highbeam
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I have 3 relays, one for the low beam, one for the high beam and one for the fan.Fausto wrote:You state the relay is fine but how do you know?
If it is fine and the switch is too then it has to be wiring. You must have a short.
The low beam works, when I take the low beam relay out it stops working. When I replace it with the high beam relay it works again. Therefore I've assumed the relays are ok.
Is my logic correct?
The posibility of having a short is looking more and more likely. How do I find out if I have? I have a voltmeter but don't have a clue how to use it.
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back_marker
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From looking at the wiring diagram...
1. If the relay is clicking when you operate either of the switches then it is operating. If that same relay works correctly on the low beam socket then the relay is fine. This rules out the whole of the switching and relay circuit.
2. If the dipped beam works correctly then it is not a fuse as the actual feed to the bulbs is branched between the main and dipped beam relays.
3. The next step (if you can) is to test the Orange/Light Blue wire going into the main beam relay with a multimeter and a known good earth (neg battery terminal is probably simplest) - you should get battery voltage, ie 12v give or take. If you don't have a multimeter or don't understnad how to test this, it's not the end of the world, just skip this step and rule everything else out first.
4. Assuming you have battery voltage going to the relay, check all four connections on the connector that goes onto the relay. If any are loose, corroded (white or green dusty looking stuff) or damaged that may well be the problem).
5. If all is well at that connection then the only other connector in the circuit is around the back of the headlight unit somewhere. Carry out the same checks.
If everything still looks good then then the only thing really left is to check the integrity of the white/black wire which runs from the relay to that connector and then on to the bulbs themselves. Again, this is best done with a multimeter.
Hopefully this is of some use to you. Apologies if I have dumbed some of it down a bit but I don't know how good your understanding of electrics is.
If you have any more questions just let me know and I will try to help as best I can. As for your request for a vehicle electrician, I am quite happy to have a look for you but I may be a bit far away (Andover area) and I am away for the next week or so.
1. If the relay is clicking when you operate either of the switches then it is operating. If that same relay works correctly on the low beam socket then the relay is fine. This rules out the whole of the switching and relay circuit.
2. If the dipped beam works correctly then it is not a fuse as the actual feed to the bulbs is branched between the main and dipped beam relays.
3. The next step (if you can) is to test the Orange/Light Blue wire going into the main beam relay with a multimeter and a known good earth (neg battery terminal is probably simplest) - you should get battery voltage, ie 12v give or take. If you don't have a multimeter or don't understnad how to test this, it's not the end of the world, just skip this step and rule everything else out first.
4. Assuming you have battery voltage going to the relay, check all four connections on the connector that goes onto the relay. If any are loose, corroded (white or green dusty looking stuff) or damaged that may well be the problem).
5. If all is well at that connection then the only other connector in the circuit is around the back of the headlight unit somewhere. Carry out the same checks.
If everything still looks good then then the only thing really left is to check the integrity of the white/black wire which runs from the relay to that connector and then on to the bulbs themselves. Again, this is best done with a multimeter.
Hopefully this is of some use to you. Apologies if I have dumbed some of it down a bit but I don't know how good your understanding of electrics is.
If you have any more questions just let me know and I will try to help as best I can. As for your request for a vehicle electrician, I am quite happy to have a look for you but I may be a bit far away (Andover area) and I am away for the next week or so.
Racing is life - anything before or after is just waiting.
- Steve McQueen
- Steve McQueen
Back Marker, your advise is just at my level and your offer of help appreciated. I'm more than happy to get myself across to Andover. Any chance you could let me know when your about and I'll try and sort something.
In the meantime, I'll work my way through your suggested checks.
Thanks again,
Phill
In the meantime, I'll work my way through your suggested checks.
Thanks again,
Phill
Right, lets take this down another level.back_marker wrote:From looking at the wiring diagram...
1. If the relay is clicking when you operate either of the switches then it is operating. If that same relay works correctly on the low beam socket then the relay is fine. This rules out the whole of the switching and relay circuit.
2. If the dipped beam works correctly then it is not a fuse as the actual feed to the bulbs is branched between the main and dipped beam relays.
3. The next step (if you can) is to test the Orange/Light Blue wire going into the main beam relay with a multimeter and a known good earth (neg battery terminal is probably simplest) - you should get battery voltage, ie 12v give or take. If you don't have a multimeter or don't understnad how to test this, it's not the end of the world, just skip this step and rule everything else out first.
4. Assuming you have battery voltage going to the relay, check all four connections on the connector that goes onto the relay. If any are loose, corroded (white or green dusty looking stuff) or damaged that may well be the problem).
