Seat Cowl Panel Gap
Posted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 11:02 pm
No pics to go with this, but thought I’d share and see if there’s any advice/comment.
I went down to the shed about midnight last night with the sole intention of refitting the diode module that I’d lent to OZSLR. I emerged a whole hour later as I got caught up in a “what if” moment, I’m sure I’m not the only one that gets captured like this.
When putting rear cowl back on after replacing the diode I hatched a cunning plan. The gap around the cowl has always bugged me, not enough to keep me awake (well not until last night), but enough to look twice every now and then.
So I pulled the rubber bungs out of the subframe and the cowl and tried that. Predictably this made it a loose fit that would likely wear or break something.
Reducing the thickness of the catch might be a possibility and if I can find a spare one (might have one in a box) I’ll try that. However last night I reckoned flipping the catch over would work so I did. I pulled the wire to the back of the subframe rail to avoid kinking it, but I reckon the lock could be reversed to retain the existing layout.
The cowl wouldn’t close down properly and I couldn’t figure why so I took out the spacers on the top of the lock bolts and retried. Seemed to work better, but the pin didn’t go far enough to engage the lock.
So I took the lock and cowl to the bench to get the fit right. I took the undertray off the cowl and removed the pin (2.5mm allen key IIRC), There’s threadlock on the bolt so I needed to use pliers to hold the pin. I used two little washers to space the pin out and although it just caught the latch I wouldn’t trust it to be completely secure. I put a third washer in (I reckon 2.5 washers would be ideal), but the little bolt is too short to catch a thread, fortunately I found a longer bolt that worked so put it all back together and tried the fit on the bike. Imagine my delight to see that there seemed to be bugger all difference to the original set up!
So muttering under my breath I put it all back the way it was (including threadlock on the little pin bolt). Then I saw the difference, perhaps since it took a while to get from the O/E to the modified and a relatively short time to go back I was better able to assess the difference.
Anyhoo, I’ll try this again when less sleep deprived and take pictures so I can bore you all and make a proper judgment. I think the likely gap reduction will be little so why bother? Because I can OK, if I can’t ride the fecker I’ll bugger about with it!
Anyone tried this? Any one care?
I went down to the shed about midnight last night with the sole intention of refitting the diode module that I’d lent to OZSLR. I emerged a whole hour later as I got caught up in a “what if” moment, I’m sure I’m not the only one that gets captured like this.
When putting rear cowl back on after replacing the diode I hatched a cunning plan. The gap around the cowl has always bugged me, not enough to keep me awake (well not until last night), but enough to look twice every now and then.
So I pulled the rubber bungs out of the subframe and the cowl and tried that. Predictably this made it a loose fit that would likely wear or break something.
Reducing the thickness of the catch might be a possibility and if I can find a spare one (might have one in a box) I’ll try that. However last night I reckoned flipping the catch over would work so I did. I pulled the wire to the back of the subframe rail to avoid kinking it, but I reckon the lock could be reversed to retain the existing layout.
The cowl wouldn’t close down properly and I couldn’t figure why so I took out the spacers on the top of the lock bolts and retried. Seemed to work better, but the pin didn’t go far enough to engage the lock.
So I took the lock and cowl to the bench to get the fit right. I took the undertray off the cowl and removed the pin (2.5mm allen key IIRC), There’s threadlock on the bolt so I needed to use pliers to hold the pin. I used two little washers to space the pin out and although it just caught the latch I wouldn’t trust it to be completely secure. I put a third washer in (I reckon 2.5 washers would be ideal), but the little bolt is too short to catch a thread, fortunately I found a longer bolt that worked so put it all back together and tried the fit on the bike. Imagine my delight to see that there seemed to be bugger all difference to the original set up!
So muttering under my breath I put it all back the way it was (including threadlock on the little pin bolt). Then I saw the difference, perhaps since it took a while to get from the O/E to the modified and a relatively short time to go back I was better able to assess the difference.
Anyhoo, I’ll try this again when less sleep deprived and take pictures so I can bore you all and make a proper judgment. I think the likely gap reduction will be little so why bother? Because I can OK, if I can’t ride the fecker I’ll bugger about with it!
Anyone tried this? Any one care?