Clutch slave - sprocket cover

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Tonyunn · #16 Post by **Tonyunn** » Thu Oct 17, 2013 9:06 am

I have been using the search facility and because of that I am getting a banjo\bleed nipple for the slave.
Logic suggests that the bleed nipple be attached to the slave, a couple of people have set it at the other end, since most of the air will be in the slave until it is removed I am going to attach it there, would people agree with that last statement.

cheers

#17 Post by **mangocrazy** » Thu Oct 17, 2013 8:57 pm

If you're only going to have one bleed nipple banjo bolt, fit it at the master cylinder (handlebar) end. Why? Air is lighter than hydraulic fluid and will always find its way to the highest point in the circuit. It may take time, but it will.

Fitting one at each end is a doctrine of perfection; you should get every last little bubble-ette of air out with that arrangement.

Aladinsaneuk · #18 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Thu Oct 17, 2013 9:47 pm

ish graham

i personally - and it pains me to admit it - think andy et al were right

fit at the master end

BUT - remove the slave as per the bleeding guide - i do not think you would get all the bubbles out unless you do that

#19 Post by **mangocrazy** » Fri Oct 18, 2013 8:21 am

Aladinsaneuk wrote:i personally - and it pains me to admit it - think andy et al were right

fit at the master end

Harumph - I've been banging on about bleed nipple banjo bolts for as long as I've been on this site and have been using them since the early 90s...

And as I said, bleed nipple banjo bolts at both ends of the line is belt and braces approach. After all, when you fit a BNBB to a brake master cylinder, you still have bleed nipples on the brake calipers, don't you? Why not do the same for the clutch and save yourself the hassle for a few extra quid?

Tonyunn · #20 Post by **Tonyunn** » Fri Oct 18, 2013 12:03 pm

Alad what exactly do you mean remove the cylinder as per the guide.

Aladinsaneuk · #21 Post by **Aladinsaneuk** » Fri Oct 18, 2013 5:23 pm

yes graham - sorry!

and from KZ Mille's guide:

One last thing about bleeding our Mille clutches. Something that is being overlooked is that there is not actually a bleeder on the slave cylinder itself. It is part of the banjo bolt. Automotive clutch slave cylinders have the bleeder located at the top of the slave so that when bled the fluid is flushed through the cylinder. This does not happen with our system so it is possible to bleed and still have a pocket of air within the slave cylinder. It is however easy to remove it.

After bleeding as above and filling the reservoir, remove the three screws securing the slave cylinder. Remove the cylinder and hold it in its normal attitude then tip it slightly to the right (as if you were leaning the bike to the right). Allow the internal spring to slowly push the piston out 5 or 6 millimeters and push it back in forcefully. Take what ever precautions that you feel are necessary to prevent spilling fluid from the reservoir. Repeat this several times. Reinstall the cylinder and screws to proper torque. You may want to reverse inject one more time to be sure there are no bubbles in the banjo fittings and hose. THIS WORKS and it takes a lot less time than it did to type this. It is the very procedure described in the aprilia workshop manual.

It is also important to optimize the position of the master cylinder when doing this. Turning the bars to right full lock positions the MC in a more horizontal position allowing bubbles to find there way to the reservoir when you push the slave piston in. It might be necessary to loosen or remove the MC clamp to get the cylinder into the best position. Ideally you want the output end of the MC slightly lower than the fitting for the reservoir hose.

There are times, depending on the system layout, when it might be more advantageous to inject fluid into the master cylinder so fluid flows in the normal direction. To do this you must adapt your injection device to the master cylinder reservoir. With any difficult bleeding situation you must be keenly aware of internal passageways, banjo fittings and other possible high spots that might trap air.

Tonyunn · #22 Post by **Tonyunn** » Fri Oct 18, 2013 6:54 pm

Right it's fitted and the kit is fine, the cover fit is perfect and now allows me to continue sorting it without removing as the original set meant you had to do.
I will follow Alads supplied guide and let you know how it goes.

fatboy · #23 Post by **fatboy** » Fri Oct 18, 2013 6:56 pm

Where you fit the bleed nipple depends on how you bleed. If you replenish the fluid in the res carefully (not allowing the level too get too low)you can get away with fitting at the slave end.
When you operate the lever you are forcing fluid downward,air wants to travel upwards so you will have problems at the end of the fluids journey so a bleed nipple makes sense here.
If you have any doubt about remaining air simply hold the lever to the handlebar, remove the slave as described in the KZ method, leave overnight and gravity will now work with you rather than against you.
I find this an easy way out, hope it works for you

Tonyunn · #24 Post by **Tonyunn** » Sat Oct 19, 2013 9:41 am

Right I think it is done, as it turns out my bike had a bleed nipple fitted and I had forgot to check, does the standard set up from the factory have a bleed nipple fitted on the slave?

Anyhoo got it bled as per the instructions from KZ via Alad and it went well.

In the garage pulling the clutch in it is hard to tell how much difference there is, I hope it not a case of the emperor's new clothes.
The kit looks excellent and the ability to sort it even with a belly pan on is one of the main advantages.

#25 Post by **mangocrazy** » Sat Oct 19, 2013 7:57 pm

Looking good, Tony. Everything fits together beautifully.

Shetland Woody · #26 Post by **Shetland Woody** » Sat Oct 19, 2013 8:46 pm

mangocrazy wrote:Looking good, Tony. Everything fits together beautifully.

Agreed, looks really good. I got the different sprocket cover but that one matches the fly wheel cover really well

Tonyunn · #27 Post by **Tonyunn** » Sun Oct 20, 2013 8:41 am

To be honest I bought it because it was new and guaranteed to fit, as I was already spending money I thought I would go for it and as you can see it fits very well and looks fine.

Just been out for an hour and the kit works as it said, actually riding the bike I can say the effort to pull the lever in is much reduced and feels smooth and clean.
Anyone considering getting one of these should do so they work as described and look nice to boot.

fatboy · #28 Post by **fatboy** » Sun Oct 20, 2013 5:20 pm

That does look very good, glad it was not nightmare for you.
just had a week off work, meant to have fitted MPL slave,( Im sure the thunk when engaging 1st is getting worse with the stock item), bronchitis meant I got nothing done aart from sulking

Tonyunn · #29 Post by **Tonyunn** » Mon Oct 21, 2013 7:00 am

As someone who has just done one the following might save you shouting at the bike.
Crack the banjo bolt before removing slave, then nip it back, fit it all and then bleed, it seems to be a pain until you do the bit where you take it off again and then angle it back towards the bike in your hand to the right and then bleed this removes so much of the air that you then begin to feel the piston move and do its job.
If you can get someone in at this point as it is a pain otherwise.