RiderSite.com - Motorcycle Forums

Anything going to catch me out? I take it the enormous allen key needed to undo part 8 is in the tool kit is it?



Undo part 8, undo the pinch bolts, off it comes? How about a torque setting for putting part 8 back on again?

Nope - you'll have to go and buy a big allen key like I did - and go for a 1/2 inch drive - smaller ones aren't man-enough for the job.

I'm sure I posted up about this when I was swapping my forks over.

Torque setting as per workshop manual - Martin Poll's website if you haven't got it

It'll take me longer to find the workshop manual than it will to walk to Halfords for an allen key

Nooj wrote:It'll take me longer to find the workshop manual than it will to walk to Halfords for an allen key

Oh - go on then .....

Upper Plate Fastening Bush: 80 Nm

If you are tempted to undo the rings that hold the steering head in place, be aware that there is a special tightening procedure (torque it up tight, slacken it off and tighten it not so tight) - a search on here will furnish the details - oh and you might need to make a tool to torque it up right.

Have you tried / thought about using a oil sump plug remover for cars.

I have a set I bought for about a tenner and the largest fitted fine and removed the top nut with no problems

http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/5-Piece-Dr ... er-DPK-SET

F9

Yes that's what I tried first ..... see here:

https://www.ridersite.com/viewtopic.ph ... lins+yokes

If you can get one with a half inch drive I think it should be OK - I just bought a half inch drive 14mm allen bit

D-Rider wrote:Yes that's what I tried first ..... see here:

https://www.ridersite.com/viewtopic.ph ... lins+yokes

If you can get one with a half inch drive I think it should be OK - I just bought a half inch drive 14mm allen bit

Geeeeeeeeeeeez that was a job and a half you had there mate!. Mine undid very easily using a standard 1/2" drive ratchet, so there was no way it was torqued up to 80nm. I obviously had a lucky escape.

How did you go on with resolving the head stock bearing issue? I ask because like you I found the top nut is loose but won't come free |(as though its designed to have some play in it) I've checked for any excessive movement or free play in the head bearings and I can't feel any at all so I'm planning on leaving well alone.

Good fun drilling out the security bolt for the ingnition isn't it (NOT!)

F9

Falco9 wrote: How did you go on with resolving the head stock bearing issue? I ask because like you I found the top nut is loose but won't come free |(as though its designed to have some play in it) I've checked for any excessive movement or free play in the head bearings and I can't feel any at all so I'm planning on leaving well alone.

Good fun drilling out the security bolt for the ingnition isn't it (NOT!)

F9

I made a tool for the bearing rings - I took a socket and cut the end of it to fit.
I could really have done with a deeper socket as I had to remove material from inside to get it to reach and then it only just reaches.
Neither of the rings should be loose though.

Eventually I found that the lower yoke I had obtained with the forks was from a new shape Mille - which has worked out fine as I've now fitted one of those nice later-shape "skeleton" top yokes.

Got 'part 8' off, you were right about using a 1/2 inch drive! I put my mega-useful length of gas pipe on the wrench and it undid eventually.

Can't get the top yoke free though, there's nothing left holding it on, but it still won't shift. Don't recall the Fazer being this difficult when I took it to bits.

Nooj wrote:Got 'part 8' off, you were right about using a 1/2 inch drive! I put my mega-useful length of gas pipe on the wrench and it undid eventually.

Can't get the top yoke free though, there's nothing left holding it on, but it still won't shift. Don't recall the Fazer being this difficult when I took it to bits.

It should just slip off. It its any help; the standard falco bars are bolted to the underneath of the top yoke. Each with one small bolt. That would account for it appearing stuck on. But then you're not using standard bars are ya. So im stumped. Pinch bolts definatly loose?

I think the first time I removed it, it might have taken a bit of gentle persuasion with a mallet


..... though, fortunately, not this one



No great big thumps though.

Get yourself a rubber hammer, you can give it plenty of welly without worrying about damaging it. A bit of WD40 on the fork legs can also help.

The other thing to remember is that generally the pinch bolts on the foerk legs do not have to be done up that tight when replacing the top yoke - I haven't checked the torque settings but it is usually around 20 - 30 Nm to avoid damaging the fork legs or the alloy yoke

back_marker wrote: The other thing to remember is that generally the pinch bolts on the foerk legs do not have to be done up that tight when replacing the top yoke - I haven't checked the torque settings but it is usually around 20 - 30 Nm to avoid damaging the fork legs or the alloy yoke

ARE YOU LISTENING MR WILLOPOTOMAS ??

D-Rider wrote: ARE YOU LISTENING MR WILLOPOTOMAS ??

Eyetie monkey metal.. What more can I say!

Gio!! What the hell are you doing in Willopotomas's account?!






hold on..final check.. how do you get the correct pressure in your tyres? Stopwatch or Pressure gauge?