Welcome BigE,
Not much to add on the clutch slip issue. In 30K full or semi synth, I've never had the problem myself even though I also have a 'tooned' quick early bike. Don't give it enough welly maybe.....
Sounds like Tweaker's tip is the way to go. Certainly it'll give you the chance to have a look at things.
Hello...and clutch question
Moderators: Aladinsaneuk, MartDude, D-Rider, Moderators
Hi BigE
Yes you can strip and replace the clutch without draining the oil. Just do it on the sidestand and it's fine. I did it myself about 3 months ago.
I've know uprated clutches like the barnett have had good reviews, but to be honest my standard one lasted for nearly 30,000 miles which is quite long enough really and is much cheaper to. I think the going rate for a barnett clutch is around £130-150 and the standard Aprilia one from a dealer (friction plates and springs, no steels they were fine) cost me around £70.
Another thing to try if no-one else has mentioned it. Take the clutch apart and have a look at the steel plates. If they are mostly shiny but have one or two "burnt" areas on them they may be out of shape. Mine did the same around 15,000 miles and i stoned them flat to take off the high areas and even out the thickness, then simply cleaned and refitted. And it nearly doubled the life of the clutch. I think the high spots happen cos the steels warp in the high temperatures that can happen, and once they warp the friction plates only get to "bite" on a smaller portion of the steel plates hence the slip.
For those without engineering knowledge and what a stone is (no. not the ones down the bottom of the garden). They come in different shapes and grades of courseness, but a chocolate bar sized stone is what i'm on about. And it's just a bar of grinding particles bonded together, just like a ginding wheel for instance and are far better and finer for tickling up little high spots than a file. Or for the diy approach just wrap some fine emery paper round a file and use that (it's nearly as good)
Hope this might help
Ben
Yes you can strip and replace the clutch without draining the oil. Just do it on the sidestand and it's fine. I did it myself about 3 months ago.
I've know uprated clutches like the barnett have had good reviews, but to be honest my standard one lasted for nearly 30,000 miles which is quite long enough really and is much cheaper to. I think the going rate for a barnett clutch is around £130-150 and the standard Aprilia one from a dealer (friction plates and springs, no steels they were fine) cost me around £70.
Another thing to try if no-one else has mentioned it. Take the clutch apart and have a look at the steel plates. If they are mostly shiny but have one or two "burnt" areas on them they may be out of shape. Mine did the same around 15,000 miles and i stoned them flat to take off the high areas and even out the thickness, then simply cleaned and refitted. And it nearly doubled the life of the clutch. I think the high spots happen cos the steels warp in the high temperatures that can happen, and once they warp the friction plates only get to "bite" on a smaller portion of the steel plates hence the slip.
For those without engineering knowledge and what a stone is (no. not the ones down the bottom of the garden). They come in different shapes and grades of courseness, but a chocolate bar sized stone is what i'm on about. And it's just a bar of grinding particles bonded together, just like a ginding wheel for instance and are far better and finer for tickling up little high spots than a file. Or for the diy approach just wrap some fine emery paper round a file and use that (it's nearly as good)
Hope this might help
Ben
-
Tweaker
- Clubman Racer
- Posts: 372
- Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 8:10 pm
- Location: Huddersfield
- Main bike: BMW R1250RS
If you're going for the clutch strip - just a couple of pointers:
1. When removing the clutch cover, lift it gently way as there is a rubber diaphragm behind it which can tear if you're a bit ham fisted. (There will also be a dribble of oil, but that's all, so don't worry).
2. take some pics as you dismantle (or lay everything out carefully) and ensure everything goes back EXACTLY the way it came out.
3. Wash the plates THOUROUGHLY in parafin or petrol after roughing them to remove any traces of grit.
OK, that's 3 pointers then - but it's still a straightforward job!
1. When removing the clutch cover, lift it gently way as there is a rubber diaphragm behind it which can tear if you're a bit ham fisted. (There will also be a dribble of oil, but that's all, so don't worry).
2. take some pics as you dismantle (or lay everything out carefully) and ensure everything goes back EXACTLY the way it came out.
3. Wash the plates THOUROUGHLY in parafin or petrol after roughing them to remove any traces of grit.
OK, that's 3 pointers then - but it's still a straightforward job!
.... and while you've got the clutch apart, it would probably be sensible to renew the bearing - there have been several reports of these failing - so a new one in while you've got it all apart would probably give peace of mind.
Useful info HERE
Useful info HERE