5. If all is well at that connection then the only other connector in the circuit is around the back of the headlight unit somewhere. Carry out the same checks.
If everything still looks good then then the only thing really left is to check the integrity of the white/black wire which runs from the relay to that connector and then on to the bulbs themselves. Again, this is best done with a multimeter.
Hopefully this is of some use to you. Apologies if I have dumbed some of it down a bit but I don't know how good your understanding of electrics is.
If you have any more questions just let me know and I will try to help as best I can. As for your request for a vehicle electrician, I am quite happy to have a look for you but I may be a bit far away (Andover area) and I am away for the next week or so.
1. Understood
2. Understood
3. Right, so I put one pointy thing from the multimeter on the negative terminal on the battery and the other on the metal bit where the orange and blue wire goes in to the relay? What do I need the multimeter set to?
4. Checked the connections they seem fine.
5. So do I keep one pointy bit on the negative terminal on the batterry then stick the other in to the various connectors between the relay and the light?
6. Now, I've found a black and white wire going to the connector that goes on to the back of the bulb. I can't find one coming out of the relay, theres just a black one there.
Finally, where did you get a colour wiring diagram from, the one on the other Aprilia site seems to be black and white.
Thanks,
Phill
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back_marker
- SuperSport Racer
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- Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2007 4:30 pm
- Location: Deepest, darkest Wiltshire
Answers:
3. The multimeter should be set to volts DC which is usually a v with a straight line and a broken line underneath it (as opposed to a wiggly line for AC). Depending on your meter you may also have to set the range - ie on mine you can set it to 2v, 20v or 200v - you want the one which is nearest above 12v (which in my case would be 20v).
5. Yes.
6. The relay should have four wires coming from it:
A white one which is the feed to energise the relay - you can check this but from your symptoms you have a feed there
A blue one which is the earth for that same feed - again you could check continuity between it and the battery neg but symptoms say it will be there.
An orange/light blue one which is the main feed from the battery, which goes through the relay to the lights. Check this to ensure that the sparks are getting to the relay. It splits off from the same feed which goes to the dipped beam so it is unlikely that there is a problem with it.
A White/black wire which takes your feed from the relay directly to you main beam. Check it coming out of the relay if you can (the relay will need to be plugged in to get this feed but you should be able to get a probe into the back of the connection or else ease the relay out so that it is still connected and energised but you have a gap to get the probe onto the terminal.
If all of these are good then keep following that last wire to the headlight, checking at any connections along the way. If you get to a point where there is no voltage indicated and you think there should be, that is the time to check back along that stretch of wire for a break.
If you think you have found a dodgy piece of wire it may be possible to temporarily substitute it with a spare piece of wire to double check your diagnosis before making a proper repair.
I don't have a colour diagram but the black and white ones have a key which relates to the little letters on each wire. If you have the Aprilia service Manual download the best diagram can be found on page 6-27 and the list of colours with their corresponding letters is on page 6-51
If you are still non the wiser I am PMing you with my contact details.
3. The multimeter should be set to volts DC which is usually a v with a straight line and a broken line underneath it (as opposed to a wiggly line for AC). Depending on your meter you may also have to set the range - ie on mine you can set it to 2v, 20v or 200v - you want the one which is nearest above 12v (which in my case would be 20v).
5. Yes.
6. The relay should have four wires coming from it:
A white one which is the feed to energise the relay - you can check this but from your symptoms you have a feed there
A blue one which is the earth for that same feed - again you could check continuity between it and the battery neg but symptoms say it will be there.
An orange/light blue one which is the main feed from the battery, which goes through the relay to the lights. Check this to ensure that the sparks are getting to the relay. It splits off from the same feed which goes to the dipped beam so it is unlikely that there is a problem with it.
A White/black wire which takes your feed from the relay directly to you main beam. Check it coming out of the relay if you can (the relay will need to be plugged in to get this feed but you should be able to get a probe into the back of the connection or else ease the relay out so that it is still connected and energised but you have a gap to get the probe onto the terminal.
If all of these are good then keep following that last wire to the headlight, checking at any connections along the way. If you get to a point where there is no voltage indicated and you think there should be, that is the time to check back along that stretch of wire for a break.
If you think you have found a dodgy piece of wire it may be possible to temporarily substitute it with a spare piece of wire to double check your diagnosis before making a proper repair.
I don't have a colour diagram but the black and white ones have a key which relates to the little letters on each wire. If you have the Aprilia service Manual download the best diagram can be found on page 6-27 and the list of colours with their corresponding letters is on page 6-51
If you are still non the wiser I am PMing you with my contact details.
Racing is life - anything before or after is just waiting.
- Steve McQueen
- Steve McQueen